Engine rebuild

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Hero6

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
82
Reaction score
16
Location
Florida
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9
I am preparing to do a complete engine rebuild on my 99 5.9 4x4. Bought it recently as a third vehicle, but the compression in the two back cylinders is down to 70-80, so time to pull it out. Block, crank, rods and heads will be going to the machine shop

Looking for any advice on what to check/change/upgrade while I have the engine out and apart.

I know about the plenum issue and will take care of that. Any other modifications/upgrades suggested?

Not looking to hot rod it or anything, just my weekend driver, does have a big lift on it though with 38's

Thanks for any input you have....
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Checks and changes are going to be the same as any other rebuild.

Heads will likely be cracked between the valve seats. Almost a guarantee. Doesn't really cause any running issues but machine shop likely will suggest new heads.

As for upgrades, what kind of goals do you have for it? You say just weekend driver but are you interested in any power figures or just a reliable driver?
 
OP
OP
Hero6

Hero6

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
82
Reaction score
16
Location
Florida
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9
As for upgrades, what kind of goals do you have for it? You say just weekend driver but are you interested in any power figures or just a reliable driver?

Just looking for a reliable driver, BUT, a little extra power wouldn't hurt. I wouldn't mind doing a few fairly inexpensive upgrades, like roller lifters or something similar. About the heads, so if they are cracked between the valve seats, I can still have them reworked and use them? Any reliability issues there? Where there different years/castings that did not have this issue if I need to find another set?

Thanks for your input...
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Factory cam setup is a hydraulic roller with roller lifters.

Heads CAN be reworked but depends what it's worth to you. Won't be any reliability issues with the cracks but talk with your machine shop regarding costs. If you're looking at building the heads a bit, you'll likely come out ahead going with EngineQuest pieces. They use thicker castings so they dont crack, flow more and are decently priced for budget builds.

Really everything is based on your budget. You could do a hipotek throttle body (150ish), hughes airgap (600), pacesetter longtubes (250-450) and a tune and make good fun power, about 260wheel hp on a factory tire/gear combo, but it could cost you nearly 2k. Or just get it tuned and do exhaust and not really be all that far behind the 2k build power wise but quite a bit less in the hole
 
OP
OP
Hero6

Hero6

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
82
Reaction score
16
Location
Florida
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9
Thanks for the information, I am thinking probably a throttle body and exhaust upgrade. Also, I will be replacing the cam, so stock, or are there any others recommended?

Just about got the motor ready to pull out, will try to get it out next weekend and see how bad the internals look.
 

kyle watson

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Posts
80
Reaction score
23
Location
19464 Pottstown Pa
Ram Year
96 ram 1500
Engine
5.9L
if you put a cam in it- just chip tune it. do it right. don't try a cam with out a tune.
I had shorty headers on mine for a long time. loved dum!
when I switched to 3" down tubes the truck ran better with a big muffler on it. in other words trucks seem to like real exhausts, high flow cats a decent muffler and 2 1/2 pipes.
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Just go longtubes and be done with it. Take it from experience, get the coated ones. I should've but i found uncoated for $100 lol. They'll be getting replaced when the motor gets pulled for the new block. Shorty's are pretty much worthless for the most part. Especially with factory y pipe. You can open up the downpipe but you're fighting diminishing returns at that point
 

kyle watson

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2018
Posts
80
Reaction score
23
Location
19464 Pottstown Pa
Ram Year
96 ram 1500
Engine
5.9L
muckin it up again huh?
next your going to tell me how many exhaust ive run and what I have now.
3" pipes on a stock block. like a 22yr old hot dog down a hall way.
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
If i remember correctly, you have pacesetter longtubes and a single 3" magnaflow? Believe that was on another forum.

Here's the thing. These trucks in particular, longtubes are the way to go. With the displacement of the 5.9, tiny 1.5" primary pipes on shorties just hold you back everywhere except right off idle. Then you're squeezing it through a tiny 2" ball collector. That ball collector and the factory downpipes matching it are the biggest restriction to the exhaust. If the log manifolds didn't have that, they wouldn't be TOO horrible. For most, a 1-5/8 primary tube diameter longtube would be the best overall option. Big HCI builds, strokers, nitrous, etc are going to be held back but for most guys, 1-5/8 is perfect. However, there's nothing available in that size. Pacesetter offers 1-3/4 primary longtubes though. And their tube length is quite long even for a longtube header. The length actually bridges the gap between the two diameters. They're actually very well suited to these. In fact, they're so well suited, that AS LONG AS the system after the collectors has the capability to handle the cfm the engine is able to put out, it's not going to make a difference how large you go. Myself, i went with a dual 3" system. There was never any performance sacrifice both in the seat of the pants nor on the dyno. Actually my 1/8 mile time improved a couple tenths. I went with what i did so i don't have to redo it when i finish my new block+vortech blower build.

The performance side of things pretty much ends after the collector unless you decide to restrict it after that point.
 
OP
OP
Hero6

Hero6

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
82
Reaction score
16
Location
Florida
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9
Well, back to the main topic of this thread, got the motor out, torn down and sent to the machine shop. The "crankshaft is toast" as the older gentleman at the machine shop said. I had about 1/8 of an inch of forward/backward play in the crankshaft I noticed when tearing it down. Looks like one of the center throws has a deep wear groove in it where it was rubbing on the main cap area. He said something about it could be an issue with the transmission that caused this....pushing on the crank. Could this be? Also found a crank from Rock Auto, already machined, for $189 shipped. Has anyone had any experience the a crank from Rock Auto? Sounds like a good deal compared to other sources i have seen. Thoughts?

Probably going to stay with a stock camshaft, is there a need to replace the springs and pushrods? Will get new lifters for sure, motor had around 180,000
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Springs arent a horrible idea to replace, factory are pretty weak in general. That being said, plenty of these motors out there with 400k+. Really one of those things that's kind of up to you.

As for the crank wear, hows the harmonic balancer look? Wear like that is more likely a balancing issue
 
OP
OP
Hero6

Hero6

Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
82
Reaction score
16
Location
Florida
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9
Harmonic balancer looked fine, did not see any issues with it.
 
Top