Heater treater doors

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JAMMAN

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You have to be kidding me. Hack in to your heater doors with a saw or dremel, saw your center support in half and bend it back, replace the doors, drill a hole and screw your center support back together, use copious amounts of duct tape to hold the resulting fragments together.

Huh?

I looked at the tutorial for complete heater core and evaporator replacement... looks like an easier and cleaner route.

Can anyone explain the advantages to me of dissecting my heater/ac box in to little pieces and taping it back together like Frankenstein rather than spending a few more hours and removing it correctly besides the extra time?
 

SilverStreak88

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You have to be kidding me. Hack in to your heater doors with a saw or dremel, saw your center support in half and bend it back, replace the doors, drill a hole and screw your center support back together, use copious amounts of duct tape to hold the resulting fragments together.

Huh?

I looked at the tutorial for complete heater core and evaporator replacement... looks like an easier and cleaner route.

Can anyone explain the advantages to me of dissecting my heater/ac box in to little pieces and taping it back together like Frankenstein rather than spending a few more hours and removing it correctly besides the extra time?
0 advantages... evacuate the A/C system and pull the HVAC box out and do it right AND DO IT ONCE. I went with Dorman doors when I pulled my box and they're far superior to the OEM. I'll upload pics I'd needed to prove that pulling the dash and HVAC box is the best route.

Sent From 1 of Many Samsung Devices
 

Core-Lokt

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Yeah, IDK why it's intimidating to pull the dash but OK to butcher.

That said, I did the doors & cores in December. And I did it the right way by pulling the dash, but I did use HT doors. I didn't want any more plastic door failures.
 
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JAMMAN

JAMMAN

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0 advantages... evacuate the A/C system and pull the HVAC box out and do it right AND DO IT ONCE. I went with Dorman doors when I pulled my box and they're far superior to the OEM. I'll upload pics I'd needed to prove that pulling the dash and HVAC box is the best route.

Sent From 1 of Many Samsung Devices

Groovy what I thought. AC is already evacuated as I need to replace the pump so I had them do it when I did my heads just never got around to replacing the pump yet. Figured why get it working if it was only going to blow cold on the left LOL.

I like the metal doors and will buy the HT doors.

One more thing, I have no problem with my heater core or evap, both seemed to be working correctly. Should I replace one or the other anyway since "i'll be in there" ? I bet if you had to disassemble it a second time it would go like 3 times faster though :)
 

SilverStreak88

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Groovy what I thought. AC is already evacuated as I need to replace the pump so I had them do it when I did my heads just never got around to replacing the pump yet. Figured why get it working if it was only going to blow cold on the left LOL.

I like the metal doors and will buy the HT doors.

One more thing, I have no problem with my heater core or evap, both seemed to be working correctly. Should I replace one or the other anyway since "i'll be in there" ? I bet if you had to disassemble it a second time it would go like 3 times faster though :)
Look at your evap core, they usually get plugged up with gunk on the passenger side of them. If it's got crap stuck to the fins replace it, you can't clean the fins, I already tried. If you're cool spending the $ on the heater go for it, I guess shyed away because they didn't offer a solution for my dual zone climate control.

Sent From 1 of Many Samsung Devices
 

JPT

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I had a shop do mine. They still didn't pull the full system out because of the steering. They removed the full dash, cut the center part and welded it back after. It did save about 3-4 hours of extra labor by doing this. I'm not sure if it is different on different years, but to remove the tube cross member you have to remove the steering column (or let it hang).

I gave the shop the option to go which ever they though was easier, they decided to cut, and reweld.

Here are some pictures:
011AB840-C3E0-4734-AF45-2CECDCA24570_zpsvprnlo0w.jpg
E6E98E60-5B8E-4B00-BA4B-BF1D48D8699E_zpsfdj3exid.jpg
D2D5CF6C-6D83-4AB7-978A-65E7C6C0E33B_zps5qwpkq2n.jpg
B0B11C85-8B51-4CC1-91A4-95A421DD5201_zps7wheluhb.jpg
 

Core-Lokt

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Groovy what I thought. AC is already evacuated as I need to replace the pump so I had them do it when I did my heads just never got around to replacing the pump yet. Figured why get it working if it was only going to blow cold on the left LOL.

I like the metal doors and will buy the HT doors.

One more thing, I have no problem with my heater core or evap, both seemed to be working correctly. Should I replace one or the other anyway since "i'll be in there" ? I bet if you had to disassemble it a second time it would go like 3 times faster though :)
I would. You already know the HT doors are twice the cost of (say) Dorman doors at Auto Zone, so spend some more $ for prevention and do it first-class. I got Spectra Premium cores and they were ~$100 for both. It's not going to indemnify you against defective cores, but it is comforting to know they're new and done.

When I did it, I also replaced the orifice tube; another $20 worth of prevention while the system is evacuated.
 
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xb1230

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Before you reload the system it is recommended to replace the accumulator and add in a dryer/filter unit. It prevents internal system corrosion and contamination. I'm sure the specialty shop where you will get it reloaded will tell you as well...
If they don't, I'd question their work.
 

jwheeler

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I had a shop do mine. They still didn't pull the full system out because of the steering. They removed the full dash, cut the center part and welded it back after. It did save about 3-4 hours of extra labor by doing this. I'm not sure if it is different on different years, but to remove the tube cross member you have to remove the steering column (or let it hang).

I gave the shop the option to go which ever they though was easier, they decided to cut, and reweld.


Saved about 3-4 hours labor. Mind if I ask how many hours they charged you for that?
 

JPT

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Saved about 3-4 hours labor. Mind if I ask how many hours they charged you for that?

I think it was about 4 hours, but it took them longer. They do all the work I don't do myself.
 

jwheeler

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I think it was about 4 hours, but it took them longer. They do all the work I don't do myself.



As long as they gave you a good deal that's all right. That's only about a 4 hour job to do it properly. 5 if you don't work at a dealer and do them all the time.
 

Bigdog9598

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took me a long time to decide to pull the dash for blend/mode door repair. I found a YouTube video, guy shows you every bolt, nut, clip, very detailed on removal.
i went with Blend door USA also included to drive gear as well. yes pretty $$ all aluminum as well as the drive gears.
replaced both cores, i believe the "already in there" philosophy.
 
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