Synthetic Motor Oil Poll 2017

[knightjp]

Can you even get lubegard biotech?

I don't really know. Honestly, I'm not confident on that.

Because the viscosity starts high, I do think it is a good choice to keep hemi tick away, is that what we are doing?

So you think that Motul 300V 5W40 should be a good choice in keeping the HEMI tick away?
At this point, having experienced the HEMI tick, I'm interested in finding an oil that will prevent the tick from happening again, and prevent the tick from ever happening on a new vehicle.
Right now, as far as I know, only Redline 5W30 is the one that gives me that.

Unless there are users who have been using something like Amsoil or something else for years (without any additives) and never had the dreaded tick.

If hemi tick isnt the concern, then we can go in another direction.

OK.. What direction is that?

 

[Burla]

Motul 300v will be your best shot at killing tick or keeping it away, of course this is theory, but it is a redline clone. If it were me, I would run that 5w40 300v. Next chance you get at redline, buy a lot, lol. Does nick @ gotexhaust do international ship? might cost you though.

The other option is lubegard biotech and any shelf oil, poor mans redline.

 

[knightjp]

Does Lubegard actually work?
How much would I need for a stand oil change on 5.7 Hemi? Possibly could use that combined with Mopar 5w30 and call it a day - in case Redline is not in stock again.

However it is good to know that there are options.

if 5W40 is not as stable as 5W30, what grade would be the equivalent to the 5W30 in terms of stability?

 

[knightjp]

My understanding is that Red Line is good for solving the HEMI tick and preventing it from returning. However I've always believed that prevention is better than sure, so anyone who buys a HEMI engined vehicle should start using Red Line 5W30 pretty much immediately to prevent any sort of tick.

My brother's 2004 Durango has had an oil change of 5W30 in accordance with it owner's manual since new and has never had the dreaded tick. The engine has done over 230,000 kms without incident and the oils used are mostly off the shelf stuff. Ever since we got the vehicle send hand, we have been using Total Quartz 9000 5W30 for the oil change.

I would be interested to hear from anyone using stuff like Amsoil or Mobile 1 and never had the tick. What is the current mileage? Do you use any additives like lubegard? And most of all, what weight are you using?

Also I noticed that the brand Liqui-Moly is not mentioned. If we're looking for an oil with a high moly content, wouldn't this be one of the good ones?

 

[Burla]

Does Lubegard actually work?
How much would I need for a stand oil change on 5.7 Hemi? Possibly could use that combined with Mopar 5w30 and call it a day - in case Redline is not in stock again.

However it is good to know that there are options.

if 5W40 is not as stable as 5W30, what grade would be the equivalent to the 5W30 in terms of stability?

read lubegard thread for yourself and read poll results.

 

[Burla]

Also I noticed that the brand Liqui-Moly is not mentioned. If we're looking for an oil with a high moly content, wouldn't this be one of the good ones?

Oddly liqui moly oil has no moly, they use titanium for EP additive, which is generally known as a little less at lessening the coefficient of friction. That paper is somewhere in syn thread, moly versus titanium if you want to do some research.

Their moly additives use a different type of moly, moly in suspension, moTDc versus M0S2, plus they don't use esters and lubegard does, and lubegard has other aw additives as well, whereas mos2 is generally powdered moly in suspension and base oil, and will gel up in sump. I'm not saying I would never us mos2, I actually think it has a place, especially in engines with wider tolerances, but personally I would use that strategy when the other strategies weren't working. one man's opinion

The lesser the swing, the more stable the viscosity, 10w30 same brand will be more stable then 5w30, 0w30 will be less stable then 5w30. Assuming the same base oils, when you introduce pao you can see variances here. 5w30 redline is incredibly stable, many other 5w30's aren't.

 

[knightjp]

https://youtu.be/3yR0OJaHBiU

Came across this on Youtube today.. Quite interesting.

Currently the truck is in the workshop for a repair with the evaporator and the oil change. We got Motul 5W40 for the engine oil.. After we bought it, we learned that there was a dealer who had Red Line 5W40. So might check that out for the next time if we aren't able to get Red Line 5W30.

I am looking into Amsoil as well. Hearing a lot of good things about it. Would love to hear from someone who has been using Amsoil long term on their HEMI.

https://youtu.be/bdZuni-tp4U

https://youtu.be/8lj4mLhAI4Y

This mechanic recommends changing oil based on engine hours rather than actual mileage.

