Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Burla

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Coincidence the oil FCA made in cooperation with Pennzoil 0w40 PUP for HEMIS has some of the highest moly levels on the shelf, I think not.

Even someone who frowns on additives can see the benefit of a moly product like lubeguard's biotech added to the 60ppm otc oils we all love. You don't have to use redline, poor man's redline (bio-tech) will protect your cam by adding the right type of moly, oil soluble. The other differences between redline and group 3 is another conversation, but when it comes to Moly it is easy to duplicate redline's formula. Now of course there isn't any duplicating PAO/Esters w/o using them in high %'s, but bio-Tech also adds some esters to a group 3 oil. No secret I prefer Redline 5w30 the entire package, BUT there ARE other options for guys wanting the protection that high moly gives, like that white paper shows protects those CAMS.
 

chrisbh17

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I was thinking of the 0W-40 last night....it has such high moly levels, but its an "in between:" number...not 500 (obviously organic moly) and not 75 (obviously trinuclear).

Did they put 240ppm of trinuclear moly into the SRT oil?

If 0W-40 has about 240ppm and 5-30 PUP has 75 ppm, and we use a 4 qt 5-30 and 3 qt 0-40, about what would the total moly amount be?

Or maybe just better off sticking with PUP 5-30 and using Biotech or maybe even LiquiMoly Ceratec
 

SYKRAMMAN

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This stuff gets really confusing real fast lol, I just go with what works for my particular engine and so far rl 5/30 is way smoother than what the dodge dealer used, and I don’t know what it was but it came out like water, cold.

I only have a few hundred miles on rl and it gets better and better so I’m sure by the time it has plated it will be this engines life blood. Not even going to try anything else.


Side note: only reason I went rl is because of the hard work in experimentation, r@d, etc from you guys, if not, then I wouldn’t have gone this route, but DAMN GLAD I did!:)
 
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U&A

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I was thinking of the 0W-40 last night....it has such high moly levels, but its an "in between:" number...not 500 (obviously organic moly) and not 75 (obviously trinuclear).

Did they put 240ppm of trinuclear moly into the SRT oil?

If 0W-40 has about 240ppm and 5-30 PUP has 75 ppm, and we use a 4 qt 5-30 and 3 qt 0-40, about what would the total moly amount be?

Or maybe just better off sticking with PUP 5-30 and using Biotech or maybe even LiquiMoly Ceratec

75x4=300

240x3=720

720+300=1020

1020/7=145




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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dexter

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Just finished up a simple micro service with my new 68RFE, with not yet 3K miles on her.
She has 3 good decent towing adventures on her now: towing the 11Klb bumper pull enclosed trailer. (Right @ 1842 miles worth).

With this small electric pump I was able to suck out 4qts of the FF ATF through the dipstick. I did drive her for a few min to get the ATF up to 100°F , which would make pumping the fluid a little easier for the little pump.

The FF ATF was still ruby red & looked very clean.
I then refilled with 4qts Schaeffers All-Trans ATF.
I know this only replenished 1/4 of the FF ATF. (Maybe a bit more)

But I have intentions of doing this one more time before winter, and then every 6months. Until I can afford one of those expensive aluminum finned transmission pans with the drain plug, which will make the service much faster and easier. As well as draining out possibly a couple more qts every time.

Just slowly replacing the FF fluid with a way more robust ATF gives me a little satisfaction that I am doing a decent service for my new transmission.
Steve my service manager texted me back and said the spin on filter and pan filter that is in the transmission does not really have to be changed until the 45 to 50K mile mark. At this point fresh fluid is more important.

Most owners probably wouldn’t even bother doing this. For a fact I know most probably wouldn’t.
I’m not by no means your normal owner.
I know this transmission is the weakest link in this whole system and it’s probably going to get my most attention along with the rearend.

View attachment 139756

View attachment 139757

I do apologize for my punctuation I’m not a big comma guy so it looks like I’m rambling 300 mile an hour.

Where did you get that small electric pump?
 

Burla

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Who has trinuclear moly in levels like 200ppm +? The only way you can trust it is if they post it. Anyone can "say" it is, but if they post it in their literature then it is more credible. One way Redline can improve, move over to 500ppm tri-nuclear moly. I would hope they would consider it at some point. I assume every major brand with 60ppm in their voa/uoa's is tri-nuclear.
 

chrisbh17

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Who has trinuclear moly in levels like 200ppm +? The only way you can trust it is if they post it. Anyone can "say" it is, but if they post it in their literature then it is more credible. One way Redline can improve, move over to 500ppm tri-nuclear moly. I would hope they would consider it at some point. I assume every major brand with 60ppm in their voa/uoa's is tri-nuclear.

Yeah I was genuinely asking.

Because we assume that normal (non-SRT) PUP has tri-nuclear from the 70-ish level.

But SRT oil (0W-40 PUP) has ~240 ppm the last I checked. Do they use organic or tri-nuclear moly at those levels?

And considering they made the oil for a specific application (high performance Hemi engines), could it actually be tri-nuclear that makes it special and helps the engines more than standard PUP?
 
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SyN

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Now! Let me guess: Gales company will be producing there own brand of Differential covers that are a far superior design compared to all these others @ 2X the $$$.

Let’s wait & see!
 

HammerHead

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Really makes you wonder about these aftermarket diff covers.........
I had no idea how aerated gear oil got, truly surprised. I would love to see an aftermarket diff cover made out of the clear plastic to see an apples to apples comparison.
This video confirms my rear diff oil OCI, every 25-30k IMO, factory fill gets dumped at 10k.
 

69GWC

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The excess oil hitting the cover is not what is cooling the gears so IMO who cares if the cover is shaped like the gear or squared off.
What matters is the oil the ring gear is carrying and throwing at the pinion and pinion bearings, the ring gear is going to pull fluid and throw fliud regardless of the cover shape I mean the top of the housing is not round just like the cover.

They will come out with there own cover that shaped different and claim all others fail and overheat the gears.
 
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Burla

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Now! Let me guess: Gales company will be producing there own brand of Differential covers that are a far superior design compared to all these others @ 2X the $$$.

Let’s wait & see!

Nah Corey is on to something he posted another great three part test with someone other then G banks. In a way to his own detriment as he upgraded to a magtec.
 

Hemi395

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Now! Let me guess: Gales company will be producing there own brand of Differential covers that are a far superior design compared to all these others @ 2X the $$$.

Let’s wait & see!
That's what I'm thinking the ultimate end of this video series is....

Kinda cool to see what happens to the gear oil tho
 

chrisbh17

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