Replacing factory alpine sub

[jloucks742]

doing some reading it seems like a lot of people are going with the JL stealth box. Not a big fan of factory alpine sub. Will this setup require a new amp or can you still utilize all the factory parts? I am by far not audio savvy at all so have no idea what I’m doing

http://www.jlaudio.com/sb-d-qdram-10w3v3-car-audio-stealthbox-94049

 

[Kapt]

Try it without an amp. You can always add one later if you don't like how it sounds

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I believe the factory Alpine is dual 1ohm sub. The JL you listed is wired for 2ohm. You will lose half the power of the amp, but it might work as you are using a different box.

 

[TomT]

I believe the factory Alpine is dual 1ohm sub. The JL you listed is wired for 2ohm. You will lose half the power of the amp, but it might work as you are using a different box.

I have the 2015 factory Alpine sub in my garage. I'll put a meter on it to measure the load. I want to say it's a self powered sub, but I can't remember for sure.

 

[damnimcooltom]

With my experience with other Stealthboxes, I doubt the power going into the stock 8" sub will be anywhere close enough to get any real sound out of it. The stock 8: also has two inputs, so that will probably be an issue, too.

 

[TomT]

The Alpine enclosure has a four pin connector. I put a meter on them and got 4 ohms from the two right hand pins. Not really sure what that means since I did not take it apart to trace where those wires went.

Here are a few pictures just for fun.

 

[TomT]

If your budget allows, you can get a clean signal using the PAC Audio interface and then feed your amp and subwoofer. I've always liked the JL Stealthboxes. They are very well built and normally sound pretty great. The downside is that they are a bit more expensive than putting together something else. You're paying for the JL quality and engineering that make sure the sub and box work together perfectly.

Link to the PAC: https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41

 

[Witch]

I went with factory box upgrade with the LC2i and Rockford 250 watt amp

If I could part with my fold down I would go with the 10 as well

 

[blackbetty14]

How much sound are you trying to get? The factory Apline sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil. Means its got 2 hook ups inside (one for each 2ohm coil). If you were to upgrade you would have to get the same or the stock system will be compromised. The factory system sends about 150w RMS to the sub I believe and its no "slouch" for alittle 8". The problem is that the box can't handle much more power if any.

you have 2 options.

1.) Replace with a new box and sub, get a clean signal to an external amp, wire and power said amp and you can have your choice or sub, size and power.
2.) Upgrade the stock sub to a better 8" and get alittle more out of it if its just alittle more that you want.

I did the 2nd, reason being the stock system really isnt that bad. The upgraded sub makes tighter/cleaner bass than the OE sub. You can only really choose between 2 subs with the same dual 2 ohm voice coil for it to be plug and play with some Metra adapters. I went with the pioneer Ib Flat series as it basically drops right into the stock shallow box. Its def an upgrade to my 18 with the apline system and I'm happy with the stock system. Ive also added JBL clubs to the dash (all 3) and JBL club 6x9 in the rear doors, everything plug and play with adapters. Makes a noticable difference in sound!

This is coming from my 14 crew cab which I had upgraded all the speakers, ran a scoche LOC to a pionner 1400w class D amp with a single 12" sub under the rear pass seat (same series Pioneer Ib Flat shallow sub) and that thing kicked pretty hard.

Theres alot of extra work and money that does into changing out the sub system so if you go that route be ready to drop some coin. I went the cheaper route:
$50 amazon sub box for RAM (had to modify to work with the 13" sub)
$70 in welding cable 4 gauge, 100amp breaker and cable ends etc
$30 Soche LOC
$110 Pioneer 12" sub
$100 Pionner 1400w Amp (300w RMS at 4 ohm, or 500w at 2 ohm)
$10 in miscellaneous (spacers for rear seat to fit the sub box)
$370 roughly is what it would cost, plus running all the wiring etc

Just saying it could get expensive depending on what you want!

 

[16WhiteQC]

You will not get much out of the stealth without a good 500W amp!

How much sound are you trying to get? The factory Apline sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil. Means its got 2 hook ups inside (one for each 2ohm coil). If you were to upgrade you would have to get the same or the stock system will be compromised. The factory system sends about 150w RMS to the sub I believe and its no "slouch" for alittle 8". The problem is that the box can't handle much more power if any.

you have 2 options.

