Spoon bars clunking

[R/T_Fire]

I'll stay away from the Ballistic FAB Joints. They use the same type/design of locking mechanism on the uniball. Threads = bad.

Maybe the Ballistic joints work great for Off Road, but that's not what I use my truck for. The Poly units will last about 6 months on a daily driver as well.

The Currie Johnny Joints are designed for Rear ends, and used in a lot of high HP drag race and autocross cars. They have to be pressed together, and use an industry standard snap ring.

Yeah 4x4 and drag worlds are similar but yet different.

Was just throwing a suggestion out there to get others to see what else is out there to spark their research engine. But I agree and didn't think of it at the time about the Johnny Joints, They are a great product and I have used them for custom front control arms for a Ram I built years ago when the Superlift arms kept cracking.

 

[Ak47bravo]

SKWURLZ, those look great!
I like my spohns but the adjustment and clunking is annoying, im thinking it may be other susp geometry related which may explain why some have issues and others dont. When i stretched mine to oush the axle back is when alot of the clunk began. But thats a whole other discussion.

For those wondering where to source parts from to make your own look into ballisticfabrication.com
Here is their bad ass joint.... 3.0" Forged Ultra Duty Ballistic Joint

You could also use this one at the frame to help witg vibration but still get the benefit of the adjustable rod end or heim style joint at the other.
Ballistic Forged Poly Bushing 2.63"


There are many 4x4 crawler websites that will send you the parts you need to make your own HD arms.


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So are you saying that centering your axle actually creates clunking sound ( or more clunking) than not?

Could you perhaps adjust your spohn arms for correct pinion angle but do not move the axle as far forward to eliminate or at least decrease excess strain/clunking on the joints?

 

[Ak47bravo]

Being installed tonight. They are full 4130 Chromoly, and heavy as hell. However, I drag race my truck frequently, and need something heavy duty.
I have the specs, and if these work, intend on making them available. They aren't cheap, as each joint is approx $60. The threaded weld in bungs are another $35 each.
The chromoly was $15 per foot.

My thought was to offer the welded up tubes, and end users can source thier own ends. I went with Currie Johnny Joints, but you could also use FK Rod Ends if someone was so inclined.

Next project is upper front control Arms with Uniballs for us lowered trucks.

As far as I am concerned, I would definitely be willing to spend some extra money to get a good set-up on upper/lower rear control arms to avoid constant adjustment/issues. One thing that is so frustrating for me and these trucks, is that there does not seem to be real solid/quality lowering components.

There are issues with the Belltech 2/4, McGaughy 2/4, Spohn arms, etc. I guess from my previous vehicles I am so used to a very solid aftermarket with well designed components that do not have issues (at least not many, and definitely not so soon after being installed)

If an issue with the spohn arms is that the joint loosens, could using a stronger locktite (spelling?) resolve that issue? Or are the forces at play too great and would overcome it.

 

[R/T_Fire]

So are you saying that centering your axle actually creates clunking sound ( or more clunking) than not?

Could you perhaps adjust your spohn arms for correct pinion angle but do not move the axle as far forward to eliminate or at least decrease excess strain/clunking on the joints?

Its hard to say yes or no, I'm inclined to say no but in my case yes... confusing I know.... There are so many variables its hard to pin point the clunk, It didn't start really bad till I adjusted to center the axle in the wheel well. But in doing that my springs have been put into a not so ideal misalignment between the frame spring cup and axle spring cup. I plan to remedy this now that I don't need my truck every day...

I have checked and rechecked my arms and they are all solid and tight... I think for me its the spring popping in the cup that I need to fix before I damage the spring.

But looking at SKWURLZ arms, I am far more impressed with them than the spohns. but dont get me wrong I think the spohns are a great product but just may not fit everyones set up the same.

 

[SKWURLZ]

I have the non adjustable Spohn Arms, and the clunk. The clunk can be eliminated by adjusting the tension on the Delsphere Joint.

It was annoying having to adjust it every month. (I drive 80 miles a day)
Then, the Delsphere joints failed on me, 2 different times, both at the dragstrip, and both different joints.

After the first failure I rebuilt all the joints with new bushing cups. 4 were cracked.
After the second failure, I repaired the joint in the field with a BFH. When I got home, I put the factory arms back in, and made new ones using Johnny Joints and chromoly.

So far, no more clunk, way stiff, and no high speed wobble. I do still need to set pinion angle though.

 

[R/T_Fire]

I have the non adjustable Spohn Arms, and the clunk. The clunk can be eliminated by adjusting the tension on the Delsphere Joint.

It was annoying having to adjust it every month. (I drive 80 miles a day)
Then, the Delsphere joints failed on me, 2 different times, both at the dragstrip, and both different joints.

After the first failure I rebuilt all the joints with new bushing cups. 4 were cracked.
After the second failure, I repaired the joint in the field with a BFH. When I got home, I put the factory arms back in, and made new ones using Johnny Joints and chromoly.

So far, no more clunk, way stiff, and no high speed wobble. I do still need to set pinion angle though.

I really like your custom set up, and will be making my own similar to yours. I was first planning on using the spohns when I redo the geometry. Nothing wrong with them for others but I think I will exceed their limits when I'm done and the trach hits the Auto-X track eventually

 

[razor1]

My springs are set off center also. But my clunking is coming from the Spohn joints. At this time , this was my 4th go around adjusting the joints. The clunking goes away every time I make the adjustments. It normally takes about 2 hours each time for the adjustments. I will more than likely follow R/T Fire with replacing these soon if they start clunking again.

