How big of a drop hitch should I get?

[14hemiexpress]

The B&W stow and go is worth every penny. I have a 3in drop one on my work truck and I have the tri ball set up and it's perfect haven't come across a trailer that I haven't been ready to pull.

 

[S0CAL]

The B&W stow and go is worth every penny. I have a 3in drop one on my work truck and I have the tri ball set up and it's perfect haven't come across a trailer that I haven't been ready to pull.

Got a similar lift as I do? I think I need 5 or 7 to be safe.

 

[14hemiexpress]

Got a similar lift as I do? I think I need 5 or 7 to be safe.

My work truck is a stock gmc z71. For a truck that's around 4 inches taller than stock a 5-7 is what will be needed. I probably would look more towards the 7in

 

[S0CAL]

My work truck is a stock gmc z71. For a truck that's around 4 inches taller than stock a 5-7 is what will be needed. I probably would look more towards the 7in

Cheers!

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

I’m running a Superlift 4/3 Lift on 35’s and I need a 10” drop to get my 5x10 utility trailer to sit level

 

[S0CAL]

I’m running a Superlift 4/3 Lift on 35’s and I need a 10” drop to get my 5x10 utility trailer to sit level

Man that helps thanks.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Man that helps thanks.

Not the best pic but this is using the full 10”. Even without a nose heavy load 10” is barely enough

 

[gofishn]

Generally, most trailers are set up for a 17-19" ball height. Although some of the newer travel trailers run higher.
Best course of action is to set the trailer to be towed to perfectly level, then measure the height, off the top of the tongue, where the ball will fit under.
Keeping in mind, the trailer tongue weight should drop the truck, ever so slightly.
then measure the insert height of your truck.
Finally, deduct the height of the trailer, from your trucks insert height, to get your trucks specific drop.

regarding trailers: it is usually best to shoot for a 10-15% tongue weight but never go below 7%. This will help to insure the trailer will not attempt to "lift" off the ball, when going over road conditions that would create such an action. Sway is an issue known to most, but few realize that improper tongue weight can not only cause sway, but also, cause the trailer to come off or place to much stress on the trailers front frame work or trucks rear suspension.

Can;t tell you the number of times I have seen the front of trailers obviously showing too much tongue weight and folks did not know what they were seeing.

Rounded out trailer jack stand holes, bent or stress cracked frame work on trailer tongues, etc.

Don't be afraid to move the trailers axle(s), f need be, to stay within limits.
Specially for boats and such.

Just 2 weeks ago, my boy and I had to help a guy whose Lund boat and generic trailer had come off his truck. on a main drag. Guy was less than a 1mile from the interstate he was heading for, when it happened. Boat was position, on the trailer, for ease of access to enter the boat, while it was on the trailer, versus properly positioned for weight distribution upon the trailer.

With the trailer sitting on the roadway, he could not lift it, high enough, to get the trailer jack to swing around and lift the trailer. once lifted though, the trailer moved easily and was held easily too. Of course, that should have been a red flag. Who expects to hold a boat and trailer, casually with one hand, by the tongue?

Few minutes, at my house, adjusting the winch position and bunks solved his problem. Darn boat was actually hanging off the rear of the trailer too far and the bunks were much to high.

Sorry for long post but hope it helps you out.

EDIT:
May as well add some more, for the boat owners who read this. No matter the boat type or the trailer. Boats should literally load themselves. regardless of the boat ramp angle or the wind conditions. If they do not or the boat struggles to get loaded, the trailer is not set up correctly. 12ft pond pounders to 50ft Baja''s. it don't matter. teh boat should be easy to load.

 

[TRCM]

Boat loading ease is more dependent on experience and the trailer position in relation to the water than the bunk or winch stand position in relation to the axles.

 

[crash68]

Boat loading ease is more dependent on experience and the trailer position in relation to the water than the bunk or winch stand position in relation to the axles.

^^^^ this
I don't know how many times I've watched people struggle to get their boat on and off their trailers. It's like they don't want to get the truck tires wet...lol. Most ramps I've gone to, you back in till the water is touching the bottom lug nuts on the rear wheels(of the truck). Then the boat practically floats right up to the winch stand, easily winched on.

 

[TRCM]

On mine, which is a drive on trailer, that would not be enough (lug nuts in the water).

My trailer has 4 bunks, 2 center ones that are long, and 2 outer ones that are short. If I back all the way in to wet the bunks, then pull out until the forward end of the outer bunks are just breaking the water, the boat will slide on perfectly. That puts my tires about 3/4 under the water.

And yes, I've seen and helped (or at least tried to, some people are just jerks) many at the ramps, from loading/launching their boats, to even backing up the trailers.


I have a simple way to learn to back a trailer using the outside mirrors. No special hand position, no special way to move, or anything. Just drive like normal, and watch the trailer in the outside mirrors.....if the trailer is starting to get close to trouble (hitting something) in the mirror, turn towards it IN THE MIRROR. None of this turn this way or that, if the trailer is about to hit something in the drivers side mirror, the turn to the driver side of the truck just like you would make a left hand turn.....if it's the passengers side, do the same, turn right.

