Need opinions on towing 8300lbs-9000lbs

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Blkhammer

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so I’m curious on your guys opinion on towing something this heavy. Basically it’s a toy hauler (dry weight 6400lbs) + razor (1500lbs) + food/Necessities/etc. I’m guessing weight would be around 8300-9000lbs. I plan on towing this with my 2012 ram 1500 4x4 (3.92gears). I know it says can tow up to 10,000lbs. Just wanted to get some feedback from people who have already done this.

How did the truck handle?
Was the motor screaming the whole time?
Any type of issues?
Any pointers to make tow/haul easier( besides the obvious ,bigger truck, or lighter load)

And of course I know you need a good distribution hitch to make things a little easier

Thanks for your input/feedback.
 

TRCM

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You'll likely exceed payload as well.
 

MasonD21

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I hate it when people answer a question with a redirection to another thread, but in this same section "Towing an RV trailer" has lots of very valuable information for you.

But a couple things that aren't stated there:

Your 5.7 makes the majority of its power at 3,500-4,000 RPM, so in regards to hill climbs, expect that engine to need to spin to make power.

Secondly, your truck will pull a load like that a lot "easier" with factory diameter or smaller diameter tires. So if you're lifted with monster tires, you will work that truck to its limit.

Be safe. Have fun!
 

MADDOG

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You need to figure out your truck's weight with fuel, passengers & gear in it, what the tongue weight and loaded weight of the trailer is, then add that all together to get the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight (GCVW).

Then, look up the specs on your truck's Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) and the payload rating.

I suspect you are gonna be over your truck's rated capacity.
 

mtofell

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Plenty of engine and power. Not nearly enough brakes or suspension. Way too much for a 1/2 ton. Actually, way, way too much.

You're borderline too much but doable with a 6400# dry trailer. Add in a 1500# toy and it's not going to be possible to stay anywhere close to your payload and have a stable setup.
 

crash68

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Find a set of CAT scales to set up your WDH with. Have the truck and trailer fully loaded when you set it up.
 

GsRAM

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With those weights, your in 3/4 ton truck territory. You will very likely be over your payload limit. 1/2 ton tow ratings are artificially High, many times have tons will run out of payload well before they ever hit the factory tow rating.

For me personally, half ton Towing I'll go to 7500 pounds or so loaded trailer weight. Much more than that you're in 3/4 ton truck territory. Good luck
 
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Blkhammer

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Thanks for the feedback. I’m getting a lot of good info here. Figured I ask around.
 

R.L.K.

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My truck is rated for 9,300 lbs if I remember correctly....14 Ram 4x4 QC 6 Speed ,355 diffs .
I towed 8700 lbs once , I won't do that again , plenty of power just not enough stoping power and didn't handle well imo .

I've hauled 7000-7500 lbs multiple times and it pulled that just fine , so as far as m concerned 7,500 is my personal max with this truck .

Hope this helps .

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

14hemiexpress

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Things that will help would be air bags. Upgraded away bar, brake controller if you don't already have one, and higher rated tires such as 8 or 10 ply. If the trailer has good brakes you would be fine braking. With that being said your going to be over your legal payload. Toy haulers are notorious for having heavy hitch weights. Personally I wouldn't do it. Just out of curiosity what trim level is your truck and how long of a trailer is the toy hauler?
 

14RAM1500BG

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I`m watching this thread as I am looking for info/ hints on towing with my 14 Ram 1500 .
 

VernDiesel

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I’ve had different TT/THs with & without bed loads in the 8,500 to 9,100 range and over 30’. Proper size spring bar WDH with built in sway control. (Blue Ox, Equalizer, Husky) with axle to frame air bags handled those loads better (steer, wind, & stop) with good WD as proven & set up by scale results than 7,000 pound loads less than 30’ dropped on a regular hitch.

OPs load is better suited for an HD. That said through WD of TV, TH, & WDH, get your steer axle to 3,300 or better, your drive axle to 4,300 or less, & your TW down to as low as 10 percent and it will be stable to tow. If you could get to 3,800 each sure that would be better. No white knuckle driving just a fully but properly loaded truck.