 

[knightjp]

Reading through the pages of this thread to see if there is anyone who posts their experience about Amsoil. So far two people I contacted on Youtube who show themselves using Amsoil claim that they have been using Amsoil for years and never had the HEMI tick nor any other issues with their engines. They also have been using 5W20 Signature Series. Looking at their videos, it would appear that they live in colder climates than me.

Looking at the 2004 Durango which which has been using off the shelf 5W30 oil for all its life, I'm guess that just running Amsoil 5W30 or 0W40 oil would be good enough; if we're not able to find Red Line 5W30.
I would be interested in see more data on this.

Was there anyone who had been using Amsoil and then moved over the Red Line? If so, why?

 

[Burla]

tj who owns a shop that sells amsoil and not reldine, ram newbie, and corey hemi 395, Kyle U&A (did you tick on amsoil don't remember?) and others I have long forgotten have had engine tick on amsoil then switched to redline and had tick erased. All of them were amsoil "guys", and in fact at least newbie, U&A and corey still are, they just happen to use redline for the hemi tick.

Now, that isn't a knock on amsoil, because you can take away the word amsoil and put any oil you want in that spot and the result is the same. I know at least three of those guys maybe 4 (not sure about tj) still use the hell out of amsoil products, just not their engine oil. Amsoil is a top oil for the hemi, I say so every chance I get and I mean it, just not a hemi tick hemi. Amsoil's record is dismal against hemi tick, but yet again so are most oils. API friendly oils aren't built to deal with banging metal, no surprise here, the only surprise is for some reason some formulations actually kill hemi tick, and a pleasant surprise that is? That 300v follows the same mold as the two known proven hemi tick formulas redline and biotech, in theory this is your best shot because you have hemi tick.

Now, maybe it will be different for you, why not try amsoil? As a back up move have some lubegard biotech on hand for a wild card you can play if your truck ticks. If you went amosil seeing you already have tick, I would not bother with 5w20 even if ss, go 5w30 imo. If you try it please update us I know you will.

pm those guys tj, hemi395, U&A are all active.

 

[quickster2]

I'm sticking with PUP. The Powertrain Engineers I used to work with recommended it when I had my Viper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

No reason to change in either my Ram nor Durango.

 

[knightjp]

@Burla thanks for the info..

still are, they just happen to use redline for the hemi tick.
Amsoil is a top oil for the hemi, I say so every chance I get and I mean it, just not a hemi tick hemi.

So.. they use Red Line only when they have the tick? What do we do to prevent the tick from ever happening? For instance, if I was to buy a brand new truck and I was interested in preventing the tick... what do I do?

That 300v follows the same mold as the two known proven hemi tick formulas redline and biotech, in theory this is your best shot because you have hemi tick.

So because I have had the tick, to be safe and prevent the tick from ever happening again, I should consider only oils like Red Line and Motul? It's not a bad place to be.. Red Line is amazing and proven in my case. If it was still available, that would be my first choice.
I'm just trying to figure out what makes my engine different now that it has experienced the tick over the others who haven't. Potentially, the parts are no less different from any other HEMI out there that hasn't had the issue.

Now, maybe it will be different for you, why not try amsoil? As a back up move have some lubegard biotech on hand for a wild card you can play if your truck ticks. If you went amosil seeing you already have tick, I would not bother with 5w20 even if ss, go 5w30 imo. If you try it please update us I know you will.

I am tempted to give it a shot. The price of Amsoil is quite a bit cheaper than Red Line and Motul. I'm just basing my theory on the fact that the tick was potentially caused because the various parts were not being lubricated the way that they were supposed to. I used the wrong oil (Mopar 5W20)for the climate I'm in. A good case for this is the 2004 Durango which has done 5W30 oils (of various brands) all its life and never had the tick. It is running really well (knock on wood) and my brother has still not used Red Line even though I suggested it.

It is clear that where I am 5W20 is not the way to go. Not for where I am..
There was one shop that tried to sell me Mobile1 0W40.. how does 0W40 compare to 5W30?

 

[knightjp]

I'm sticking with PUP. The Powertrain Engineers I used to work with recommended it when I had my Viper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js

No reason to change in either my Ram nor Durango.

Do you use any additives like Lubegard?

 

[RamHemi18]

Would you guys add lubegard to PP or PUP in 5W20 or 5W30?

