Rear main seal replacement

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Dodge96Ram

Dodge96Ram

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I don't see a problem with it. There wasn't anything to link from this page, someone on another page had a good write up. Benefits everyone here now or in the future, that's what we're all about right?
 

Merc225hp

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I understand.

I could link people left right and center to other forums to help them but I take the time to write it out as best I can and supply photo's if possible. I don't think I have ever linked to another forum. RF needs some basic Diy's on this kind of stuff and its up to the members to help get them posted so as we can support other members right here on RF not send them off other places where they might stay. Your doing this job now no better time to make a Diy for RF.

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Silver Tex

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Pull the starter, remove the tranny inspection cover, remove both braces that go from the motor to the tranny, remove the dipstick from the tube, drop the oil pan, remove oil pump, remove main cap, remove rear main seal. Install upper part of the rear seal and then clock it so that the seam is not the same as the cap/block, install the lower part of the seal onto the crank, install main cap and tq to spec.

5.9 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolts .... 115 N®m (85 ft. lbs.)
5.2 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolts .... 115 N*m (85 ft. lbs.)

Good Morning Merc,
When you say "clock" the seal, I assume it to mean do not align the ends of the seal with the face of the block/pan mating surface. This would mean to me that a portion of the upper part of new seal projecting below the block/pan mating surface as well as opposite end recessed.

Are there additional "tips/tricks" when installing the main cap and lower seal element other than sealant you advised on each end and lubing the seal itself? I ask, because I assume the lower section of the seal is imbedded in the main cap and therefore will require some initial alignment to the "clocking". Is there risk of damaging the portion of the seal that must be pushed up into recess to mate with the respective end of the upper, "clocked" seal?

Thank you!
Scott.
 

Merc225hp

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I made that sound easy but yes take your time as the lower part of the seal (on the crank) must fit into the main cap as its put on. I have had luck installing the seal in the cap clocking it and then installing the cap, try whatever way works best for you.
 

Silver Tex

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So I did the rear main seal tonight. Don't have the pan back on yet. Apparently it was just practice because I think I need to take it all back apart tomorrow and turn it around. :Stupid Me:

I have a Timken seal, which does not have any paint or instruction for which way to face the seal. I'm pretty sure I put it in backwards based on some web pic's I've found, but are not conclusive. There is a bigger side (more robust looking or primary seal rib if you will) and a smaller side. I put the bigger side of the seal towards the back of the engine. I get the feeling that the smaller side should be toward the back of the engine. See my crude drawing of the seal profile.

What is the deal with the RTV on main cap? Manual says to fill the machined slot in the cap with RTV in addition to the dab of flange sealer???? Is this correct?

Anyone have any experience with Timken seals. It's good and lubed up so I think it should come out and still be good to reinstall. Anybody care to weigh in?
 

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