Spark Plug Change DIY

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Harley Harrold

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The heater hose clamp bracket can be pulled straight out, then raise the hoses away from the coil, let the bracket rest on top of the mounting stud or tie them up out of the way. I also raise the wiring loom up to the EGR tube or to some other point so it stays up out of the way. This makes the coil & spark plug removal very easy.
 

Redtruck-VA

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Yep pull the hoses and harness out of the way. The boots on the coils are flexible so bending them is not a problem.
 

Thundergun

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Great thanks guys.

So your saying to pull the hoses out of the way by pulling the bracket (that holds them) straight out of the firewall? I gave an easy tug and it certainly did not seem like it wanted to come out. I'd really hate to brake that piece. usually these types of clips have a release ,but i dont' see anything??

And i assume the bracket stays with the hoses and comes out of the firewall correct? or do the hoses disconnect from the bracket?

Thanks guys!!
 

Harley Harrold

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Great thanks guys.

So your saying to pull the hoses out of the way by pulling the bracket (that holds them) straight out of the firewall? I gave an easy tug and it certainly did not seem like it wanted to come out. I'd really hate to brake that piece. usually these types of clips have a release ,but i dont' see anything??

And i assume the bracket stays with the hoses and comes out of the firewall correct? or do the hoses disconnect from the bracket?

Thanks guys!!

Yes the bracket just slides onto the stud, when you are done just push it back to the firewall on the stud, it will stay in place. You do NOT need to remove the hoses from the bracket.
 
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CorDog009

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If I remember correctly, you can unhook that clamp around the hoses and move them out of the way. I did it to mine somehow, it was fairly simple once I figured out how the clamp opened up.
 

usaf2006

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When you're putting the new ones in. Why is it important to put them back in in reverse order?
And to make sure I got this right lol... if you took them out left to right. Youd put them back in right to left?
 

Harley Harrold

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Because no two coils are identical, it is recommended to reinstall the coils on the same cylinder they were removed. That is why they say to do one coil at a time so you don't get them mixed up. On the drivers side it is easier to take out both the rear coils together as it makes it easier to get to the plugs. Just keep the coils separate so they can go back in the same position they were originally.
 

Harley Harrold

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When you're putting the new ones in. Why is it important to put them back in in reverse order?
And to make sure I got this right lol... if you took them out left to right. Youd put them back in right to left?

Reverse order just means, disconnect coil electrical connector, remove coil, blow out anything that might be in the plug wells, remove old spark plugs, install new spark plugs, reinstall coil, & reconnect the electrical connector, then repeat on next cylinder.
 

Redtruck-VA

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From my own experience I usually do one side at a time removing the front coils first and working my way to the rear. This gives me clearance especially on the drivers side. Then work my way back toward the front reassembling everything. I don't specifically keep track of where the coils come from, but inspect each coil for damage. Earlier this year when working with the Megasquirt tuner I burned up two coils and simply replaced them. Typically when diagnosing a misfire I'll move coils around to see if the DTC will follow. Spark plugs I keep in order to read. But I usually don't reuse spark plugs and if I do I don't pay attention where they go as I've already inspected them. I'm also using the 6.1 coils so maintenance is a little easier. Bottom line is do it the way that is easiest for you.
This is all I use to remove all of my spark plugs. Got it at Advance Auto.

opy6.jpg
 

usaf2006

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Reverse order just means, disconnect coil electrical connector, remove coil, blow out anything that might be in the plug wells, remove old spark plugs, install new spark plugs, reinstall coil, & reconnect the electrical connector, then repeat on next cylinder.

Gotcha. Just got a little confused reading it u guess haha. Good advice though. Next week im doing tire rotation. Oil change and plugs so its gonna be long day...
 

Thundergun

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Yes the bracket just slides onto the stud, when you are done just push it back to the firewall on the stud, it will stay in place. You do NOT need to remove the hoses from the bracket.

Thanks for the info! I'll be giving it a try sometime this weekend.
 

Harley Harrold

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For all those who will be replacing the spark plugs themselves, a quick note, because the cylinder heads are made of aluminum, and the spark plugs are steel, DO NOT attempt to change the spark plugs on a hot or warm engine! It is best if the engine is completely COLD before performing this routine maintenance.
 

resource

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Couple more tips on hemi plug removal

Thanks for the tips here. I have a 2004 Ram with 195,000 miles on original plugs. Yes was a bit apprehensive to change. Was sure they would be seized in tight. Over the last 2 month was getting some chugging, mis fires, did not need a computer code to figure just maybe the plugs were due lol

What I found helped, especially on 4 plugs under brake booster, I used 3/8 drive spark plug socket and 3 inch extension then added an adapter to 1/2 inch drive, this gave me more clearance over the head and the 1/2 inch ratchet a bit more leverage.

I also removed wires the day before, blew out dirt with air compressor and soaked plugs for 24 hours with liquid wrench. I used paper towels rolled like a rolling pin to soak up liquid wrench before removing plugs, although I could not do this on 4 under brake booster.

Some were pretty tight. I used permatex anti seize - thought I owed it this much

BTW the original plugs were champion copper - I replace with the same, no doubt I will always use champion now
 

rocket

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Doesn't look to be a big deal. I've changed plugs many times, but the idea of changing 16 scares me. I don't know why. I've always had the fear of shearing a plug and the ******* being stuck in there.

Maybe once it warms up outside, I'll grow some cajones and tackle it myself. However, my mechanic did quote me an even $200 for it.

came here too find the correct gap.......045.
also a piece of garden hose will work wonders in getting the spark plugs out of the hole, and to reinsert as well, btw.
good right up......haven't heard from the op in quite some time:favorites13:
 

MegaMouseGW

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One other thing to do that the dealership recommended to me: before installing the new plugs, coat the threads with never seize. Either the normal grey or the copper colored.
 

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One other thing to do that the dealership recommended to me: before installing the new plugs, coat the threads with never seize. Either the normal grey or the copper colored.

Yep, the dealership is always on top of their game. :)
 
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rocket

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yeah,just a dab will do ya....really important with the extended sleeve type plugs, .but only on the sleeve not the threads on those type plugs...(ford mustang for example). But Our(my) plugs use just a dab , not coated.
 

rocket

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You just wanna make the next change easier,too much cant be a good thing.,Imo.
 
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