New to pickups and towing. I have questions.

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Blade69

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Hey guys. I'm new to the whole pickup/towing game. I went through previous posts but couldn't find one discussing my particular needs. So please bear with me if this gets lengthy. This is my first pickup and first time doing a long distance haul.

Truck: 2005, 2500 SLT, QC, LB, 4X4. Stock hitch (attached to frame, hidden under bumper). 4 pin connector. Assuming stock gearing (3.73?). 5.7L. Auto. 285/70/17 tires.

Trailer: 1998 8x24 Cargo Mate. Dual axle. Electric brakes. Tekonsha box. 7 pin round connection. GVWR 7000. Steel body weighing about 3500-4k lbs.

I'm moving from Chicago to San Diego. While I doubt I have 3k lbs of stuff, for arguments sake let's go with towing at full capacity of 7k lbs. I know max towing is 8650 lbs. So from a numbers point I figure I'm ok. I'll be taking the southern route (I8) as to avoid as many mountains as possible. Here's what I need to know.

1. Is that hitch a Class III and strong enough to do the job or should I upgrade? I've read somewhere that the hitches were welded in. But I looked and saw bolts attaching it to the frame. It would suck to have to replace it because it looks like you'd have to remove the bed.

2. Is the 4 pin flat connector enough? I've seen some adapters online to change it to the 7 pin round connection. With that asked/said, what exactly is the need to add a trailer brake controller? Doesn't the trailer get the signal to engage the brakes from the connectors?

3. Do I need to add or upgrade a trans cooler? Differential cover?

4. Do I need to be concerned with a weight distribution setup?

5. I'll be changing all of the fluids. I'm ok with choosing synthetic engine oil, brake fluid, and coolant. I've heard it's a bad idea to get the trans and differential flushed. So draining is the way to go. Do you suggest replacing with synthetic fluids?

6. Should I get temp gauges for trans? Is there a gauge for the differential?

Can you think of anything else mechanical I need to take into consideration that I may have forgotten to mention?

This is a one time, one way haul. I'll be selling the trailer once I get there.

Thanks for your help.
 

usaf2006

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I'll do my best to answer, but others will chime in soon:

Truck: 2005, 2500 SLT, QC, LB, 4X4. Stock hitch (attached to frame, hidden under bumper). 4 pin connector. Assuming stock gearing (3.73? there's a tag on the axle that says what your gearing is. I believe it says "3.5" for 3.55s, etc., or you can google "Ram equipment listing" and put your VIN in the equipment listing box and it will give you a build sheet of what your truck came with from the factory). 5.7L. Auto. 285/70/17 tires.

1. Is that hitch a Class III and strong enough to do the job or should I upgrade? I've read somewhere that the hitches were welded in. But I looked and saw bolts attaching it to the frame. It would suck to have to replace it because it looks like you'd have to remove the bed. The stock hitch should be fine, as long as it's not rusted out, but at that point, your truck is probably rusted too, so I wouldn't worry about that.

2. Is the 4 pin flat connector enough? I've seen some adapters online to change it to the 7 pin round connection. With that asked/said, what exactly is the need to add a trailer brake controller? Doesn't the trailer get the signal to engage the brakes from the connectors? You can get a adapter from walmart for around $10 or so I think. At that price, you might as well have it! I don't know how the trailer braking systems work.

3. Do I need to add or upgrade a trans cooler? Differential cover? If your truck has the hitch from the factory, then you already have a trans cooler. If it's an aftermarket hitch, it's a good idea to have a trans cooler for if and when you hit mountains or big hills. Differential covers, to my knowledge, are really only "worth it" for diesels, as half ton rams don't warm up the differentials like bigger trucks do.

