How to Install coil spring lowering kit (Ground Force)

Discussion in '4th Gen DIY' started by Trupiano, Dec 10, 2011.

  1. Trupiano

    Trupiano Registered User

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    Ok dudes,

    This guide is for any coil spring drop (front and rear) and install of rear shocks. This drop kit was Ground Force's 2/3 inch lowering kit, Drop Part # 9984 for 2009-2011 Hemi Quad cab/Crew cabs. Lets begin...:pedobear:
    Took me 6 hours to complete this at the base hobby shop with all the tools I would need... and that was with taking all the pictures for this guide, and having no help. I did this 100% on my own. (I don't recommend that)

    Here's the Ground Force drop instructions page for page, just in case you need them. (Will upload later)

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    1. Start by measuring each corner of the truck from the top of the tire, to the top of the fender. Record this. Mine was 4" in the front and 7 1/8th" in the rear.

    2. Jack the truck by the frame. Make sure it's securely on there. You don't want your drop to look like this.
    [​IMG]

    3. Try to keep the lift only approx 4-6 inches off the ground to help with removal/installation.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    Rear Removal/Installation

    4. Place a floor jack under the rear axle(differential) for support. You'll need this a little later on.

    [​IMG]

    5. Remove the rear tires, then the wheel well liners. You'll need them removed for the next step... TRUST ME! It's only 8-10 small bolts, then just pull like hell and it'll come out.

    [​IMG]

    6. Remove the rear shocks. I believe this was a 19mm socket. The lower shock mount bolt was easy to remove, while the upper was hard as hell. The upper inner nut is almost impossible to get out without "Shady Maintenance":naughty:. The shock mount is recessed in making it impossible to get a socket squarely onto the nut, and the bed rails leave almost no room for a wrench or ratchet. I used a small wratched with the socket and just smashed it onto the top part of the nut, then used an air impact gun on the bolt head. The nut will spin inside the socket a lil, cause you can't get the socket onto it squarely... but put enough pressure and it'll come off.

    [​IMG]

    7. Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor line plastic clip from the brake assembly so it wont be in the way. Don't over extend the brake lines, or this wire or you'll be sorry. So watch it when your lowering the truck later to remove the coils, cause it'll get close!

    8. Remove the lower sway bar connecting hardware from the sway bar end link, and also it's mount, then set the them aside.

    [​IMG]

    9. Now, carefully lower the floor jack under the rear differential till your coils either fall out, or you have enough room to pull them out. BE CAREFUL TO WATCH YOUR BRAKE LINES/WIRES ON BOTH SIDES WHEN LOWERING THE FLOOR JACK, AS THEY WILL HANG, AND COULD POSSIBLY RIP OUT!

    [​IMG]

    10. Save the rubber pads and the insulators that were on top of your coil springs. Look how were installed, so you can reinstall them the same way on your new coils.

    11. Replace the bump stops. This is easy, no explanation necessary.

    [​IMG]

    12. If your kit came with coil sleeves, install them on the the new rear coils starting at the top. (end of the coil with top wraps/ Ground force logo will face up) They will only cover half the coil spring. These help with any noise or squeeks once the coils have the trucks weight on them.

    [​IMG]

    13. Put the stock rubber pad/insulater onto the new coils. Make sure they the top coil ends are lined up perfectly with the insulator pad, just like they were with the original springs. Should be an impression from the old coils.

    14. Put the coils onto the lower sprin seat, twist them a lil to get them to seat if needed, and ensure the upper insulator pad is still seated properly.

    [​IMG]

    15. Carefully jack up the axle with the floor jack to seat the springs, stopping after every couple inches to check the seating.

    16. Install the new shocks, same as the old ones were removed.

    17. DRILLING PART! New sway bar mount needs to be drilled. Measure and mark with a punch 13/16" in from the rear, and 1 5/8th" from the top. Then drill a 1/2" hole for on both sides of the truck for the sway bars to mount to.

    [​IMG]

    18. Mount the sway bar end links with the new spacer supplied, on the outside of the new mount hole. Then install the lower sway bar end link onto the sway bar, but this time connect the bushing from the outside, vs. the inside like it was originally installed.

