My Quad Headlight retrofit build.

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Do you think you could have put a useful projector in the high beam spot? Trying to plan my build and really want a 2nd projector in the high beam for obnoxious amount of light.

You can fit the Matchbox in there. I almost did it but didn’t want to mix LED and HID. Plus the HID high beam would have to warm up before being as effective. I’m with ya on that though. Lol

Profile just released a dedicated LED high beam projector that I think will fit. Looks pretty bright but not sure.


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You can fit the Matchbox in there. I almost did it but didn’t want to mix LED and HID. Plus the HID high beam would have to warm up before being as effective. I’m with ya on that though. Lol

Profile just released a dedicated LED high beam projector that I think will fit. Looks pretty bright but not sure.


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You got a link to those profiles? I have time to plan as the baby is due next month so plenty of time to gather supplies. I want to scare termites with my high beams during the day! I’d do a led bar but no room on a bighorn.
 
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Nice Job on the headlights!! They came out sweet!! Do the demon eyes act as DRL's? If so what wire did you tap into. Looking to have my halos as DRL's and the projectors as my low beams.
 
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Nice Job on the headlights!! They came out sweet!! Do the demon eyes act as DRL's? If so what wire did you tap into. Looking to have my halos as DRL's and the projectors as my low beams.

There is a true white with these demon eyes but I wouldn’t say they are bright enough for a DRL. My halos have a DRL function though. It’s tapped into the ACC relay in the fuse box.


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Tips for opening the headlight? I really struggled. I found the glue cooled very quickly which meant multiple trips to the oven and so much glue still in the crevice.
 

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Tips for opening the headlight? I really struggled. I found the glue cooled very quickly which meant multiple trips to the oven and so much glue still in the crevice.

Sounds like permaseal. Cold glue tools works wonders. Unfortunately you kind of have to be patient when it comes to permaseal
It takes multiple trips. Start off at 240 for 15 mins... first pass just run a flathead underneath the tabs and around to almost break the seal.. then from there 240 for 10 mins.. make multiple trips. Trying to crack break the seal and crack open a side one at a time ( I start at the bottom). Oem lights are permaseal we for sure. I know aftermarket tyc replica projector style lights are also permaseal. Now I’m not sure if the replica dual headlights are permaseal or butyl. If butyl those are easy as hell to open.


Patience is the key... or you’ll screw up the headlight and sealing would be a pain.


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Tips for opening the headlight? I really struggled. I found the glue cooled very quickly which meant multiple trips to the oven and so much glue still in the crevice.

I had the same issue. Permaseal is a pain. I gave up on the oven method and broke out the heat gun and was very careful and very patient. You can mess up easy with the heat gun if you aren’t patient.


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You got a link to those profiles? I have time to plan as the baby is due next month so plenty of time to gather supplies. I want to scare termites with my high beams during the day! I’d do a led bar but no room on a bighorn.
Cops can pull you over for having an uncovered LED light bar. Fine isnt cheap.
What is an MLED? Multi led light? I had multi led spot lights on my jeep bumper. They were brughter than airplane landing lights! 6,000 lumens each!!! I kept covers on mine while driving so i didnt get pulled over and ticketed.

IMG_0225.JPG
 
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Even RTS talks you out of the MLED. I was ready to buy on Cyber monday and they talked me down into HID, I didnt buy anything.
 
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Cops can pull you over for having an uncovered LED light bar. Fine isnt cheap.
What is an MLED? Multi led light? I had multi led spot lights on my jeep bumper. They were brughter than airplane landing lights! 6,000 lumens each!!! I kept covers on mine while driving so i didnt get pulled over and ticketed.

View attachment 123214

Morimoto’s MLED is their Bi-LED projector. I personally love it and couldn’t be happier. Nothing against HID but I prefer LED more.


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Even RTS talks you out of the MLED. I was ready to buy on Cyber monday and they talked me down into HID, I didnt buy anything.

They didn’t talk me out of it. They gave the pros and cons but insured me I would be happy either way. Like I said, nothing against HID but I prefer LED. I’m very very pleased with my MLED and wouldn’t do it any other way.


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I think this may actually be my first post. I just finished building my headlight retrofit project. I’m very pleased even though I’ve found several flaws I wish I would have found before.

