Improving payload for 2011 Laramie Longhorn 1500 - need your input

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SLT617

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I regularly haul alfalfa on my truck and with a 3.92 axle for a Laramie Longhorn w/Rambox, it looks like my payload is 1,200 and towing is 9,750. I don't really have any issues with towing on my trailer because I typically haul 50-70 bales at a time but hauling in my truck bed has been disappointing.

If I haul around 15 bales at 60-70 lbs each, it's totally fine (and below the payload rating). If I ever try to haul a full load of 23-25 bales, it sags a lot more and I start wagging butt down the highway if I go faster than 50mph.

I understand that if I really want a better payload I should have gotten a bigger truck, (too late for that one) but it does about 95% of what I want it to do as-is. I just want to have a more comfortable ride when I go over the payload a little bit.

My initial thoughts are to do any/all of the following:
- improve rear coil springs with a TufTruck kit like this
- purchase better shock absorbers (maybe Bilstein 5100's?)
- purchase air bags or timbren cushions
- getting LT tires like the Michelin LTX M/S2 (my current tires are about ready to be replaced)

If anyone has done any of these improvements, please let me know. I'm not expecting my truck to turn into a 2500 or 3500, I just want the ride to be a little smoother when it's loaded up.
 

MADDOG

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Sounds like it's a stability issue due to the extreme drop at the rear. I would recommend going with some air bags on the back to level it out. It won't increase the load carrying capacity but it'll take the sag out and help the truck run down the road true and straight.
 

14hemiexpress

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Sounds like you on the right track. You can do the stuff truck coils or you can go timberline air bags they will level out 5k way more than your axle could handle. But tires and springs are the 2 big weak links.
 

BWL

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Air bag helpers are your best bet for what you want to do, but know this does not make up for the 5 bolt wheels and 1/2 ton frame. Take it from a guy who's had wheels snap off and a frame split in 2 over the years..
 
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SLT617

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So after thinking about this a while, I need to fix my shocks first - they've got 130k on them so they're due for an update. I'm going to get the bilstein 5100s. I already have 275/65/20 LT tires but I need new ones anyway. Would going up to 285 or 295 make a difference in terms of payload or performance?

After looking at airlift 5000 and timbrens I'll go with the latter because they only take a few minutes to install. If that ends up not being enough I'll spring for the better coils.

Basically, I'll just do this one thing at a time and see if it solves the problem before getting something else.
 

VernDiesel

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BWL interesting was that with a previous generation ie prior to 09? I would like to see your pics & hear the story.

SLT if you already have an E load tire, changing only the size would make tiny incremental change. You can call mfg or look up load carry capacity of each size for specific tire & load rating on tirerack & other places.

Your weakest link aside from the suspension would be your rear axle not your wheels or frame. I have 409k on my 14 1500 Ecodiesel as a commercial transporter contracted with Airstream, Forrest River, Gulfstream & Fineline boats. Often on return trips I also load a Harley or snowmobile in the bed.

Stock shocks & springs but use WDH with built in sway control, axle to frame bags, and E load tires. Also a TBC & turbo brake. Anyway for you I would only add this.

https://timbergroveenterprises.com/old-home/

There is more than one way as you have noted. But the suspension support, control, dampening, ride & lift of large heavy rubber convoluted axle to frame air bags that can be aired up before or after loading just like a semi has served me well. They are a great compliment to a WDH also as unlike the incoil bags they can be aired up after the truck is loaded & WDH is set. Unlike hard springs these also remove NVH.

One caution it can feel & drive so much better you can be unaware of how much you are overloading the drive axle. You still don’t want more than about 4,500 pounds on it as seen on a CAT scale.
 

BWL

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BWL interesting was that with a previous generation ie prior to 09? I would like to see your pics & hear the story.

SLT if you already have an E load tire, changing only the size would make tiny incremental change. You can call mfg or look up load carry capacity of each size for specific tire & load rating on tirerack & other places.

Your weakest link aside from the suspension would be your rear axle not your wheels or frame. I have 409k on my 14 1500 Ecodiesel as a commercial transporter contracted with Airstream, Forrest River, Gulfstream & Fineline boats. Often on return trips I also load a Harley or snowmobile in the bed.

Stock shocks & springs but use WDH with built in sway control, axle to frame bags, and E load tires. Also a TBC & turbo brake. Anyway for you I would only add this.

https://timbergroveenterprises.com/old-home/

There is more than one way as you have noted. But the suspension support, control, dampening, ride & lift of large heavy rubber convoluted axle to frame air bags that can be aired up before or after loading just like a semi has served me well. They are a great compliment to a WDH also as unlike the incoil bags they can be aired up after the truck is loaded & WDH is set. Unlike hard springs these also remove NVH.

One caution it can feel & drive so much better you can be unaware of how much you are overloading the drive axle. You still don’t want more than about 4,500 pounds on it as seen on a CAT scale.
The frame split was an older chevy and the wheel snapping off was a 2000 F150. The chevy split all the way through except a small section at the top of the frame and the box was pinned to the cab.Not sure exactly when it happened just remember looking at the truck and thinking Wtf followed by crawling underneath and shock at what had happened. The ford had a load of dirt in the back and a tree from the nursery for a home landscape project. the wheel broke off and pretty much destroyed the back right quarter of the box. Rented a truck to shovel the dirt into and load the tree and had it towed after.They were both work trucks that regularly hauled a fair bit of weight and had helpers in the chev and air bags in the ford. Not saying this will happen to you, but keep in mind that these trucks are only built to handle so much weight and overloading them regularly will cause metal fatigue over time. I switched to a Ram 3500 after the ford was wrecked. Now that I don't haul that much weight any more I'm back to a 1500 for the smoother ride and lower maintenance.
 

69GWC

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Myself I would not waste a dime of your money on anything different than Timber Grove air bags, best thing I put on my truck well the Hellwig sway bar is right there with it.
 

TurdHorn-2500

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i think if you are pulling and hauling all the time, you'll benefit from one of these air bag products these guys have. but if you're like me and pretty much just haul a big-ass payload that sags ass now and then, timbrens are awesome lol! couple minutes install, gets rid of the sag once it touches the little barrels, helps with body roll big time, no change in ride height or quality when unloaded, and best of all ZERO maintenance lol
 
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