Inez 4/6 review

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Twistedshadows

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Hey guys just finished my install of inez 4/6 and got it aligned and a few miles put on it so I thought I'd let everybody know my thoughts as well as the problems I've had.

I ordered the kit through moes only took 3 days to show up. There where 2 box's one is the inez parts and the other is the rear bellteck parts (springs bump stops rear sway bar end links shocks and panerd bar bracket)

The kit comes with no install instructions they do have a video with a walk around and a little info but it doesn't go in-depth.

So for the install first and foremost this is deffenetly in the medium category for mechanic skills (took me about 12-15 hours to install). You only need basic wrenches and sockets going up to about 1-1/8. You will probably need a ball joint remover (even with a good ball joint remover the lower ball joints were a pain) out back I used a plasma cutter and grinder to remover the braket. I can't see any way to do it with just a grinder, but maybe with a sawzall or good automotive jigsaw you can do it.

The front is just unbolt and reinstall. You will want to get the f150 front sway bar end links (they should come with the kit the factory ones will have your sway bar at the top of your tire). The only. Two issues I had with the install on the front was with the castle nuts for the new lower ball joint. I couldn't get them far enough on to get the cotter pin in so I had to grind them down a little (no body had small ones in stock and I didn't want to wait a week for ones to be special ordered). I also had to massage the upper control arm brackets with a hammer to get the new control arms in (they were to close so I had to hammer each side on a bit)

The rear is a fair bit more involved. First cutting off the upper brackets is very awkward ( really can't think of a good way to do it without a plasma cutter). Once you have the brackets cut out you can then put the new brackets in place and mark them for the 2 holes you have to drill in the sway bar mount bracket (I started with a small bit then finished with a step bit went fast). Install you brackets (leave them a little lose) and proceed to reinstall your control arms ( prepare for a lot of pushing pulling and prying to get the bolts lined up). There is 1 bracket for the parking brake cable that bolts to the upper control arm mount on the passenger side that you won't be able to reinstall ( I zip ties mine to the axle. The bellteck stuff just bolts on (panhard relocation bracket and sway bar end links). I only cut 1 coil out of my rear springs for 5 inches ( I may go back and cut another half coil but I'm gonna let it settle). I didn't use the shocks in the kit I order the beilstiens recommended in another post and installed those (remember if you get the beilstiens to get the bushings and sleeves for them). I also used the new bump stops from bellteck but you may not want to and ill get to why in the alignment and driving review.
 
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Twistedshadows

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Ok for alignment, all did not go smoothly. First the rear axle ended up a little toed to the passenger side (my alignment guy said I could loosen everything and tie the axle to a tree or post pull it and re tighten but I plan on getting cutterupps control arms so ill wait till later to get it fixed). In the front when I installed the upper control arms I left a 3/8 inch gap on each adjustment. The front camber was adjusted spot on no problem my caster is a half degree off can be fixed by readjusting uppers and realigning with eccentric bolt but the alignment guy was happy so we didn't bother. Now the biggest problem was adjusting front toe, I ended up almost all the way at the end of adjustment on the driver side tie rod (but was able to get it lined up). The passenger side tie rod bottomed out so I had to in thread it all the way out and cut 1/4 off the end of the rod to be able to bring it into alignment.

So now there everything is installed and aligned I took a good look at how everything sits. The front is good except there is only a 1/2 inch gap from the bump stop and control arms (its actually past the bump stop but because of the tapper it doesn't touch while sitting). I installed the new rese bump stops and they are only 1 inch from touching.

Driving
The truck drives good. Feels a little tighter less roll, wheel hop is gone and smooth all the way to 118 were the drive shaft started to get a little noisy (got a bit of moving around but that was wind and crappy fl turnpike). I bottom out on the front bump stops on hard bumps (I'm gonna modify them later and see if I can get more travel). The rear also bottoms out on very large speed bumps but not with normal driving. The rear feels a little more bouncy/springy then factory. Also at full lock the front wheels are rubbing the sway bar and or liners but it isn't bad just a little short of factory locks.