 

[Burla]

If you see the white paper on moly and the results that moly has had on hemi's, combined with the knowledge that hemi specific oil made with fca engineers 0w40 PUP has very high moly, then I would think boosting moly in api oils is a good idea, so yes I would add the moly that they used, IE the moly in lubegard which is not the moly in most additives. Oil soluble moly is what separates lubegard biotech versus other additives. If hemi tick or dry starts are a consideration, EP additives must be the answer, the main EP additive in oils is moly.

 

[quickster2]

Do you use any additives like Lubegard?

No not needed. I change the oil & filter every 5K in all my vehicles for many years.

 

[knightjp]

I just got the truck from the mechanic and noticed that after putting Motul 300V 5W40, the engine sounds a bit noisier than before. I would say that there is a slight ticking noise, but nothing like a HEMI tick. To be honest, it sounded like a diesel engine and I wasn't sure that a HEMI needed to sound like that. Maybe I've just forgotten how a HEMI sounds. LOL..
I've gone back to the mechanic for him to check over it again. He says that the sounds I'm hearing are the injectors and it sounds smooth and normal to him. Of course I trust his judgement because he's seen a number of HEMIs with the dreaded tick.

He wasn't sure about the Motul 300V we put in and to be honest, I'm wondering the same right now as well. But I will run the oil for a while because it was pretty expensive; 8 litres cost us about 206 USD, quite a bit more than Red Line as well.
So I basically need to get my money's worth out of the oil, but I will be monitoring the engine and the moment I'm not happy or hear anything abnormal, I will be changing it out.
To what?.. Well... Hopefully Red Line will be in stock.. if not.. maybe Amsoil?
The trouble with being in Dubai is that choice is limited, unless you are willing to use something like Castrol, Total, Mopar or AC Delco or some like Toyota's own brand of engine oil.

 

[Burla]

I just got the truck from the mechanic and noticed that after putting Motul 300V 5W40, the engine sounds a bit noisier than before. I would say that there is a slight ticking noise, but nothing like a HEMI tick. To be honest, it sounded like a diesel engine and I wasn't sure that a HEMI needed to sound like that. Maybe I've just forgotten how a HEMI sounds. LOL..
I've gone back to the mechanic for him to check over it again. He says that the sounds I'm hearing are the injectors and it sounds smooth and normal to him. Of course I trust his judgement because he's seen a number of HEMIs with the dreaded tick.

He wasn't sure about the Motul 300V we put in and to be honest, I'm wondering the same right now as well. But I will run the oil for a while because it was pretty expensive; 8 litres cost us about 206 USD, quite a bit more than Red Line as well.
So I basically need to get my money's worth out of the oil, but I will be monitoring the engine and the moment I'm not happy or hear anything abnormal, I will be changing it out.
To what?.. Well... Hopefully Red Line will be in stock.. if not.. maybe Amsoil?
The trouble with being in Dubai is that choice is limited, unless you are willing to use something like Castrol, Total, Mopar or AC Delco or some like Toyota's own brand of engine oil.

thanks for update, update us again in a couple days.

 

[knightjp]

thanks for update, update us again in a couple days.

I will surely update you on the condition of the engine after a couple of days. Am I the first one who is trying Motul 300V in their HEMI?
I kind of get the feeling I'm a lab rat now. Maybe its all in my head.

I would be interested in using Pennzoil Ultimate Platinum 5W30 or 0W40 and check how the engine runs with that. However I'm unable to find a dealer here in Dubai.
Pennzoil belongs to Shell? So why does Shell market their own brand of oil then like Shell Rotella?

 

[Burla]

Pennzoil was an acquisition, the entire reason they bought it was for it's name. You wouldn't buy Coke and then call it something else, you want to capitalize on it's name and their customer base.

Someone else has ran 300v, but there is not a lot of people who have. I believe it to be high moly/g3/esters whereas redline high moly/pao/esters. It is a true high performance oil, but some of the other choices aren't. Maybe you can use amsoil and see if it works next time if no redline, but redline has proven itself over and over as the only real choice, as you are starting to see for yourself.

 

[Burla]

Not saying it is over for your 300v, the science of EP additives, if it will get quieter it is very possible it will take time. I wish I would have asked another question in the poll, if your truck went quiet how long did it take? From the informal count in my brain that number is somewhere around 50% of trucks took many miles to go quiet, as noted my truck took 500 miles to go quiet. I was just like you, thinking damn I just wasted all that dough on this expensive c r a p, and 500 miles later the rest is history.