4. Do I need to be concerned with a weight distribution setup? Not sure on this one...

5. I'll be changing all of the fluids. I'm ok with choosing synthetic engine oil, brake fluid, and coolant. I've heard it's a bad idea to get the trans and differential flushed. So draining is the way to go. Do you suggest replacing with synthetic fluids? Go synthetic, it's a little pricier, but better. For the trans, get Mopar filters. For the coolant, make sure you get mopar approved (Zerex G-05) coolant. I got mine at Advanced for about $18 a pre-mixed gallon, or $16 for a concentrate gallon. And you're right, don't get the trans flushed, you'll only cause problems. To my knowledge, there's no such thing as a "diff flush". You can either suck the old fluid out, which is silly, or take the cover off and drain it.

6. Should I get temp gauges for trans? Is there a gauge for the differential? No there's no guage for a diff, that I know of at least. If you have the funds, you should get a trans gauge, at least for this one trip. It probably won't be needed afterwards, but peace of mind is always nice!

As I said, I answered as best I can. I'm by no means an expert, but others who have more experience will chime in soon enough. It might be a good idea to go with some 265/70R17s (load rated) for the trip if you can afford it. They'll help your MPG a little bit, though it will be crap either way, and it'll be less work on the truck than trying to tow with 285s.

Good luck!:happy107:
 

justin13703

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The most important thing that I want to say is, absolutely do NOT pull a 7,000 lb trailer without using trailer brakes. You need a brake controller and a 7 pin plug for this. Simply adapting your 4 pin plug to a 7 pin plug will not give you trailer brakes. You either need to use the factory 7 pin plug (if you have it) or you need to install a 7 pin harness. But either way, you also need a brake controller.

All a 4 pin carries is signal for brake lights and turn signals, and ground. There is no signal in a 4 pin connector to activate trailer brakes. You need a brake controller to output brake voltage through a 7 pin connector to use and regulate the trailer brakes. I just want to emphasize that it will be extremely dangerous to be pulling that trailer around with no brakes, even if it's empty.
 
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MADDOG

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Does your trailer have brakes? That would require the 4-way flat to 7 pin adapter usaf2006 spoke of.

Load distribution - You better pay attention to this. You don't want to overload it on the front (sag, loss of steering control, poor braking) and you don't want it too far to the back or that tail will wag your dog unmercifully until you hit the ditch. Try to equalize the weight on the trailer from front to back. Place as much of the weight over the trailer's axles. So if you have a car on the trailer, straddle the axle centerlines with the car. Set it a little bit towards the back to get the heavier front end of the load nearer to the axles.
 

justin13703

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Does your trailer have brakes? That would require the 4-way flat to 7 pin adapter usaf2006 spoke of.

Load distribution - You better pay attention to this. You don't want to overload it on the front (sag, loss of steering control, poor braking) and you don't want it too far to the back or that tail will wag your dog unmercifully until you hit the ditch. Try to equalize the weight on the trailer from front to back. Place as much of the weight over the trailer's axles. So if you have a car on the trailer, straddle the axle centerlines with the car. Set it a little bit towards the back to get the heavier front end of the load nearer to the axles.

Yes his trailer has brakes. Using a 4 pin to 7 pin adapter will not allow the brakes to work. Just lights.

I would really hate to see this guy go down the road with 7,000 lbs behind his truck and no trailer brakes.
 
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Blade69

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Thanks for all of the responses. I'm glad to know that all I need to buy is the 7 pin adapter and trailer brake controller. I was worried I'd have to get another hitch and start from scratch on the wiring.

USAF2006 - my son is in the AF now. I'm ex-Navy. Thanks for your service and detailed responses.

Justin - Thanks for the clarification on the wiring

Maddox - I know exactly what you're talking about. I'm a truck driver so I know a little about big trailers being loaded improperly.
 

justin13703

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Thanks for all of the responses. I'm glad to know that all I need to buy is the 7 pin adapter and trailer brake controller. I was worried I'd have to get another hitch and start from scratch on the wiring.

USAF2006 - my son is in the AF now. I'm ex-Navy. Thanks for your service and detailed responses.

Justin - Thanks for the clarification on the wiring

Maddox - I know exactly what you're talking about. I'm a truck driver so I know a little about big trailers being loaded improperly.