1.) Replace with a new box and sub, get a clean signal to an external amp, wire and power said amp and you can have your choice or sub, size and power.
2.) Upgrade the stock sub to a better 8" and get alittle more out of it if its just alittle more that you want.

I did the 2nd, reason being the stock system really isnt that bad. The upgraded sub makes tighter/cleaner bass than the OE sub. You can only really choose between 2 subs with the same dual 2 ohm voice coil for it to be plug and play with some Metra adapters. I went with the pioneer Ib Flat series as it basically drops right into the stock shallow box. Its def an upgrade to my 18 with the apline system and I'm happy with the stock system. Ive also added JBL clubs to the dash (all 3) and JBL club 6x9 in the rear doors, everything plug and play with adapters. Makes a noticable difference in sound!

This is coming from my 14 crew cab which I had upgraded all the speakers, ran a scoche LOC to a pionner 1400w class D amp with a single 12" sub under the rear pass seat (same series Pioneer Ib Flat shallow sub) and that thing kicked pretty hard.

Theres alot of extra work and money that does into changing out the sub system so if you go that route be ready to drop some coin. I went the cheaper route:
$50 amazon sub box for RAM (had to modify to work with the 13" sub)
$70 in welding cable 4 gauge, 100amp breaker and cable ends etc
$30 Soche LOC
$110 Pioneer 12" sub
$100 Pionner 1400w Amp (300w RMS at 4 ohm, or 500w at 2 ohm)
$10 in miscellaneous (spacers for rear seat to fit the sub box)
$370 roughly is what it would cost, plus running all the wiring etc

Just saying it could get expensive depending on what you want!

I did #2 as well and could not be happier.

I am coming from an 08 QC with a Stealthbox and while the new truck with upgraded sub does not go as deep or loud it really cleaned up the factory system to where I no longer feel the need to upgrade the system.

#2 is only about $100, it is cleaner/tighter base for sure.

 

[Mleads310]

How much sound are you trying to get? The factory Apline sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil. Means its got 2 hook ups inside (one for each 2ohm coil). If you were to upgrade you would have to get the same or the stock system will be compromised. The factory system sends about 150w RMS to the sub I believe and its no "slouch" for alittle 8". The problem is that the box can't handle much more power if any.

you have 2 options.

1.) Replace with a new box and sub, get a clean signal to an external amp, wire and power said amp and you can have your choice or sub, size and power.
2.) Upgrade the stock sub to a better 8" and get alittle more out of it if its just alittle more that you want.

I did the 2nd, reason being the stock system really isnt that bad. The upgraded sub makes tighter/cleaner bass than the OE sub. You can only really choose between 2 subs with the same dual 2 ohm voice coil for it to be plug and play with some Metra adapters. I went with the pioneer Ib Flat series as it basically drops right into the stock shallow box. Its def an upgrade to my 18 with the apline system and I'm happy with the stock system. Ive also added JBL clubs to the dash (all 3) and JBL club 6x9 in the rear doors, everything plug and play with adapters. Makes a noticable difference in sound!

This is coming from my 14 crew cab which I had upgraded all the speakers, ran a scoche LOC to a pionner 1400w class D amp with a single 12" sub under the rear pass seat (same series Pioneer Ib Flat shallow sub) and that thing kicked pretty hard.

Theres alot of extra work and money that does into changing out the sub system so if you go that route be ready to drop some coin. I went the cheaper route:
$50 amazon sub box for RAM (had to modify to work with the 13" sub)
$70 in welding cable 4 gauge, 100amp breaker and cable ends etc
$30 Soche LOC
$110 Pioneer 12" sub
$100 Pionner 1400w Amp (300w RMS at 4 ohm, or 500w at 2 ohm)
$10 in miscellaneous (spacers for rear seat to fit the sub box)
$370 roughly is what it would cost, plus running all the wiring etc

Just saying it could get expensive depending on what you want!

I know this is an old thread, but any chance you have the model number for those pioneer Ib Flat series? I did a quick Google search and nothing is coming up on those. Looking to order the exact same sub for replacement and just want to make sure I getting the correct one. Thanks in advance.

 

[blackbetty14]

Pioneer 8" shallow sub TS-SW2002D2

 

[Kilrroy]

What is the connector I would need in order to connect a new enclosure to the existing cable? A 4-pin to flying lead ...

thanks

 

[Kilrroy]

... also, what is the pin out for the 4 wires?

thanks again - sorry to spam the thread