Rusty Freeze Plugs replacement

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BradTN

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Ram Year
1995
Engine
5.2
Greetings, forum members.

I'm new to this forum. I recently acquired a '95 Ram 1500 SCSB with the 5.2 engine, with a little over 200K on it, for $300., because it had leaking freeze plugs. This thread will be a brief study of freeze plug replacement with the engine still in the truck. In my case, the lowest block plugs seem to be the only leakers so far.

This is the Truck. Other than a little "Bodywork" on the lower passenger back end, the body is in pretty good condition. Interior is good also. The truck seems to be worth working on.
 

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BradTN

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So, I put the Ram front end on some ramps and, with a jack under the oil pan, I removed the starter, driver side engine mount and tranny to block brace, to gain access to the left side lower block plugs. The driver side plug under the engine mount was leaking the worst. If I could back up, I would have pressure washed the lower engine block area, as the valve covers seem to have been leaking for awhile.

Plugs removed by using about a 2.5 foot long solid round bar of about 3/4" diameter to drive the plugs into the cooling passages and then using pliers to pull them out. Some contortions are required with the axle and such in the way.
I also removed the steel 1/4 pipe drain plug.
 

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BradTN

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The block had lots of "mud" in it...rust sediment that is, so I flushed that out with a garden hose. I got a little wet doing that from under the truck. I cleaned up the plug bores with fine sandpaper and solvent. I then used the round bar and socket/washers etc. to drive the new plugs in. I had a hard time finding individual brass freeze plugs, but I did find two of them to put under the engine mounts because those are the hardest to get to. I started with the shallow 1 5/8" plugs like were original, but I had a hard time driving those in straight with the awkward angles involved in the driving in process. I would recommend the deep plugs, as I found those to be easier to drive in straight. I also got some brass 1/4 pipe drain plugs to put back instead of the steel. I Used Loctite 545 thread sealant on all the plugs, as it's supposed to be non-fouling, therefore not shedding particles to block small passage ways in the cooling system. I suppose non-hardening Permatex would work also. I don't think RTV is the best idea, as it could shed hardened particles. For others doing this job, your truck, your call.
 

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BradTN

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I cleaned up the mount and brace before re-installing those and the starter on the drivers side. I like to put back clean parts. I had to use various combinations of extensions, swivels and sockets to remove and install parts.

Now, on to the passenger side.
 

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BradTN

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On the right side, more of the same, but I had to take the tie rod loose on the right end to be able to reach and work on the front plug. I flushed this side of the block passage ways with the garden hose also. The sediment was bad. A previous owner apparently didn't maintain the cooling system very well, or at all !

I should also mention that the water pump had been replaced at some earlier point in time because the pump impellers had rusted away and were not circulating coolant properly.

Also a pic of the rusty freeze plugs. Ugly !
 

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BradTN

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Ram Year
1995
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5.2
Put the passenger side mount and brace back into place and the tie rod back together with a new cotter pin. Put the truck back on the ground and the engine holds coolant now. I'm in the process of flushing the system with Cascade Dishwasher soap and Prestone super flush.

That's about it.

I hope most of you won't have to do this job. All it takes is proper cooling system maintenance. Change that coolant at the proper intervals and this should never happen. Later, Brad.
 

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