So all in all I'm happy truck drives good doesn't make noise or feel weird. If your expecting the truck to feel the same as factory it wont, but for those who want that 4/5 or 4/6 drop its a decent kit I think a little more thought could be put into fixing the bump stops but ill figure out a way to modify them to work better. (I will not remove them completely I don't like bottoming out hard parts). I also think the f150 front sway bar end links should be included in the kit, the factory ones are way way way to long the f150 ones don't even get it all the way back in place but there a lot better.
 

ramittome

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Remove the front bump stops and metal cups all together and get you some 2" tall Energy Suspension ones. That's what I did. Now I don't bottom out. Also did that in the rears, but went with 1" tall ones just so I'm not hitting metal to metal.
 

rtorres51

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I have the same kit. I installed the AirLift Durango bags in rear to help out with bottoming out. Still using Pro Comp shocks that came with kit. Looking for better shocks in rear. Those Monroe shocks that you mentioned to tall for the 4/6 drop. They work great for the 2/4 drop. Waiting on reply from the manufacturer for the specs on doetsch lowering shocks. The kit handles great, just looking for a better feel in the rear end of truck.
 

Gary's Hemi

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Cut the bump stop cup off the rear and install Energy Suspension bump stops back there too along w/ the front
 
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Twistedshadows

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Awesome tip on the bump stops ill definitely get a set. For the shocks there bielstien not Monroe ( unless they spec the same). They do have a longer extension then the pro comp but they compress down to the same hieght, I did check to make sure they wouldn't drop the springs at full height and the spring are still reasonably tight at full drupe. I may still cut another half coil and ill recheck the springs then.

But yea its a good kit just wish it was a bit more complete with front sway bar end links and now that you guys are saying the energy bump stops, would really make it perfect, especially for guys less mechanically inclined who want it right.

But anyways just wanted to post up my experience since I haven't seen a in depth review from install to alignment and driving.
 
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Twistedshadows

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Oh and btw I forgot to say I also installed the airlift helper bags to, I pull a boat and I fully expected to be riding on the bump stops without them. And it does lol but aired up it looks fine but I haven't driven with the boat yet and ill probably wait till I change out the bump stops now.
 
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Twistedshadows

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This how truck sits now with 22's. Left the back higher.

My RT actually looks lower in the front I wonder if its because the RTs are suppose to have different shocks (dunno lf that's true but that's what I was told at the dealer when I test drive a black edition vs my rt it defiantly rode better)
 

RamKK

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My black beauty♡♡

4/6 inez drop
 

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mpack79

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Looks awesome. What size tires are you running?
 
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Twistedshadows

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I'm out on the road for a few weeks but when I get back I plan on doing the bump stops and seeing if I want to cut another half coil or not. Ill pull the bump stops completely and drop the boat on the back to try and bottom out the shocks to see how far they go. But as far as ride there smooth and the bumps aren't jarring but if you want a tight feel maybe better with the pro comps (not sure how they ride as I didn't even install mine). But then again could be the springs that leave the rear feeling a little bouncy/springy/soft. Its nice for daily not great feeling if you want sporty.
 

ramittome

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I'm running the pro comps in the rears with mine cut down to a 4/6 drop and love it. Also running the Hellwig sway bars, so that helps as well. Can take turns very fast.
 

Avgas

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How did the rear axle get out of alignment?
 
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Twistedshadows

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When you install the plates that have notches that help line then up but you are the one who drills the 2 bolt holes in the back, not to mention that there is a little more wiggle room for the bars on the new brackets. Its only about 3/32 out which is with in acceptable range for most alignment shops but my does setup for race cars so he's a perfectionist. Besides i was gonna get cutterups bars no matter what so I don't mind. He'll if it was a chevy that would be stock lol so many of them drive down the road crab walking.
 

Gary's Hemi

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These Bilsteins in this pic are a good replacement for the Belltech shocks. My Belltechs wore out after 30,000 miles. The rear shocks are the 5100's in the pic. I love them. MUCH BETTER than the Belltechs. By far a night and day difference.
 

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Quicksilver337

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don't know if those shocks will work on the rear for a 4/6 or 5/7 drop. My shocks are shorter than the belltech shocks
 
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