 

[R/T_Fire]

My springs are set off center also. But my clunking is coming from the Spohn joints. At this time , this was my 4th go around adjusting the joints. The clunking goes away every time I make the adjustments. It normally takes about 2 hours each time for the adjustments. I will more than likely follow R/T Fire with replacing these soon if they start clunking again.

When I got in and really adjusted the arms the last time, they were "tight" after the first 5k break in.

One was a little loose but not bad.. I was afraid to tighten them more to break something but this next go round I plan to get a little more exact then "tight" and use a T-wrench and mount them in a vise and put them to a specific torq then set the screw. and see how long it lasts.

does the offset spring bother you at all like it does me? once I set it to where I am now I noticed a bouncier ride then before.... also my bumps are right where the bracket changes direction so I want to get in there and re-align things by moving and welding things in place to keep it perpendicular to the frame and axle.

 

[razor1]

I cut the bump stops cups off and am using the bump stops from a McG's kit. The spring position does not seem to give me any more bounce then stock, really mine seems less stock after the Belltech install, all spohn arms, panhard and Hellwig sway.
The last time I tightened the arms , I got them as tight as possible by having them on the bench by hand. I too did not want to over tighten them and break something.

 

[moregrip]

The arms should be removed from the truck to adjust. You can do it one end at a time by removing one bolt, and dropping them while leaving them on, but its a PITA to hold them while you tighten them up.

Good luck. Many people don't have any problems. But adjusting all the time, and the 2nd failure made me find an alternative.

1st and foremost, those look fantastic and could probably survive a nuclear detonation! Great job!

2nd, what made you design completely new arm vs. just replacing the ends on the spohn arms with a different type? I'm not poking, just curious if there was something else bugging you about the spohn arms or maybe they just left a bad taste in your mouth with the failures.........I understand either way......and then sometimes you just want something strong so you'll never have to worry about it.

btw, thanks for sharing, they look awesome man!

 

[moregrip]

I cut the bump stops cups off and am using the bump stops from a McG's kit. The spring position does not seem to give me any more bounce then stock, really mine seems less stock after the Belltech install, all spohn arms, panhard and Hellwig sway.
The last time I tightened the arms , I got them as tight as possible by having them on the bench by hand. I too did not want to over tighten them and break something.

Curious on your thoughts here.......Is the threaded adjustment plate backing off or is the delrin bushing wearing out that requires these frequent adjustment?

 

[SKWURLZ]

The adjustment plate uses a set screw, so it technically can't spin out, however it can deflect and pop out completely. Happened to me twice.

 

[SKWURLZ]

1st and foremost, those look fantastic and could probably survive a nuclear detonation! Great job!

2nd, what made you design completely new arm vs. just replacing the ends on the spohn arms with a different type? I'm not poking, just curious if there was something else bugging you about the spohn arms or maybe they just left a bad taste in your mouth with the failures.........I understand either way......and then sometimes you just want something strong so you'll never have to worry about it.

btw, thanks for sharing, they look awesome man!

Spohn Arms are Welded Delsphere cups/ends. You can't remove them. I could have cut them off, but then they are just steel tubes... I would have still had to buy the joints and thread bungs, and would have been stuck with stepping down to 3/4" rod ends. I went with 1" rod end Currie Johnny Joints, which are also rebuild-able, but require a press fit.

 

[moregrip]

Spohn Arms are Welded Delsphere cups/ends. You can't remove them. I could have cut them off, but then they are just steel tubes... I would have still had to buy the joints and thread bungs, and would have been stuck with stepping down to 3/4" rod ends. I went with 1" rod end Currie Johnny Joints, which are also rebuild-able, but require a press fit.

gotchya......makes sense. What did Spohn say about this situation, if anything?

 

[SKWURLZ]

gotchya......makes sense. What did Spohn say about this situation, if anything?

Gave me an RMA number and had me send them back. Standup company, I think I just overpowered the design. Some have great luck, some not so much.

 

[razor1]

jury still out on the Spohn arms. Four rounds of adjustments in 4000 miles. Granted I drive on some pretty ****** roads in the city.

 

[DougM55]

Skwurlz, what are you using for a panhard bar? Did you make your own?


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[Ak47bravo]

jury still out on the Spohn arms. Four rounds of adjustments in 4000 miles. Granted I drive on some pretty ****** roads in the city.

Holy ****... 4 rounds of adjustments in just 4000 miles? To me that seems like a huge headache... Definitely makes me nervous about my spohn arms...

 

[SKWURLZ]

Skwurlz, what are you using for a panhard bar? Did you make your own?
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Using the Spohn Panhard bar. Its Poly Bushed at the ends, and I haven't had any issues with it. Not a huge fan of the way they have the adjustment, but, it hasn't failed or had issue, other than a lock nut backing off, but that was my fault for not using blue locktite. I might make my own using heims though, and powdercoat it Orange.

 

[R/T_Fire]

Using the Spohn Panhard bar. Its Poly Bushed at the ends, and I haven't had any issues with it. Not a huge fan of the way they have the adjustment, but, it hasn't failed or had issue, other than a lock nut backing off, but that was my fault for not using blue locktite. I might make my own using heims though, and powdercoat it Orange.

Did you ever see the one DavidRam made? And with your fab skills, have you thought about doing a watts link instead ?