how hot is too hot?

Discussion in 'Towing & Hauling' started by moondogmike, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. moondogmike

    moondogmike Junior Member

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    Okay so heres an update, today I replaced the thermostat replaced the temp gauge sensor and burped the engine. It seems like everything is working, but I have one question, can a temp sensor be bad right out of the box? Everything seems good tstat is cycling, nothing seems overheated but the gauge is reading 200+.Ive got another new sensor gonna put it in when it cools off...
     
  2. crazzywolfie

    crazzywolfie Senior Member

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    you don't need to bypass the rad trans cooler. i would personally advise leaving it and just adding an additional cooler on the line returning to the pan. the bottom of your rad where the stock trans cooler is located stays fairly cool compared to the upper rad where all the heat is.


    it is possibly to have a bad temp sensor out of the box with how cheap things are made but are you sure you are replacing the right temp sensor? i am pretty sure there should be 2 temp sensor on your engine. 1 for the gauge and 1 for the computer. the one for the gauge usually only has 1 wire to the connector
     
    Gr8bawana and gofishn like this.
  3. moondogmike

    moondogmike Junior Member

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    Yes its the sensor with one prong.
     
  4. crazzywolfie

    crazzywolfie Senior Member

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    well i don't know what your thoughts on it are but you could install an aftermarket temp gauge if you don't trust the sending units or the stock gauge. they are usually fairly cheap and pretty accurate. i like knowing my engines exact temp since i got electric fans
     
  5. gofishn

    gofishn Senior Member

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    You burp a system by leaving the cap 'off' and allowing the thermostat to cycle through, a few timesd, and then adding more fluid. bascially, jsut isnure you get all teh air out of the system.

    what is your thermostat temp setting? before putting a thermostat on a vehicle, place it in pan of water, on your kitchen stove, along with a thermometer, to insure it is set properly adn functioning as designed.

    10-15 degree above thermostat setting is not unusual,for engine temps, but should drop down, once system performs and exchange of fluids, form radiator to the engine.

    remember, whatever temperature the thermostat is set to open, the fluid must pass from teh engine, to the radiator, then the radiator fluid, which is now cooled, must pass into teh engine, so an engine running slightly higher than the thermostat setting is to be expected. again, the engine should cool down rather quickly though.

    if not, my concern would be blocked passage ways within the engine, not allowing a complete fluid exchange or restricting the fluid exchange OR blocked passage ways within the radiator itself.

    Placing a thermometer in the raditor, with cap off is another good way to see jsut what teh temp is, of teh fluid coming out of the engine. and seeing what the temp is, of teh fluid right before it goes back into teh engine. either the flauid is not doing a complete fluid exschange or soemthign is preventing it from cooling properly while in the radiator.
     
  6. DazSpaz

    DazSpaz Junior Member

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    What problem are you facing when you run your engine with rad cap off and it overflows the rad cap opening?
     
  7. alanack6795

    alanack6795 Member

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    Make sure you buy a coolant temp sensor from the dealer or moparpartsoverstock . Parts house sensors are junk.

    235 is the max I would like, and that means it's time to pull over.

    How much were towing? Speed? Outside temp? AC on? All these variables are very important

    Make sure the clutch fan is locking.
    No electric fan in the world pull pull more air than a good clutch fan.

    In my 12v it roars on at ~215 and drops the temperature fast. You can't miss it at 2K it sounds like a helicopter at take off. On a gas motor I can only imagine it being much more noticeable
     
  8. moondogmike

    moondogmike Junior Member

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    Okay, so hello everyone. Ive been gone for a while due to some health issues. But feeling alot better so lets continue. I have done everything I can to figure out why it runs hot. I did notice when i head to work in the morning, it doesn't get much past 185 or so. that's about where it used to run. Of course its much cooler in the morning and I really don't want to only drive and tow in the morning. I really need some help, I'm lost, still runs about 195 regular driving as soon as a/c is on it kicks up to past 200 and I have not towed my trailer since last year. Btw the trailer weighs about 8000 lb. So weight is not the problem. any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly apreciated thanks...
     
  9. dudeman2009

    dudeman2009 Senior Member

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    It might be fairly simple, but have you checked to make sure the return radiator line isn't collapsing under load? It's supposed to have a spring like thing in there to stop it from collapsing, but they can break apart and fail. Also, have you checked to make sure the water pump inlet isn't clogged and the water pump itself is pumping properly?

    If neither of those two things is the problem, i'd look at getting a bottle of radiator flush and running it through then seeing what comes out. Its not uncommon for a sand like substance to build up in the bottom of the engine and solidify partially or fully blocking some water passages.

    Also, have you ruled out insufficient radiator operation? Is the return line still hot as all get out or is it cool?
     
  10. DodgeTx

    DodgeTx Senior Member

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    Do you still have your Trans Check Valve? That would overheat my lowered dodge. On my Flatbed, with a 1200lb wrecker unit on it I deleted the Trans check valve completely and still see temps of 210* area when idling to load a vehicle. Rad temp goes slightly higher.

    Also if your heater core is laking could mean less coolant in system than is needed, causing slight overheating.

    Anything under or at halfway on the temp gauge should be fine
     

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