What i'm hearing is you want lights that shut off when the key is out no matter what, but when the key is on you want a switch control.
There are a couple ways to do this, the easiest is to just get an automotive relay, 2 inline fuses, switch and some wire.
Run the common of the relay through an inline fuse sized properly to the gauge of wire and load of the lighting being used and straight to battery positive. Run the normally open contact to your lights and then the lights to ground. Now when the relay turns on the lights turn on and are protected by a fuse. Now you need to hook one of the signal pins of the relay up to ground. Now take the other pin and run it to one side of the switch, from the other terminal on the switch run it to an inline fuse rated at 1 or 2 amps. From there you're going to be in the dash somewhere so we'll use the easiest ignition switched wire in the car, the radio ignition wire, its going to be the red and white wire on the radio.
This way you are only drawing about 200ma from the ignition switch and sourcing all the power for the lights directly from the battery. With a small fuse rating on the switch you reduce the chance of damaging the vehicle electrical system to almost nothing while still being able to draw 40/60A directly from the battery/alternator for any lighting demand you may have in the future. Be it just some LED bumper lights, or high power LED off-road lighting. And since the power supplied to the switch is killed with the radio, the relay will also lose power and shut off the lighting when the radio loses power. This also gives you the option of turning the key to accessory to only power up the lighting and not the vehicle computers or blower motor.
