Spark Plug Change DIY

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msorbara10

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anyone know the proper spark plug gap for the hemi? I can seem to find it
 

SmokedRam

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The third gen Hemi's used Champion copper as the OEM plug, which are gapped at 0.045". the fourth gen, now use NGK Nickels, which like you say are gapped at 0.044"...

I would assume the gap is a little tighter due to the V-electrode on the NGK's.
 

smiley

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Sorry about that using tapatalk did not see 3rd gen.


$miley
 

SmokedRam

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Oh you're right though, even in the Gen3 trucks the gap on the NGK V Powers is 0.044", even though the gap on the Champion plugs is 0.045"
 

Roll_HEMI_Tide

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Doesn't look to be a big deal. I've changed plugs many times, but the idea of changing 16 scares me. I don't know why. I've always had the fear of shearing a plug and the ******* being stuck in there.

Maybe once it warms up outside, I'll grow some cajones and tackle it myself. However, my mechanic did quote me an even $200 for it.
 

OGsohcHondaLOVE

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I noticed that someone had asked how to get the plugs out because they were having troubles. I haven't done it on this engine yet but every other vehicle i've ever worked on I have use a small section of fuel line that will slide right down over the top of the plug. the ID must be small enough to catch the porcelain portion of the plug on the top.

I have always been an NGK guy, what part # do you guys usually run for the hemi? I have the 07MDS version.
 

ChicagoRam

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I noticed that someone had asked how to get the plugs out because they were having troubles. I haven't done it on this engine yet but every other vehicle i've ever worked on I have use a small section of fuel line that will slide right down over the top of the plug. the ID must be small enough to catch the porcelain portion of the plug on the top.

I have always been an NGK guy, what part # do you guys usually run for the hemi? I have the 07MDS version.

The plug is an NGK LZFR5C-11, and the OEM part # SPLZFR5C11 is NGK LZFR5C-11.

BTW, the plug is plated so there is no need to use anti-seize on the threads, as a matter of fact the anti-seize could cause an over torquing of the plug.
 

Unfused

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Damn... I didn't even know plugs were supposed to be changed unless they were causing problems. I'm up to 167000km's and never changed them nor has my mechanic ever recommended I do so. Haha. Well, maybe I should go and do that.

About the anti seize... Some say yes and now some say no... Should I do 50/50? :p
 

ZakkBaker

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Is it the same concept for the 4.7? And like Unfused said, I've got a ton of miles on mine. How often should they be replaceD?
 

fonzyn75

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i like to do mine every 30,000 miles idk what the manufacture suggests
 

rammedifiknow

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cmon man!

If you are changing like you are supposed to every 30k no point in wasting time with antiseize. If you want to go ahead though. It is actually easy just a bit of a hassle just make sure you have different length extensions and it is a breeze.

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

you wouldn't take the extra 5 minutes to put a lil anti-seize on your new plugs? really? wow! how bout you take a minute and do things right, instead of steering people in the wrong direction (your direction). ive seen a couple posts by you now and its seems you like to skip the real easy 2 minute things, because you think its not needed.

whats a couple of minutes on a 2 hour job? :untitled:
 

smiley

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It is also not recommended because people over torque the plugs you can be mad. You can try to attack me personally but it not going to be a huge benefit on a plug with coating to prevent seize anyway. As we established prior to your post we don't always agree on here but what I can tell you is we still respect each other.

Welcome to the forum.


$miley
 

SilsHemi

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you wouldn't take the extra 5 minutes to put a lil anti-seize on your new plugs? really? wow! how bout you take a minute and do things right, instead of steering people in the wrong direction (your direction). ive seen a couple posts by you now and its seems you like to skip the real easy 2 minute things, because you think its not needed.

whats a couple of minutes on a 2 hour job? :untitled:

Making friends fast, huh?

He's absolutely right about over torquing the plugs with anti-seize.
 

rammedifiknow

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yeah, cuz thats why im here. lol

lets rebuild an engine and use the ol' gaskets! hahaha

love will keep us together
:love62:
 

smiley

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lets rebuild an engine and use the ol' gaskets! hahaha

love will keep us together
:love62:

Not impressed move on already. Your analogy is not even applicable. If you don't have something positive to contribute I don't see why you are posting in here. This is a really nice DIY and my point was spark plugs with anti-seize coating don't need more anti-seize. You disagree well that is great just say that.
 

Bdroddy

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Smiley, I'm at 26k right now and I'm ordering my plugs now. Can you recommend a wrench/socket set from autozone to do the job.
 

smiley

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All you will need is 3/8" rachet, two extensions one 2 or 3" and one 4 or 5". Then also the standard spark plug socket 5/8". To take off the coil packs you will need 10mm socket if I recall. You will also want either a flat head screwdriver or a 8mm socket to remove the intake tube from throttle body. It is pretty easy with these items you just need to mix and match to get the plugs out and then back in again. Probably about an hour of time depending your comfort level could be less or more.


$miley
 

Redtruck-VA

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I use a thick towel laying across the radiator and just craw up in there to reach the rear ones. Not that uncomfortable for an old fat guy. The gap generally grows .001" for every 2000 miles. Good luck.
 
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