Build list:
-Morimoto MLED projectors (lo/hi beam)
-Morimoto X.DRL 1 (high beam more for looks though)
-Morimoto XB LED vertical fogs
-Diode Dynamics RGBW demon eyes
-Diode Dynamics HD fitted halo (DRL and switch backs)
-Diode Dynamics switch back 3157s
-DKMOULDS light tint clear reflectors


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Can you please share what Anti-Flicker Harness/Resistor/Capacitor you used for the M-LED projector? I'm getting ready to retrofit a set of M-LED Projectors into quads, I've already ordered everything I need, except whatever I'm going to need to prevent flickering and bulb out messages.

Thanks in advance.

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Can you please share what Anti-Flicker Harness/Resistor/Capacitor you used for the M-LED projector? I'm getting ready to retrofit a set of M-LED Projectors into quads, I've already ordered everything I need, except whatever I'm going to need to prevent flickering and bulb out messages.

Thanks in advance.

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What year is yours? This is the one I had to use. Depending on your year it may be different.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mopar-spec-2015-low-beam.html

And yes OEM quad headlight. Picked up an extra set off craigslist so I could take my time building them.


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What year is yours? This is the one I had to use. Depending on your year it may be different.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mopar-spec-2015-low-beam.html

And yes OEM quad headlight. Picked up an extra set off craigslist so I could take my time building them.


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I have a 2012 so I'm guessing I need something different. Was hoping to her something more simple the a hid harness. Was hoping the Morimoto Canbus Standalone Capacitors would work since my last hid kit had them. Or that I could get away with using a simple led Anti-Flicker adapter like you would use for a simple led build.

I wrote to TRS, Retroshop and LightWerkz and I'm waiting to hear back because yesterday was July 4th so nobody answered me.

Thanks for getting back to me, but that harness just won't work for me.

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I have a 2012 so I'm guessing I need something different. Was hoping to her something more simple the a hid harness. Was hoping the Morimoto Canbus Standalone Capacitors would work since my last hid kit had them. Or that I could get away with using a simple led Anti-Flicker adapter like you would use for a simple led build.

I wrote to TRS, Retroshop and LightWerkz and I'm waiting to hear back because yesterday was July 4th so nobody answered me.

Thanks for getting back to me, but that harness just won't work for me.

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In that case it should be this one I think. I’ll double check.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/anti-flicker-low-beam.html


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In that case it should be this one I think. I’ll double check.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/anti-flicker-low-beam.html


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So, since I'm doing the retrofit in the oem quads, I'm a little bit confused on which anti flicker harness I want to order, and here's why:

Plug Connections

M-LED Projector: 9006
Low-Beam Harness Inside Quad Housing: H11
Harness Outside Headlight: H13

So originally, from the factory, the quads have a harness inside the housing that plugs into the low beam (H11) and the high beam (9005) then runs out the back of the housing to a male H13 plug. The trucks wiring harness then has a female H13 plug that the headlight housing connects too.


So, do I buy an H11 harness, h13 harness, or a 9006 harness since the M-LED projector has 9006 plugs?

Super confused and I'm usually really good and figuring out what wires and plugs go where but this is my first LED projector install so it's new to me.

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BTW, my first box of parts showed up today!! 28585f41c05ade7467b8adca878d88e4.jpgb43439f5f26a280d75e72e9a0814ef39.jpg96c49ad144e8a66250054c321180bee4.jpg

Unfortunately, the G37-R Shrouds were defective and had a bunch of plastic defects around the inside ring that sits right next to where the projector lense would be, once mounted. So I called T.R.S. and they were super cool about it. During the phone call I sent over 7 pics of the imperfections, while still on the phone, Carlos reviewed the pictures, apologized, put in an order for a pair of new G37-R shrouds to be sent to me for free and said he would personally inspect them before they are sent out.

I must say, The Retrofit Source has A-MAZ-ING A++ Customer Service. My phone call lasted 10 minutes and in that short period, he reviewed the problem and already had a new order placed and the replacement shrouds have already shipped today.

I still have 13 more things coming from TRS and I feel super confident that if I have any issues at all, TRS won't hesitate to fix the issue.

If anyone is considering ordering Retrofit stuff, you should 100% order from TRS. They are running a 25% off sale right now and I ordered $850 worth of stuff and I only paid $637.50, which is fricken insane!!! Hurry up the 25% off sale ends July 8th!!

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