Going Lower

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Booms

Booms

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Those arms are impresive. I'm going to get a set soon

And I got some big ass hands! You don't really get a sense of how big and beefy these things are until you see them in person. Also, got a set of Core 4X4 custom sway bar end links coming. :Big Laugh:
 

JJJones

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hey guys. what is the reason to use the core arms with a 2/4 drop ? thanks for the info. new guy here...
 

HFSJR

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After reading through multiple posts on this fine forum, I decided on a 1/2 drop as well. Crown 2" drop coils for rear should be here Thursday. Will be taking before and after measurements in numerous locations including drive line pinion angles to see what changes and by how much. Pinon angle gauge arrived this past Friday. A ton of good information on this forum, you guys are awesome!
 
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got pics of the arms installed? I'm wondering if they would work with my 4/6 drop

Not yet. Still waiting on my McGaughys deluxe 2/4 drop kit to come in from Matt. :Big Laugh:
 

HFSJR

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Installed Crown Suspension 2" lowering springs for rear. 2018 Ram Express V6 Regular Cab
Tools: 22MM non marring socket (for 20's)
13/16 socket and wrench for shock (removed bottom bolt)
18mm socket and wrench for sway bar end (removed top link, saw this tip in another forum)
Floor jack and 5" jack stands
Took measurements Driver Front: 36 5/8 Driver Rear: 38 7/8
Pass Front: 37 Pass Rear: 39 5/8
Yep, uneven from side to side at factory ride height?

Tried to measure pinion angles, but could not get gauge flat to my satisfaction, don't know that those measurements can be trusted? Before 4.6, 6.1, 3.6

1. Loosen lug nuts.
2. Chock front wheel.
3. Jack truck up under diff using floor jack enough to insert 5" jack stands fully extended.
4. Remove bottom shock bolt and nut (easily pushed back up by hand to reconnect)
5 Remove top sway bar end using 18mm socket and wrench. (no problem reconnecting)
6. Slowly lower floor jack watching brake lines until springs can be removed.
Note: Someone mentioned removing inner fender well, which is not a bad idea, but isn't necessary when removing bottom bolt from shock.
7. Take notice of location of bottom spring in front of drain hole.
8. Take out one spring (doesn't matter, leave one side in for reference)
9. Replace rubber grommet on top of spring.
10. Slide spring into place, line up bottom of spring just in front of drain hole.
11. repeat steps 7-10 for other spring.
12. Slowly jack up diff with floor jack, make sure springs slide into upper location mount.
13. Leave jack stands in place bolt up shock and sway bar ends, go ahead and tighten.
Note: I found that I could adjust the location of springs in relation to drain hole by supporting with jack stands and wheels on. These springs were 3" shorter than factory.
14. Put Wheels back on, semi tighten, align lugs in holes and snug.
15. Jack diff up enough to remove jack stands, return to floor, finish tightening lug nuts.

I jumped up and down on the rear of truck just to make sure everything was kosher.

After measurements: Front did not change
Driver Rear: 37 7/8 vs 38 7/8 1" drop
Pass Rear: 38 3/8 vs 39 5/8 1 1/4" drop
Also measured hitch to ground: Before: 16 3/4" After: 15 3/8 I believe that is 1 3/8" drop?

Still off from side to side by 1/2" not sure what's up with that? Gotta say even with a 1" drop, looks better than factory, but I'm not satisfied with 1" drop. This is just my opinion but if you drive a regular cab truck, skip the 2" lowering springs and get the 3" lowering springs. I may do just that after driving this setup for a while?

Last thing, I said you could adjust the spring location by supporting with 5" jack stands leaving wheels on and shock and sway bar end hooked up. I tried 3 different locations. Didn't matter with drivers side, same measurement regardless of location. Passenger side did make a difference, tried with factory location (which is where it's at now), rotated half way around (small gain in lowering), rotated so bottom coil was just in front of drain hole on front of mount.