    (PIC LATER)

    19. Look over everything you've touched, and make sure they're torque down "good'n'tight", and everything is installed correctly.

    20. Install the rear wheel well liners, and wheels.

    [​IMG]

    21. Lower the floor jack and remove from the area.

    See next post for Front Install! :pedobear:
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2011
  2. Trupiano

    Trupiano Registered User

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    Front Removal/Installation

    Continuing from step 3 on the previous post... :pedobear:
    4. Remove the front tires.

    5. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack or jack stand.
    [​IMG]

    6. Remove the sway bar connecting nut/bushing from the sway bar, and disconnect the end link.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    7. Remove the tie rod hardware/bushing and disconnect. Some PB Blaster and a rubber mallet should work wonderfully!
    [​IMG]

    8. Remove the upper ball joint hardware/bushing, and disconnect. Same way as above, PB Blaster and rubber mallet. Ensure you attach the upper part of the spindle to a point on the truck with either a zip tie, hangar, or safety wire. Keeping it from hanging on the brake lines is very important!
    [​IMG]

    9. Remove the anti-lock brake sensor wire clip from the spindle.

    10. Loosen and remove the lower strut mounting bolt. If the bolt is stuck, use a rubber mallet and some PB Blaster, and wiggle or shake the spindle to aid in the removal.

    11. Remove the 3 upper nuts attaching the strut to the frame. Then remove the strut assembly.
    [​IMG]

    12. Using a coil spring separator, remove the OEM coil spring, and reinstall the new drop spring. Ensure the drop coil spring is installed correctly, (ground force logo up) and the upper strut rubber isolator and spring seat are properly installed and seated.
    [​IMG]

    13. Reinstall onto the truck the same way it was removed, and torque the 3 upper nuts and lower mount bolt TIGHT! IMPORTANT: If the upper 3 threads aren't aligned with the lower strut mount, place the lower part of the strut in a vice, and using a pry bar or large screw driver through 2 of the 3 threaded studs, rotate the upper part of the strut till it is aligned with the lower mount. Then remove from the vice and install back onto the truck.

    14. Reinstall the upper ball joint hardware and torque.

    15. Reinstall the outer tie rod hardware and torque 55 ft. lbs.

    16. Reinstall the sway bar connecting links to the sway bar and torque 27 ft. lbs.

    17. Reinstall the brake line clip back onto the spindle.

    18. Check over everything you touched and ensure they are attached and torque properly.

    19. Reinstall the wheel/tire and torque.

    20. Down jack the truck.

    21. Measure your new clearances. Mine was 4" in the rear, and 4" in the front almost dead even!

    22. Start the truck, and turn the wheel from right stop to left stop and check clearances.

    23. Road test the vehicle. Take it over some speed bumps, check the steering responsiveness.
    [​IMG]

    24. Take the truck and get it aligned. Prolly a good idea to recheck the nuts and bolts you tightened after the alignement, and retorque them.

    24. Done-sky! :pedobear: :big_banana_Dance:
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2011
  3. EJM05

    EJM05 Senior Member

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    MAke sure you sticky this!!! Awesome write up so far!
     
  4. Trupiano

    Trupiano Registered User

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    Still need to take a couple pics I missed, and edit some of the pics with paint. But thanks!
     
  5. iSlacker816

    iSlacker816 Senior Member

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    Pic of final product????
     
  6. City Slicker

    City Slicker Senior Member

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  7. jojo750

    jojo750 Senior Member

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    good stuff.
    i used a stubby wrench to get that top shock nut off.
    fit perfectly in that space.
    thanks for the pics. its one thing i couldnt do while installing my kit.
     
  8. DisturbedGator

    DisturbedGator Senior Member

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    do they have a full service shop on LRAFB? i know they had one on eglin when in was there. also good right up
     
  9. Trupiano

    Trupiano Registered User

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    Hell yeah man! They had every tool I could ever need.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2011
  10. 05singlecabHEMI

    05singlecabHEMI Senior Member

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    Great write up. You always make good write ups lol
     

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