My Quad Headlight retrofit build.

[UGAFAN]

So, since I'm doing the retrofit in the oem quads, I'm a little bit confused on which anti flicker harness I want to order, and here's why:

Plug Connections

M-LED Projector: 9006
Low-Beam Harness Inside Quad Housing: H11
Harness Outside Headlight: H13

So originally, from the factory, the quads have a harness inside the housing that plugs into the low beam (H11) and the high beam (9005) then runs out the back of the housing to a male H13 plug. The trucks wiring harness then has a female H13 plug that the headlight housing connects too.


So, do I buy an H11 harness, h13 harness, or a 9006 harness since the M-LED projector has 9006 plugs?

Super confused and I'm usually really good and figuring out what wires and plugs go where but this is my first LED projector install so it's new to me.

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What I did is tapped into the H13 male and female plugs and created 2 9006 plugs coming off the truck and coming out of the headlight giving the low and high beams their own separate plugs. Then on the inside, I used TRS’ H11 to 9006 adapter for the low beam and since I have the DRL projector as an additional high beam I used the TRS high beam splitter. Sounds a bit confusing but very easy. Also, all TRS harnesses that are 9006 are also 9005. The only difference between the 2 is an alignment tab and TRS makes theirs universal.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/high-beam-splitters.html

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/headlight-socket-adapters.html?preselect=49229


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[OnSale]

What I did is tapped into the H13 male and female plugs and created 2 9006 plugs coming off the truck and coming out of the headlight giving the low and high beams their own separate plugs. Then on the inside, I used TRS’ H11 to 9006 adapter for the low beam and since I have the DRL projector as an additional high beam I used the TRS high beam splitter. Sounds a bit confusing but very easy. Also, all TRS harnesses that are 9006 are also 9005. The only difference between the 2 is an alignment tab and TRS makes theirs universal.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/high-beam-splitters.html

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/headlight-socket-adapters.html?preselect=49229


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Yeah I ordered the high beam splitters... I also order 2 H11 to 9006 adapters so I could plug the projectors right into the OEM bulb wire plugs inside the housing.

I don't quite understand what you meant with the adding 2 9006 plugs to the wiring.

I'm going to order the H11 antiflicker harness and see if it works.

So I think I understand what the wiring needs to be now. BTW, I plan on running the Opt-7 FluxBeam-X 9005 for my high beam bulb, just to have a brighter, cleaner looking high beam if I ever need it. The color should be pretty close to the 5500k of the M-LED projector.

So, to my understanding, on this diagram, the plug that says BALLAST OUTPUT will plug into the "Low Beam" plug on the M-LED Driver (pictured below)? Then the "OEM BULB INPUT" would plug into the stock H11 plug that's in the inside of the Quad housing. Do I have this right? I have the H11M -> 9006F adapters already on the way.



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[UGAFAN]

Yeah I ordered the high beam splitters... I also order 2 H11 to 9006 adapters so I could plug the projectors right into the OEM bulb wire plugs inside the housing.

I don't quite understand what you meant with the adding 2 9006 plugs to the wiring.

I'm going to order the H11 antiflicker harness and see if it works.

So I think I understand what the wiring needs to be now. BTW, I plan on running the Opt-7 FluxBeam-X 9005 for my high beam bulb, just to have a brighter, cleaner looking high beam if I ever need it. The color should be pretty close to the 5500k of the M-LED projector.

So, to my understanding, on this diagram, the plug that says BALLAST OUTPUT will plug into the "Low Beam" plug on the M-LED Driver (pictured below)? Then the "OEM BULB INPUT" would plug into the stock H11 plug that's in the inside of the Quad housing. Do I have this right? I have the H11M -> 9006F adapters already on the way.



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The H13 has 3 wires. Low beam positive high beam positive and one ground for both. So to make it easier, I got some 9006 pig tails and spliced in to create a independent 9006 for the high beam since it doesn’t need a relay harness and an independent 9006 plug for the low beam so I can run the harness. May be a little more work but makes any maintenance or troubleshooting down the road much easier. This also kept as much as I can outside of the headlight because there is very little room inside.

Yes, the “into ballast” plugs into the low beam plug (in my case after the plug mods I did, outside of the headlight) this kept me from adding additional holes in the back of the light for harness wires to pass through. Keeps everything neat and organized.

The opt 7 in the high beam probably will not work. That socket is very tight and has basically no free space between the back of the bulb and the cap when closed.




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[OnSale]

The H13 has 3 wires. Low beam positive high beam positive and one ground for both. So to make it easier, I got some 9006 pig tails and spliced in to create a independent 9006 for the high beam since it doesn’t need a relay harness and an independent 9006 plug for the low beam so I can run the harness. May be a little more work but makes any maintenance or troubleshooting down the road much easier. This also kept as much as I can outside of the headlight because there is very little room inside.

Yes, the “into ballast” plugs into the low beam plug (in my case after the plug mods I did, outside of the headlight) this kept me from adding additional holes in the back of the light for harness wires to pass through. Keeps everything neat and organized.

The opt 7 in the high beam probably will not work. That socket is very tight and has basically no free space between the back of the bulb and the cap when closed.




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I had an opt-7 Fluxbeam x in the high beam on an older set of quads. It sticks up, but you just twist the cap back on and push down and it seals. Ran it in there that close to the dust cap for over 6 months with zero issues.

I'm thinking about ordering the Profile Hi-Lens LED High Beam Projector (Q45 look alike) for the high beam spot... Then I can throw the opt7's into the fog lights.


Question. When you say "the high beam doesn't need a relay harness" what do you mean, is it not monitored by Canbus? I forget what you said you put in your high beam area but I'm pretty sure it was an led of some sort. So how come the high beam doesn't need a relay?