There is your info & hints from a commercial transporter with 409k on his 1500 Ecodiesel doing it.

I know some Jim bob is going to say you need to stack weight estimates toward a yellow payload sticker number. But that is not much more helpful than saying white trucks tow more than red ones. I’m mean there is some truth in both but understanding more of the how & why and useing that approach is better.

There is more legal so to speak mfg specs but this addresses the core issue of setting up a safe stable tow.
 
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Blkhammer

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I’m running a 2012 ram 1500 tow package, 3.92 gears, with oem brake controller, airlift 1000 airbags, plan on buying a good WDH from husky or equalizer.

Trailer is brand new 24ft long / 6400lbs dry/ 800-900lbs at the hitch or (Tongue weight).

I understand the truck is not going to race up a hill I just want to make sure it’s going to be safe. I’m thinking taking everything to a scale will be best bet to see and calculate.

If you add a 900lbs tongue weight from trailer
26gal of gas-165lbs = 1065lbs at hitch. Now do you add the weight of people in the truck to that number to get tongue weight?
 
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cuttymcgavin

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I had a 2016 1500 with the 3.92 gears. Towed a 5500lbs dry camper then upgraded to a 38ft 8400 dry camper, load it with everything for camping, bikes etc.. Very close to 10K, probably even over. lol. The 5.7 liter never screamed and ran really smooth with plenty of extra power. The brakes even responded very well granted I do have trailer brakes too. The rear end squatted like crap!! I use a weight distribution hitch and it is an absolute must!! Stay away from the WD hitches that use the old chains and seperate anti sway bar, I used mine to bring the camper home and it was a windy winter day in NJ, the trailer swayed a good 3-4 ft each side!! I went with a husky centerline TS WD hitch, it has the anitsway built in and it really improved the towing. I would recommend swapping out some HD springs or adding airbags. My lease for the 2016 was up and I was able to buy a 2015 2500 for less than the buy out with a bunch of features included so I went that route.
 

cuttymcgavin

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I’m running a 2012 ram 1500 tow package, 3.92 gears, with oem brake controller, airlift 1000 airbags, plan on buying a good WDH from husky or equalizer.

Trailer is brand new 24ft long / 6400lbs dry/ 800-900lbs at the hitch or (Tongue weight).

I understand the truck is not going to race up a hill I just want to make sure it’s going to be safe. I’m thinking taking everything to a scale will be best bet to see and calculate.

If you add a 900lbs tongue weight from trailer
26gal of gas-165lbs = 1065lbs at hitch. Now do you add the weight of people in the truck to that number to get tongue weight?

People and cargo in the bed would be your payload and not your tounge weight any extra cargo placed insode your camper between the hitch and camper axle will add to your tounge weight, so try not to pack everything up front in the camper. My camper is almost 8500lbs dry with a tounge weight of 880lbs. You will be suprised what that 5.7 will do!! I have passed people going up some big inclines in PA with my 38ft trailer.
 
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Blkhammer

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Thank you. That info helped me out. And wow you hauled some heavy stuff. I have read other people hauling heavier things which makes me feel I should have no issue even if I put razor in back as long as my weight distribution hitch is setup correctly along with my airbags.

But I like to ask people who have already done it or tried and see what there outcome or experience was like.

People and cargo in the bed would be your payload and not your tounge weight any extra cargo placed insode your camper between the hitch and camper axle will add to your tounge weight, so try not to pack everything up front in the camper. My camper is almost 8500lbs dry with a tounge weight of 880lbs. You will be suprised what that 5.7 will do!! I have passed people going up some big inclines in PA with my 38ft trailer.
 
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cuttymcgavin

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Yeah I was pushing the envelope with towing capacity. The engine has plenty power, its the suspension and braking that will limit your towing. So adding the HD springs or air bags will help, definitely get a good WD hitch, the equalizer is always a good choice of a WD hitch as well. Allow yourself plenty of room to stop, brake or maneuver in the event of any roadway issues. Your truck will easily pull that camper over 80mph but do not do it because the trailer tires are not rated for those kinda speeds, plus common sense!! If you dont have a brake controller I would add one, thats if your trailer has brakes of course. Happy Hauling and good luck!!
 