One option you have for getting a 7 pin harness is this. They make 7 pin plugs that you install on your truck. Your 4 pin plugs into it, and that gets you 4 of the 7 pins. Of the remaining 3, 2 have to be run to the front of the truck and connected manually. They are usually black (12v constant), white (ground), and blue (brake signal). The blue will go to your brake controller. This way, you only have to run and connect 2 wires at the front of the truck, and ground the third at the back. And you will have a 7 pin harness.

Since your 4 pin harness is now involved in powering your 7 pin, if you ever need to tow a trailer with a 4 pin harness, you can either unplug the 4 pin harness from the 7 pin that you installed, or use a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter.
 

RonJon '06

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You'll definitely want to get the brake controller and get it wired properly like Justin says. You could also upgrade the transmission cooler to be on the safe side. The first pick is my factory trans cooler that I got with the tow package, second pick is a 2003 heavy duty trans cooler. It wasn't difficult to install and cost about $225. I'd also check the load range of your tires to make sure they're rated for the weight you'll be hauling.

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Blade69

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Great. Wiring doesn't seem to be difficult. Since I'll be running wires for a backup camera anyway, I can run them all at the same time.

I guess for the added piece of mind, upgrading the trans cooler is worth it.

I found this info about the tires I have. Not sure exactly how to determine if the load rating is enough. Does that mean the rating is per tire so multiply by 4?

The Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S is an all-terrain, on and off-road tire made for SUVs, jeeps and trucks. It provides the driver with good handling capabilities when driving on the highway, or in mild off-road conditions. The Geolandar A/T-S performs well in most weather conditions, including snow.

The 285/70R17 Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S has a diameter of 33.1", a width of 11.3", mounts on a 17" rim and has 628 revolutions per mile. It weighs 54.6 lbs, has a max load of 3195/2910 lbs, a maximum air pressure of 65 psi, a tread depth of 18/32" and should be used on a rim width of 7.5-9".
 

RonJon '06

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Looks like those tires are load range D, not sure but they may be fine. I've always gone with load range E and air them up to 80 psi.
 
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Blade69

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Yes they are D. Which sucks for me because they're practically brand new tires. With that said, can anyone suggest an inexpensive (not necessarily cheap product-wise) tire? Or will any E rated tire work?
 

crash68

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make sure your trailer tires are in good condition, have at least one spare tire for the trailer, and the trailer brake break-away battery is in good condition.
Also have locks for the trailer coupler and chains to lock the wheels together, just in case you have to park and leave the trailer someplace for an extended amount of time(ie: truck breaks down).
 

RonJon '06

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Yes they are D. Which sucks for me because they're practically brand new tires. With that said, can anyone suggest an inexpensive (not necessarily cheap product-wise) tire? Or will any E rated tire work?

I've been getting Firestone TransForce AT for a while now. They've been great for towing heavy loads but my last set only lasted about 50K miles. Going with a smaller diameter tire than your 285s would help with towing as well.
 

justin13703

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Keep in mind that pulling a load doesnt necessarily mean you have gone over the load rating of your tires. You will have to figure out what the loaded tongue weight is, for you to determine what the actual load on the tires is. For example, pulling 5000lbs doesn't mean that there is an additional 5000lb load on the tires. Tongue weight determines that.
 

bulrid8

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D rated tires will handle that load just fine. As said. Get a brake controller and have it wired by someone that knows what they are doing.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
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Blade69

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I have another question. As I mentioned before, I have the stock hitch that goes into the bumper. There is a hole where the ball goes. Now if I put a ball there, it's too high the attach a trailer. So I've seen trucks before that have like a drop hitch (not sure of the actual name) used to lower the ball to the correct height. But they are attached to a 2 inch receiver. What do I need to buy to adapt a drop hitch to my bumper?
 

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Blade69

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So I do need to replace the hitch afterall. Crap. Missed out on a good deal for one a little while ago.

Thanks
 
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