Need help! Remote start

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by Mikeyn23, Dec 26, 2016.

  1. Mikeyn23

    Mikeyn23 Member

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    Yea I just found a wiring diagram for it so I'm gunna try it and see if it works if not then I'm just taking it somewhere to get it done
     
  2. crazzywolfie

    crazzywolfie Senior Member

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    just because you don't have a chipped key doesn't mean your truck doesn't have an immobilizer and need a bypass. if you got a key fob and you press the locked button twice and it honks at you then you can set off the alarm by manually opening the door with a key then you likely have an immobilizer. if you were to set off the alarm like that it would keep you from being able to start your truck until you reset it with the key fob. i know my mom learned this the hard way.
     
  3. justin13703

    justin13703 Senior Member

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    While yes this may be considered an immobilizer, an aftermarket immobilizer bypass for remote starts just mimics the chip in the key to let the vehicle start. That's really all they do. If you do not have a chip in the key then you don't need an immobilizer bypass.

    With an aftermarket remote start/keyless entry, when installed correctly, it will automatically arm and disarm the factory security system when it needs to so that the scenario you brought up won't happen. This isn't something that you need an immobilizer bypass for. Just a correct install.
     
  4. crazzywolfie

    crazzywolfie Senior Member

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    that is good to know but i guess that also proves that you really need to know the vehicle and wiring pretty good to hook up a remote start. i guess i am lucky i only needed to hook up about 5 or 6 wires with my 93 to make the remote start function and turn the heat on.
     
  5. justin13703

    justin13703 Senior Member

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    Yeah back in the day it basically was just energize the ignition and acc circuits, energize the starter, use virtual tach to verify that it started, and a ground. Now there is a lot more circuitry that has to be energized and monitored, relays, diodes etc. parking lights, door locks, interfacing with the factory security system, safety features such as hood switches, it goes on and on.

    The real fun ones are remote starts with full security, glass break and shock sensors, cell phone control modules, and immobilizer bypass on a modern, all computerized manual transmission car lol. Done a couple of them before and it took me and another certified installer a full 8 hrs each
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2017
  6. argroft

    argroft Member

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    Yeah, I think when installed mine there's at least 8 wires that need wired into the ignition harness alone, not to mention the brake, neutral safety, hood pin, alarm, locks, parking lights, horn, door sense and probably a few more. Not to mention the handful of resistors/ relay you'll need to get the locks/ lights/ alarm to function properly.

    I happened to have a viper remote start system and bought a dball2 immobilizer bypass. I don't think I'd ever purchase a different one. About 4 wires to the vehicle (6 if you have a chip) and it takes care of the alarm, locks, sentry key immobilizer, tach, and door sense. That's a savings of 4 relays, 4 diodes, 4 resistors and the headache of finding all those wires! I think it actually sends most the info direct to the computer via the OBDII port.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
     
  7. justin13703

    justin13703 Senior Member

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    Those DBALL units were awesome. For the newer chryslers like you said, it took longer to get to the wiring harness than to do the actual install. It sends and receives all its information through the vehicle's can bus system. I installed one on a friend's Jeep Patriot in like 20 minutes. Last I heard they were removing that functionality from the DBALL because it wasn't profitable enough, but I've been out of the game for a few years so I don't know what ever came of it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2017
  8. argroft

    argroft Member

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    Yeah, I don't know. I bought mine dishes because it was easier and cheaper than getting the flashing tool. It's biggest bonus was it's "D2D" connection to the remote start unit, otherwise it would have been another 10 wire connections to get it all hooked up. Even still, I would go with a dball2 over any other bypass for these trucks just because it minimizes unit-to-truck connections (less wiring, less to mess up!).

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
     

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