Third placement resulted in an extra 1/4" drop. Which makes me think there is something irregular in bottom or top spring mount and would also explain 1/2" difference from side to side? That's why I'm not finished, going to play with that some more. Pretty hot and humid today, spent three hours tinkering today. Replaced springs in about an hour. I'm 62 with a bad back, so it took some effort on my part to jack truck up, support with stands, rotate springs, remove stands, lower, measure.

front drain hole.JPG
 
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Everything going in today... :Big Laugh:
 
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Putting in work...


Putting in work.jpg
 
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McGaughys 2" drop spindles plus a Crown Suspension 1" lowering spring.


Front Suspension.jpg
 
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Me too !
 
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Rear Driver side, Illicit Brackets and Core 4X4 Control arms...


Driver Side.jpg
 
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Passenger side with McGaughys 4" lowering springs...


Passenger with springs.jpg
 
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Custom Core 4X4 sway bar end links...

And You can see the Custom Panhard bar from Core 4X4 hanging down...



Core Sway Bar Links.jpg
 
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QA-1's all up in there...


QA-!s.jpg
 
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I'm going to try to get a picture tonight for comparison. Stay tuned. :Big Laugh:
 

HFSJR

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Don't want to mess up Booms posting, cuz it is freaking awesome! Beautiful day to work on truck, tore everything down to make sure I wasn't losing my mind. How I only got a 1 inch drop from a spring that was 3 inches shorter, don't know? The discrepancy from side to side was mostly due to different tire pressures. Both passenger side tires had 2 pounds more air than drivers side. Evening tire pressure brought the two sides closer together, still off a bit. Going to ride as is awhile.

Before and after pics. U can tell it went down some, look at top of rear tire in after pic, cutout cannot be seen. Still looks better than factory. This was my experience, 2018 Ram 1500 V6, take with a grain of salt. As a side note, shorter shocks and sway bar end links are a good idea as well. The shorter shocks to prevent the springs from dropping out of upper spring perch (someone else mentioned that in another post, I agree). As the truck is lowered in rear the sway bar is angled down as well as the bottom of sway bar end links, shorter links will move bar back up. Will add shocks and sway bar end links after adding 3" drop springs.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Look at Boom's sway bar and end links compared to factory setup!

Before drop.JPG

After Drop.JPG

Sway Bar and end links.JPG
 
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Wild one

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Don't want to mess up Booms posting, cuz it is freaking awesome! Beautiful day to work on truck, tore everything down to make sure I wasn't losing my mind. How I only got a 1 inch drop from a spring that was 3 inches shorter, don't know? The discrepancy from side to side was mostly due to different tire pressures. Both passenger side tires had 2 pounds more air than drivers side. Evening tire pressure brought the two sides closer together, still off a bit. Going to ride as is awhile.

Before and after pics. U can tell it went down some, look at top of rear tire in after pic, cutout cannot be seen. Still looks better than factory. This was my experience, 2018 Ram 1500 V6, take with a grain of salt. As a side note, shorter shocks and sway bar end links are a good idea as well. The shorter shocks to prevent the springs from dropping out of upper spring perch (someone else mentioned that in another post, I agree). As the truck is lowered in rear the sway bar is angled down as well as the bottom of sway bar end links, shorter links will move bar back up. Will add shocks and sway bar end links after adding 3" drop springs.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Look at Boom's sway bar and end links compared to factory setup!

View attachment 130086

View attachment 130087

View attachment 130089

Guys are making the rear swaybars off the coil sprung 2500's work on the 1500's. At 1" diameter it's even beafer then the Hellwig swaybar at 7/8" diameter.Supposedly it's a great option to the Hellwig if you can find a used 2500 swaybar for cheap
 

mondo

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Those look good. I didnt see the rear track bar listed on their site?
 
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Before with the 1•2 drop....


Truck1•2.jpg
 
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