P0524 - Low Oil Pressure

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LegndLarry33

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I know there are a lot of post about this, but I think I've read most of them and am still trying to clarify a few things if there's anyone out there that can help....

2007, 5.7L with MDS, 154k mi... new to me though, I've only had it for about a month...

Was sitting in a drivethru line a few days ago and the light came on... oil pressure never really wavered as far as I can tell.... tried to attach a picture of gauge to show where it usually sits at a warm idle and where it was when the light came on, but couldn't figure out how to do that in the post... the needle is basically just left of the center (12 o'clock) mark.

Read stories of people saying the gauge will drop to zero and bounce back, but I haven't seen that. I've taken 4-5 trips since then and haven't seen the gauge do anything abnormal. Changed the oil yesterday with Mobil 1 High Millage (5W-20), and a MOPAR filter. Based on the sticker that was on the windshield from the previous owner, it looks like it had 5W-30 in it. Light is still on today though.

Questions....

1) I believe there is only 1 sensor, so the same signal that is going to the engine control to set the light is whats driving the gauge, correct? If so, then obviously some level inside of the "acceptable" gauge range is going to trigger the light?

2) The fact that I've never seen anything crazy out of the sensor would lead me to believe that the sensor is fine...?

3) Seems like I might working my way toward a software update (via tsb #1804407)? Which presumably is their (Dodge) way of saying "everything is fine, but we set the range on the signal too tight"?

Appreciate the help
 
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LegndLarry33

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Anyone have any input on this at all? Specifically if there is some other sensor feeding the computer? Seems very unlikely, but I cant wrap my head around why the light would keep coming on when the pressure is above the middle tick-mark (12:00). I have cleared it and it will go away for a while and it's also cleared itself once of twice, but keeps coming back... I also changed the sensor (sending unit) just to rule that out, but the light came back on... is it possible that the low reading occurs for such a short duration that the computer sees it, but the gauge doesn't move?
 

fastf

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Ok you know that the guage is ran by electricity.The sensor could be going bad.A real oil pressure quage uses a fitting on the side of the engine block or where the oil semsor screws in at .The oil line goes up the guage dash or on the drivers door pillar and when you see it move you you got pressure.The person who name a light a idiot light had it right.But that oil guage ain't gonna lie.
 

Ramnewbie

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If you replace you're oil pressure sender I'd get it from the stealer. Been reports of people haveing but or miss success with aftermarket O2, cam, crank, and oil pressure sensors.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
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LegndLarry33

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Thanks - I replaced the sensor with a factory part and still have the issue

Understand the gauge is not mechanical, that's why I'm asking if there could be a disconnect between the computer and what's showing up in the gauge. My understanding of these trucks is that the signal (probably a variable voltage based on varying resistance in the sensor) is read by the computer and a separate signal is sent to the dash to drive the gauge. Obviously the computer thinks that oil pressure is low for some amount of time (so it sets the light), but I'm not seeing it in the (simulated) gauge...
 

fastf

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I wish you could take the computerized oil gauge out and put one mechanical in its place.Like I said the old mechanical gauge ain't gonna lie you will know if the engine is getting oil.Too much computerized junk on todays cars and trucks take them away the thing won't run at all.
 

JunkyardDog

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I have a similar situation. 2007 Ram 1500 5.7L with 165K miles. Again, just bought a few weeks ago. The oil pressure by the gauge looked to be just above the midway point at idle.

Looking through everything I can find on the subject, it looks like the oil pressure is there. It is just the computer is mixed up. I know about the TSB to re-flash that corrects this.

I think what I am going to do is install an extension off of the port. At the end of the extension, I am going to tee off to the electronic sensor and to a mechanical gauge. I might put a long enough reach on the gauge to pull it out from under the hood (clip it to a wiper) when the light comes on to monitor it. I'll be sure to route it away from anything that could breach the hose.

Is there any justification against this idea? Has anybody ever done this and can share their experience?
 

SYKRAMMAN

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Thanks - I replaced the sensor with a factory part and still have the issue

Understand the gauge is not mechanical, that's why I'm asking if there could be a disconnect between the computer and what's showing up in the gauge. My understanding of these trucks is that the signal (probably a variable voltage based on varying resistance in the sensor) is read by the computer and a separate signal is sent to the dash to drive the gauge. Obviously the computer thinks that oil pressure is low for some amount of time (so it sets the light), but I'm not seeing it in the (simulated) gauge...

Try checking the harness ground for that connector, I’ve found a couple bad grounds that affected my cluster gauges.
 

Fitz-0518

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Yep. ground check always first. I understand that our gauges are electronic pulse gauges. A mechanical oil and water gauge has always made sense to me. The A pillar 2 gauge module makes inexpensive sense.
 

SYKRAMMAN

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Yep. ground check always first. I understand that our gauges are electronic pulse gauges. A mechanical oil and water gauge has always made sense to me. The A pillar 2 gauge module makes inexpensive sense.

That’s next on the list when I’m done with shocks is to hook up reliable gauges. I don’t trust my cluster one bit.
 

JunkyardDog

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Where would the ground check be made? Where exactly is the attachment made? Or, does it matter, as long as I find the potential between the battery negative and the wire that should be grounded to be as close to 0 (zero) as possible? I know I should worry a little about ground loops, if I need to bolster the ground some.
 
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LegndLarry33

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The grounding thought is a good one, but whereas the problem seems to be intermittent, I'd expect the ground to be fine when I check it...

Also, now that I've been driving the truck a while longer, and seeing the light come and go a few times on its own, I've realized that the oil pressure seems to be reading low some times at initial start-up. But if I shut it down and immediately restart it, oil pressure is fine. I've literally been watching on every start, and when I see it level off around the halfway point on a cold start, I'll shut it down and restart it. Gauge will then come to rest around 2/3rds (cold) and light stays off.

If its really an electrical issue, perhaps the computer/gauge is not "zero-ing" itself properly during the start, but it seems like there could also be a scenario where perhaps the oil is draining back when sitting for a while and the pump is initially cavitating on the next start? I'm just not smart enough about this specific engine (5.7) lube system to know if this is possible, and/or why it wouldn't eventually fill the system and read correctly after that.

Appreciate the help
 
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