First time truck owner, first time lowering, is it really this labor intensive...?

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No H2O

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I thought about doing this for my A4 a while back and was told that all I needed to do was swap out lowering springs. I never got around to doing it, was waiting for >1 of the shocks/struts to go bad to justify the project.

I looked at this truck lowering video and yikes, this is a major mod:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDLtzfCUxtQ

How labor intensive is lowering a truck, (not to the point of slamming, just a few inches) would like to hear from those who've done it/researched it ... thanks!
 

Bullitt5339

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Yes, it's labor intensive but if you have decent mechanical skills and the right tools, it's not difficult. I did the entire front suspension in a day, that was spindles, springs, shocks and I replaced the upper control arms, one ball joint and both wheel bearings while I was in there.

The rear took another day, but the notch took longer than the actual flip kit and shackles to install. Now that I think about it, a lot of that day was spent waiting on my sons to get here to help me take the bed off so that I could cut for the notch.

Not a bad job at all. You're going to find parts that are worn out, so be prepared to replace them as well. If I were to do it all over again on a truck with some mileage, I would just order new upper and lower control arms and swaybar endlinks before I started in addition to the wheel bearings/hubs and just do everything at one time.
 

Bullitt5339

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Just to add:. My son has an A4 Quattro that we did the suspension on and the truck was a ton easier.
 

Masonrk

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My truck has got just over 30k on it. I'm looking at lowering 2/4.5, should I get the new control arms and wheel bearings while doing it with the truck having so little wear or should I wait? I am gonna be swapping brakes later on too so that will be another time where I'll be neck deep in the thing sooner than later.
 

xtremewlr

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My truck has got just over 30k on it. I'm looking at lowering 2/4.5, should I get the new control arms and wheel bearings while doing it with the truck having so little wear or should I wait? I am gonna be swapping brakes later on too so that will be another time where I'll be neck deep in the thing sooner than later.

I'd wait unless you find an issue.
 
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A buddy of mine said the rear was easy, just place the axles over the leaf springs instead of under ... is this correct? (and I wouldn't have to cut a square into the chassis)
 
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So I'm not going to go through any mechanical changes to lower the truck.
What I'd like to do is get shorter wheels and shorter tires in order to lower a few inches.
The tire shops are saying the manufacturer does not recommend/support this practice.
What isn't clear is whether this practice is not recommended since a heavy load will require the current height or something else performance/mechanically related?
The heaviest load I would put in that bed would be a 700 lb Harley.
Could I shorten the wheels and/or tires and if so, by how much?
 
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After a decent amount of research, there's really no way to painlessly lower the RAM 1500.
The rear axle flip is reasonable cost-wise but then there's the matter of lowering the front.
I looked into lowering keys but can't find any for my regular cab RAM.
 

Drunken Hamster

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After a decent amount of research, there's really no way to painlessly lower the RAM 1500.
The rear axle flip is reasonable cost-wise but then there's the matter of lowering the front.
I looked into lowering keys but can't find any for my regular cab RAM.

Keys? Nah, 2wd are spring+shock front suspension. And, AFAIK, an 04/05/06+ 4wd are also that way.

Your only options are springs or spindles. You can get a McGaughy's 2/4.5 drop kit for in the $300's for the 'economy' drop, which is lowering springs front and a flip kit+lift shackle rear[to bring it back up to 4"/4.5" rather than the 5.5" or so doing a flip on stock shackles will get you], or you can get their 'deluxe' kit instead, which is lowering spindles for the front, and, again, a flip kit+lift shackle for the rear.

If you think you'll ever want to go lower, then you'll need the deluxe kit.

No matter what you do, you'll need new bump stops. I'd recommend keeping it on the 4" setting instead of the 4.5" setting. If you do a notch, either setting will be cleared for full suspension travel. And, obviously, you can go 3/5, 4/6, and possibly 5/7 on a notch that doesn't cut into the bed, but much past that, and it starts to run into the same problem as a 5"+ rear drop does on a stock frame.

Alternatively, if you just want a leveled look, you can get a rear drop shackle that is advertised as a 2" rear drop. It's really 1.5" no matter which one you buy. But if you want a completely leveled, nearly ~2.5" rear drop you can remove your overload spring and that'll do it, but you won't have that safety barrier anymore if you actually overload the rear suspension and could permanently damage your springs. If you remove the overload, you might need a new center bolt that goes through the middle of the springs, as well as possibly needing new U-bolts.

Another way to get a leveled look, even though it's a straight up lift, is to get coil spacer of front [this would be lift keys if you had a pre coil-spring 4wd.]. They come in a variety of sizes, but a 'leveled' size is 2"-3".

HOWEVER. As far as I can discern through all of my research and decision making, the EASIEST most HASSLE FREE way to get an actually leveled look [more than 1.5"] is to actually install a drop shackle ONLY [leaving in the overload] and also installing 1" front coil spacers. Essentially, this will split the difference of a rear level and a front level.

And as such, I call this a 'split level'. And it's, as far as I can tell, the easiest, safest, most hassle-free way of leveling up your truck's suspension without lifting anything past factory height.

Good luck. And, whatever you do, don't be cheap, lol.
 

Tray Burge

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McGaughy's 2/4.5 with their axle flip kit is the way to go, that's how I did mine. Back is easy peassy, but the front spindles were a ***** because they are pressed on so make sure you have the right tools on hand. One I swapped out my stock shocks with upgraded sport shocks I quit bottoming out in the frIMG_20150905_094037_088.jpg ont and it handles like its on rails now. Well worth the trouble.
 

Drunken Hamster

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McGaughy's 2/4.5 with their axle flip kit is the way to go, that's how I did mine. Back is easy peassy, but the front spindles were a ***** because they are pressed on so make sure you have the right tools on hand. One I swapped out my stock shocks with upgraded sport shocks I quit bottoming out in the frView attachment 119505 ont and it handles like its on rails now. Well worth the trouble.

Tire size and roll pan used? Also, personally, how did you get the Vararam on there? Everywhere I look, I can't find a 3g ram kit for it...
 

Tray Burge

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Tire size and roll pan used? Also, personally, how did you get the Vararam on there? Everywhere I look, I can't find a 3g ram kit for it...
Steel roll pan from Summit racing, 22"x10" wheels, and you won't find a 3rd gen Vararam that looks like this, I re-engineered a 4th gen to fit my truck and fabricated the snorkel scoop myself using the lost foam method.
 

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