From 2/4.5 to 4/6 drop

Discussion in 'Lowered' started by badblackram06, Aug 2, 2016.

  1. badblackram06

    badblackram06 Senior Member

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    I have been throwing around the idea of dropping the Ram another 2". Right now for the front I have Mcgaughys drop spindles installed but I also have the drop springs in my shop. I had them installed at one time but the alignment shop I took it to could not align the front end up 100% (uh what?!). After I noticed the inside of the tires wearing after 3 months, I bought the spindles and just swapped the 2 components. After years of thinking about it I want to go ahead and go 4/6. I am just unsure what I need to do to run this setup and it align correctly and the tires clear ok.

    Im on stock 20s and 285/50 nittos. I almost positive Ill have to run different size tires. But havent looked into what sizes will fit.

    What are you guys running to clear and get a good alignment?


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  2. green97nissan

    green97nissan Member

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    275/45/20 all the way around..loaded down my rear tires rub the fender. im sure you could roll the lip or trim it but i didnt want to cuz im narrowing the rear end and bagging it.
    and also they had to add the "camber kit" to get the front in alignment. mines mcgaughys 4/6 with coils and spindles.

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  3. ST-8

    ST-8 Senior Member

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    I have a mc.gaughys 4/6 kit with notch mc.gaughys drop shackelS an trimmed coils up front for a 5/7-7.5 drop. I have a 275/60/17 tire an when it squats it rubs the rear as stated above. My alignment isn't perfect but it's not to bad
     

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  4. jotin

    jotin Senior Member

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    274/40/20 will be your best bet. I second that. My truck is a 3/5 and I'm running 245/45 cause they were free :) lol


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  5. Bullitt5339

    Bullitt5339 Senior Member

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    Mine aligned perfectly with the 4/6 and no camber kit and close enough with 5.5" with no camber kit. All I did was notch the alignment holes a little bit with a file. Took 10 minutes per side while I had the upper control arms off.

    I want to go about 1/2" lower on the front, but I'm going to have to do some metalwork under the fender liners to go any lower, there's a nice sharp edge that could contact the tire on a big bump that would need to be reworked. It'll happen eventually, but 5.5 will have to do for now, I want to get the back a bit lower before I dive full force into the front again.

    I can't help you on tire sizes, I'm running a 265/35/22 but I think I could have went another size up with no problems with rolled and slightly flared fenders.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. sbarron

    sbarron Senior Member

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    Bullitt5339, that truck would be worthless where I live but man oh man is it sexy!!! Well done sir!


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  7. Bullitt5339

    Bullitt5339 Senior Member

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    It's not as bad as it appears. It has more ground clearance still than my stock daily driven car and it has helper bags in the rear so I still use it to haul my Mustang on the trailer and still use it as a truck.

    The only worry for me is hitting a sharp edged pothole and destroying a wheel because of the lack of sidewall.
     
  8. green97nissan

    green97nissan Member

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    if iwas to keep the 4/6 drop and not bag mine..id add helper bags and run the 275/45/20sas long as i kept 20s. ive hit some messed up pot holes and lots of back road stuff and the 45 series has held up. wouldnt go less with a 4/6 drop IMO too much gap from lack of tire with 40series when a 45 works perfect
     
  9. badblackram06

    badblackram06 Senior Member

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    Awesome trucks guys. Thanks for the help. I started on the front this morning and have the drop springs in. Just need to finish up this evening when I get in from work. It wont be going anywhere until I get those tires and c notch in. My 06 has the lower control arm camber adjustment but im sure I'll need to do some slotting on the uppers. We will see though.

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  10. Bullitt5339

    Bullitt5339 Senior Member

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    I'm having relocated upper control arm mounts from Michigan Metal Works installed in mine. I was going to put their camber cure upper control arms but after talking to them I changed my mind. The camber cures fix the camber, but they don't fix the geometry issues after lowering. The relocated uppers fix both, they're less money to buy, but more to have welded in.

    I plan on bagging mine in a couple years as well and the relocated uppers can be used after changing up, the camber control uppers can't be.

    Now that I'm lowered, I'm trying to get the suspension geometry back into check.
     

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