How to add remote start to 2017 Ram

[duunoit]

Did you just have to buy the wire or the whole kit?

 

[STecoD]

Did you just have to buy the wire or the whole kit?

I bought the whole kit. It was $240 shipped from Amazon. It had an additional antenna that goes above the headliner and the other parts which I believe are needed to complete this. I know my cable was taped behind the hood latch but drops out somewhere in the harness before it gets to the bcm under the dash.


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[Moab_Rockstar]

Again, the kit for 2015 and 2017 trucks are completely different. There's no external antenna on 2017 trucks. If you have a 2017 truck with RKE, you already have the correct RF Hub. If you have a 2015 truck, the RF Hub has to be replaced, because remote start is specific to the hardware.

If you are missing the wire from the front connector to the BCM, but have the latch harness, you can populate the wiring that's missing, but the trick is finding the right pin for the BCM. There is a wiring repair kit listed a few pages back for the body side of the front end module connector, http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=215776
You'd want one of the 1.5mm kits, but there is no indication if the pin for just that connector is in the kit, or both sides. The hood latch wiring repair kit for example has the pins to populate the latch connector, as well as the front end module connector.

The connector repair kit site has the C1/A connector listed for BCM, but states no repair kit is available. http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=215368

 

[Moab_Rockstar]

Keep in mind, I wrote this back before a Mopar kit was available for 2017. Also, wiring schematics available at the time indicated that wiring would be populated between the BCM and Front Module. Since then, more wiring variations have been introduced, and there is now a 2017-specific kit available from Mopar.

Before trying to do this update, I hope that people will read this thread and inspect their wiring to make sure everything is in place. If you have all your wiring, my parts list at the beginning can save you a few bucks. If you DON'T have the wiring, the best thing to do is just buy the Mopar kit.

 

[LiqTenExp]

I got pretty far with my install on a 2017 Express today but got stuck at the final step. I have pins 5/6 populated on one side with purple wires, the mating side though is a male pin. Anyone have the part number for this pin?

 

[LiqTenExp]

They look like they are Metra-pack 150 series terminals (1.5mm). Going to try to order some and see how it works out.

 

[Moab_Rockstar]

The front end male connector is a Yazaki PN 7282-9152-40
https://www.smdinc.com/pdf/yesc_yesc_kaizen_catalog.pdf



I know Nexus Electronics in California has them, but they have a minimum order of 50. They're only 28-29 cents each, but what are you going to do with 50? I think I still have some 1.5 male and female pins somewhere. Sometime this week I'll try to find out what I have, possibly put an ad in the seller forum.

 

[Moab_Rockstar]

These appear to be the female pins for the BCM connector signals.

13627886 1.2mm 20-18 gauge
13627884 1.2mm 22-20 gauge

So far I'm only finding reels. Nexus has lowest I've seen so far. $18 for 200 of the 20-18 gauge. $11 for 50 of the 22-20 gauge.

 

[Thorvald]

My Mopar kit should arrive tomorrow so we’ll see how it goes. Price wasn’t too bad.

I plan to simply swap the insides of the keychain remotes (since the PCB already has the buttons), saves getting dealer to program the new set.

Cheers
Tim

 

[duunoit]

You'll still have to have them do "Replace RFH" procedure.

 

[Jimmy07]

You'll still have to have them do "Replace RFH" procedure.

Correct, but he doesn’t have to pay them to program the set of keys that came in the kit. All he has to do is take the rubber overlays with the “2x” button on the new fobs, and put them on his old fobs.

 

[duunoit]

I would think they would program the two other fobs for him since they'll probably get him for 1/2 or 1 hr labor anyway. I'd ask.

 

[Thorvald]

I'll bring them just in case but I've already swapped over the "overlay".

Mine has the existing wiring harness as well. I may just see if I can use that by splicing (solder and heatshrink) the pins onto the existing harness if it's incompatible at the other end. Seems crazy they would put the harness in and not finish it.

 

[Thorvald]

Ok pulled everything apart and sure enough, on pin 11 is a wire.

The existing harness under the hood is a Purple and Purple/Blue.

The wire I found in pin 11 is a Purple/Blue.

Grabbing meter and will tone this out. If it's good and the Purple/Blue goes to ground... why the heck would they want us to replace the harness?

Cheers

 

[Thorvald]

Voila... sure enough, the Purple wire is straight to ground and the Purple/Blue goes from Pin 11 of the connector we need straight to the existing hood switch harness. Should be no need to run a cable.

I'll replace the hood latch, plug in the cable and then book a service appointment to get it programmed.

Cheers
Tim

 

[Thorvald]

Hood latch in, factory harness connected. Ground reconnected and truck started fine...

Tried the button just for a laugh.... *sigh* of course did not work.

Time to call the dealer.

Cheers
Tim


P.S. Ignore Mopar's instruction to remove the hood latch pull and the diagnostic ODB connector... you don't need to. Just remove the two screws and pull the panel off and lay it to the side, there is enough cable harness there to get it out of the way.

 

[Moab_Rockstar]

why the heck would they want us to replace the harness?

They made the kit to be as universal as possible. Since the additional wire harness variations were added, that one kit has everything for everyone now. If a dealer were to install it, the could just depopulate the connector, or a more crafty tech would just put the correct terminals on the wire and populate into the Front End Connector for a more factory end result.

 

[Thorvald]

Well no luck with dealer, the supposedly did everything and it doesn't work. Going to temp. run the included harness on the outside and see if that resolves it. If it doesn't then I know they screwed up... if it does, then the factory harness is at fault.

 

[Thorvald]

Sure enough no luck with the harness with kit. Back at dealer ... hopefully they figure out what they must have done wrong with programming...

 

[Thorvald]

Ok now I am being told the system won’t accept the PIN and the hub is not seeing the signal...

Tech is saying it’s the wrong kit... they are checking system now for a different part number.