And dude, thank you so much for all your help. You've helped answer a bunch of questions I had. Your the man!

Oh and P.S. as for the wires outside the housing and all that, I have Profile Prism Halos (80mm & 110mm) going into the G37-R shrouds, as well as Profile Demon Eyes. So I have alot of wires already, but I'm probably going to mount the Halo+Demon Eye driver's inside the housing, and then the morimoto xbt bluetooth controller as well, so I only have to run the wires for the controller out the headlight. I retrofitted a set of 13+ projectors last year and I did switchback halos, C-Bars, led boards, plus more, and I mounted and wired everything internally so when you looked at the back of the headlight housing, it looked or with no wires coming out, except the hid kit wires but they were smushed between the dust cap and housing because JJ from RS told me to just tighten the dust cap with the wires between the cap and housing and smush them and the rubber gasket will seal around the wires. He said that's what he does, and it worked. But I'm getting off track now, my point is, I'll be doing my best to have the least amount of wires possible coming out the backside of the housing.

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[UGAFAN]

I had an opt-7 Fluxbeam x in the high beam on an older set of quads. It sticks up, but you just twist the cap back on and push down and it seals. Ran it in there that close to the dust cap for over 6 months with zero issues.

I'm thinking about ordering the Profile Hi-Lens LED High Beam Projector (Q45 look alike) for the high beam spot... Then I can throw the opt7's into the fog lights.


Question. When you say "the high beam doesn't need a relay harness" what do you mean, is it not monitored by Canbus? I forget what you said you put in your high beam area but I'm pretty sure it was an led of some sort. So how come the high beam doesn't need a relay?

And dude, thank you so much for all your help. You've helped answer a bunch of questions I had. Your the man!

Oh and P.S. as for the wires outside the housing and all that, I have Profile Prism Halos (80mm & 110mm) going into the G37-R shrouds, as well as Profile Demon Eyes. So I have alot of wires already, but I'm probably going to mount the Halo+Demon Eye driver's inside the housing, and then the morimoto xbt bluetooth controller as well, so I only have to run the wires for the controller out the headlight. I retrofitted a set of 13+ projectors last year and I did switchback halos, C-Bars, led boards, plus more, and I mounted and wired everything internally so when you looked at the back of the headlight housing, it looked or with no wires coming out, except the hid kit wires but they were smushed between the dust cap and housing because JJ from RS told me to just tighten the dust cap with the wires between the cap and housing and smush them and the rubber gasket will seal around the wires. He said that's what he does, and it worked. But I'm getting off track now, my point is, I'll be doing my best to have the least amount of wires possible coming out the backside of the housing.

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Oh ok cool. I had been told they wouldn’t fit so I didn’t try. I wish I would have gotten the profile hi-lens. It was released a week after I finished mine up and I didn’t feel like opening them back up. I used the Morimoto X.DRL 1 projector or whatever it’s called. It doesn’t project as much as I hoped but it’s bright as hell to look at which is all I cared about really.

And yes, the high beams are not monitored by canbus. The trucks high beam wiring run the xdrl as if it’s a normal bulb. It could be that it’s reading the voltage from not only the xdrl but the MLED as well. Not sure.

And no problem man. Glad to help


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[OnSale]

Oh ok cool. I had been told they wouldn’t fit so I didn’t try. I wish I would have gotten the profile hi-lens. It was released a week after I finished mine up and I didn’t feel like opening them back up. I used the Morimoto X.DRL 1 projector or whatever it’s called. It doesn’t project as much as I hoped but it’s bright as hell to look at which is all I cared about really.

And yes, the high beams are not monitored by canbus. The trucks high beam wiring run the xdrl as if it’s a normal bulb. It could be that it’s reading the voltage from not only the xdrl but the MLED as well. Not sure.

And no problem man. Glad to help


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Oh cool, well if I go with the Hi-Lens for the high beam then I'll try just plugging it in first and if it works with no issues then I'll be super happy. Otherwise I'll need the 9005 Anti-Flicker Harness I guess.

Thanks again for all your help, I'll let you know how things go and I'll post pics of the process

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[UGAFAN]

Oh cool, well if I go with the Hi-Lens for the high beam then I'll try just plugging it in first and if it works with no issues then I'll be super happy. Otherwise I'll need the 9005 Anti-Flicker Harness I guess.

Thanks again for all your help, I'll let you know how things go and I'll post pics of the process

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Awesome sounds good. Here are pics of the back of my lights. The one is with the standard H13 before splicing then the one of the finished product. Did the same thing coming off the truck too. Made it easier to run my relay harness






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[OnSale]

Love my MLED projectors. Couldn't be happier.

 

[markusaf81]

Looks awesome!

So, selling your stock black ones?????


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[Bat Koce]

Here is a morimoto retrofit.

 

[Gero]

The mled are really nice and not having to worry about ballasts, bulbs and ignitors is a huge plus. I believe mled is nearly as intense as the md2s with 50w ballast which is impressive. I just wish the beam was a little bit wider.

 

[Leadf00t]

Just came across this thread. I have been looking into the Diode switchback. Quick question, how did you secure it to your housing ?

 

[BEAST19]

Just came across this thread. I have been looking into the Diode switchback. Quick question, how did you secure it to your housing ?

I used beading wire (drilled small holes in housing and wrapped wire through holds and around the switchback and used small dabs of epoxy glue 3 years running and no issues


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[Bat Koce]

Just came across this thread. I have been looking into the Diode switchback. Quick question, how did you secure it to your housing ?

Just epoxy, I hope it holds.

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