This will force the trailer to move the opposite way just like you need. I have used this method for boat trailers, campers, gooseneck equipment trailers...anything pulled behind a vehicle.

Once you get use to it some, and are confident in your judgement of the trailer width, you can only use the drivers side mirror. Like my bass boat, it is ~8' wide trailer and all, and the spot I park it in is 11' wide. Since I know how wide the trailer is, as long as I keep the driver side 1' away from hitting anything, I know the passengers side will be clear and I don't even have to check it.

 

[crash68]

On mine, which is a drive on trailer, that would not be enough (lug nuts in the water).

I was referring to the rear wheels of the truck not the trailer. The trailer is completely submerged.
(I edited my original post)

 

[gofishn]

Boat loading ease is more dependent on experience and the trailer position in relation to the water than the bunk or winch stand position in relation to the axles.

I disagree. while no one can load a boat with a completely submerged trailer ro one not even in the water, all too often inexperienced folks think it is all about trailer position , in the water, when the trailer is set up completely wrong.

I have set up many trailers, for guys who use your argument, then had the guys wife load the boat with trailer darn near underwater, and also, with trailer barely getting water over the last 2 feet of bunks. in each instance, the boat much easier than it had prior.

either case, it is moot, as both stated positions are simply opinion.
each of us must make up our minds.

 

[TRCM]

No argument....simple fact.

What you are saying may work for larger salt water boats where you have more freeboard & deadrise to work with, and where boat position isn't as critical, but not for bass boat style hulls.

I know what position is required to load my boat properly with ease, and moving the trailer in or out of the water by more than 12" from what I described will give you fits loading it. Been doing it for about 10 yrs on this boat/trailer, and I've seen & dealt with all kinds of situations while loading & unloading.

You can maintain your opinion, but I see no way for the trailer to be 'set up' any different and still do it's job of properly supporting the hull and of properly aligning the boat as it is loaded and unloaded, and finally, cradling it while it is transported.

The relationship between the winch stand and the bunks can not change or you will risk damage to the boat hull by the weight not properly being supported, especially at the rear where having the boat hang off the bunks can induce a hook in the hull.

Changing the winch stand and bunks together to change the relation between them and the axle will only change the tongue weight, and will not affect how it loads or unloads....except I would have to walk farther out on the tongue to get to it.

I often fish alone, and I unload or load my rig by myself, and from the time I start backing down the ramp til the time I am parked and walking back to the boat is generally 5 min or less. Only thing that would make it faster is if I had one of them remote controlled trolling motors that will bring the boat back to me, so I'd not have to worry about unloading and then tying it off to the dock before parking, I could just dump it and go.

Again, you can keep your opinion, but to hint that I am inexperienced, and that you are right and I am wrong because of the statement I made, is just asinine.

Have a good evening sir !

 

[quickfix27]

Cheers!

@SoCal just got a similar lift Zone 4/3 with Fox 2.0, Bils @ 0.7 with 35s (295/65R20) and looking at the B&W 7" adjustable drop.

I measured about 24" from ground to the top of my receiver opening. My current trailer coupler sits around 18.5" level. That puts me right around 5.5" drop -- but doesn't account for sag, etc.

Did you end up going with the 7in?

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Hitc...01BYHM91A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[S0CAL]

@SoCal just got a similar lift Zone 4/3 with Fox 2.0, Bils @ 0.7 with 35s (295/65R20) and looking at the B&W 7" adjustable drop.

I measured about 24" from ground to the top of my receiver opening. My current trailer coupler sits around 18.5" level. That puts me right around 5.5" drop -- but doesn't account for sag, etc.

Did you end up going with the 7in?

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Hitc...01BYHM91A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I actually went 5" because my rear bumper weighs as much as stuffed burrito.

 

[quickfix27]

Do you happen to know your height to the inside top of your receiver hitch? Are you happy with the 5"?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[S0CAL]

Do you happen to know your height to the inside top of your receiver hitch? Are you happy with the 5"?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I can certainly get those measurements but they won't be that useful to you, I fear. With the heavy bumper, the aftermarket 2" receiver, the fact that I am already 3/4 nose high ( I am taking the truck from 6/3 to 6/5. I am nose high, and still have my 37s rubbing so I have to crank my 6112 Bilsteins to 2.6 and swap rear coils and shocks to level out the rake). Truck has a load right now too so I won't have it emptied until midweek. Hopefully this 5" hitch will still work for me when I make these adjustments!

 

[quickfix27]

Wow! No worries. That's quite the project. I'm leaning towards going with the 7" to give me flexibility - want this to be the last hitch I ever buy. Though 5" sounds like it might work fine too when I consider squat.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[TRCM]

If you want it to be the last ball mount/insert you ever buy, make sure you get a good adjustable in the range you think you will need, then add an inch on either end.

That way you can tow anything.

For me, it's a LOT cheaper to get several ball mounts than to spend that much on an adjustable tho, even considering the main ball mount & ball I use ran me almost 90 bucks.