RamInfo

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I had a 2016 1500 with the 3.92 gears. Towed a 5500lbs dry camper then upgraded to a 38ft 8400 dry camper, load it with everything for camping, bikes etc.. Very close to 10K, probably even over. lol. The 5.7 liter never screamed and ran really smooth with plenty of extra power. The brakes even responded very well granted I do have trailer brakes too. The rear end squatted like crap!! I use a weight distribution hitch and it is an absolute must!! Stay away from the WD hitches that use the old chains and seperate anti sway bar, I used mine to bring the camper home and it was a windy winter day in NJ, the trailer swayed a good 3-4 ft each side!! I went with a husky centerline TS WD hitch, it has the anitsway built in and it really improved the towing. I would recommend swapping out some HD springs or adding airbags. My lease for the 2016 was up and I was able to buy a 2015 2500 for less than the buy out with a bunch of features included so I went that route.

To the OP: Spend some time on the RV sites like rev.net and you’ll find countless people who go the same route as what you read above. The story usually is “I upgraded ThisAndThat on the truck and used SuchAndSuch hitch and antisway and my truck pulled it just fine.” Then you read on and discover they ended up moving to a 2500 series truck, which is what they really needed in the first place for what they wanted to tow. The J2807 “max tow rating” is only a measure of what the truck will PULL, not what it can effectively brake or keep under control.

I agree with the posters who stated that north of 7500lbs you really need to be in a 2500. Even at that weight, with a 1500 when you are towing at 60 and an 18-wheeler passes you at 80 you’ll get a whole new understanding of excitement as the wind draft sucks your rig into a sway, regardless of what you’ve done for hitches and such. All the mods do is help you survive so you can get home and trade that 1500 for a true HD truck.

Good luck,
DG
 

xeriminox

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I’ve had different TT/THs with & without bed loads in the 8,500 to 9,100 range and over 30’. Proper size spring bar WDH with built in sway control. (Blue Ox, Equalizer, Husky) with axle to frame air bags handled those loads better (steer, wind, & stop) with good WD as proven & set up by scale results than 7,000 pound loads less than 30’ dropped on a regular hitch.

OPs load is better suited for an HD. That said through WD of TV, TH, & WDH, get your steer axle to 3,300 or better, your drive axle to 4,300 or less, & your TW down to as low as 10 percent and it will be stable to tow. If you could get to 3,800 each sure that would be better. No white knuckle driving just a fully but properly loaded truck.

There is your info & hints from a commercial transporter with 409k on his 1500 Ecodiesel doing it.

I know some Jim bob is going to say you need to stack weight estimates toward a yellow payload sticker number. But that is not much more helpful than saying white trucks tow more than red ones. I’m mean there is some truth in both but understanding more of the how & why and useing that approach is better.

There is more legal so to speak mfg specs but this addresses the core issue of setting up a safe stable tow.


Vern’s words are gold. While those weights are best accommodated by a HD chassis, the 1500 is a very capable rig—despite what might be said by some naysayers. Careful consideration given to distribution of weight is paramount and will allow you to take advantage of the potential of your 1500.
 

dexter

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so I’m curious on your guys opinion on towing something this heavy. Basically it’s a toy hauler (dry weight 6400lbs) + razor (1500lbs) + food/Necessities/etc. I’m guessing weight would be around 8300-9000lbs. I plan on towing this with my 2012 ram 1500 4x4 (3.92gears). I know it says can tow up to 10,000lbs. Just wanted to get some feedback from people who have already done this.

How did the truck handle?
Was the motor screaming the whole time?
Any type of issues?
Any pointers to make tow/haul easier( besides the obvious ,bigger truck, or lighter load)

And of course I know you need a good distribution hitch to make things a little easier

Thanks for your input/feedback.

I have a smaller TT and a 2500.

Key points:
It is the payload that is the key number - truck loaded with gear/people. You will be over that.

Wind is a huge factor; more then mountains in my opinion.

Stopping is another issue. The TT and loaded pick up will be pushed around.

Check out my sig line.
 
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