Synthetic Oil

[U&A]

Are you guys hard on throttle? If so, do you think your oil filter bypass opens everytime you whale on throttle?

No hard accelerations

But i keep the RPM’s high. So im not actually “hard on it”.

My grandpa always said.. “you can drive it fast without driving it hard, there is nothing wrong with that”




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[dexter]

Are you guys hard on throttle? If so, do you think your oil filter bypass opens everytime you whale on throttle?

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309756
Oil Filter Flow Diagram
The only thing that holds the "spin-on" oil filter to the engine and keeps the oil from leaking is the base gasket (shown in above picture in red).

The Bypass Valve

Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation, it opens often.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Are you guys hard on throttle? If so, do you think your oil filter bypass opens everytime you whale on throttle?

I imagine my 20-820's might go into bypass on occasion since I see over 65PSI if I spin either the 5.7 or the 6.4 out to redline wide open. That being said it can't be that bad for them in small bursts since I've noticed the best way to quiet down my 5.7 if it starts it's cold start crankiness after lots of shorter trips is to go hit up the gas station in the next town over and then WOT to the 75MPH speed limit leaving. Kills the start up tick for about 2 weeks if I haven't been doing longer trips (40+ miles).

 

[Stefan N]

Are you guys hard on throttle? If so, do you think your oil filter bypass opens everytime you whale on throttle?

I stomp it "everytime" I drive it (hot oil)

 

[R.L.K.]

I drive like an old man always have really ...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[AFMoulton]

I drive like an old man always have really ...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

That’s why you are the only guy with a 25 MPG 1500!!! LoL


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[R.L.K.]

That’s why you are the only guy with a 25 MPG 1500!!! LoL


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Ha ha ha , well best I've averaged on a common 1500 mile round trip I do several times a year was 23.5 mpg .
I do routinely get over 20 mpg on trips of 400 miles or longer .
Year round avg for me is 19+ if it wasn't for winter fuel additives and warming my truck up in the mornings I bet my annual average mpg would be closer to 20mpg .


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[R.L.K.]

Can't remember if I posted this here or not , but this was just last week when I drove to St. Louis from Bristol , Tn. with about 600lbs of tools and equipment in the bed .

At one time during the trip on my way back in the flat land area between Memphis and Nashville I was averaging 21.6 mpg about 950 miles into the round trip .

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Zack02]

It is all being covered under warranty. Additionally, he informed me I won’t be charged for the expedited shipping on the other parts ordered. I’ll try to post the invoice/parts list once all is said and done. The service advisor said the part list will be short, given it’s a new assembly.

I would tack that onto the warranty bill. IMO, you directed that off (now incorrect) info. Not your fault THEY changed what they were doing. And it's not your problem to expedite shipping...

I wasn't talking about car engines for sure

Gotcha, guess I miss read it as a blanket statement, more than a specific subgroup. lol But that is why I picked the car/minivan engine to compare to the olds' diesel.

This was a good watch. No wonder those things had so many issues.

Cool vid, thanks for sharing.

 

[Hemi395]

Can't remember if I posted this here or not , but this was just last week when I drove to St. Louis from Bristol , Tn. with about 600lbs of tools and equipment in the bed .

At one time during the trip on my way back in the flat land area between Memphis and Nashville I was averaging 21.6 mpg about 950 miles into the round trip .

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

And that's with Bilsteins set at 2.8 and running a 5w30 oil[emoji106]

 

[R.L.K.]

And that's with Bilsteins set at 2.8 and running a 5w30 oil[emoji106]

That's right [emoji1360]

And 79K miles on the truck , Redline C+ in the 6 speed xsmn with a Mag-Hytech pan + Redline 75-140 in my 3.55 rear differential [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

Great info on the 5.7 thanks to @indept

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=142855&share_fid=17770&share_type=t

5.7L article comparing 3rd to 4th gen

 

[GottaBeKD]

That's right [emoji1360]

And 79K miles on the truck , Redline C+ in the 6 speed xsmn with a Mag-Hytech pan + Redline 75-140 in my 3.55 rear differential [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

G'morning sir.

Can u shed some light on driving speed and traffic conditions? Those are some pretty impressive numbers.

Edit: MDS on or off?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

 

[U&A]

G'morning sir.

Can u shed some light on driving speed and traffic conditions? Those are some pretty impressive numbers.

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Pretty sure it’s the grandpa driving characteristics and the fact that he’s full of hot air (therefore reducing the weight of the truck) that allows him to get some good gas mileage

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[corneileous]

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309756
Oil Filter Flow Diagram
The only thing that holds the "spin-on" oil filter to the engine and keeps the oil from leaking is the base gasket (shown in above picture in red).

The Bypass Valve

Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation, it opens often.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

See, this is all why I think I’m making a good choice by staying with the Wix XP filter rather than that white SRT filter I was considering because I think it’s bypass setting is higher for like the Hellcat and Demon motors, even though it is a Mopar product. I do change oil sooner than I should but, we do have the potential for cold winters here in Oklahoma so, I see no reason to deviate from stock parameters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[huntergreen]

I know I change oil sooner than I should.

 

[R.L.K.]

Pretty sure it’s the grandpa driving characteristics and the fact that he’s full of hot air (therefore reducing the weight of the truck) that allows him to get some good gas mileage

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]







Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Mostly true [emoji16][emoji16]
This guy [emoji23] what an ass [emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[R.L.K.]

G'morning sir.

Can u shed some light on driving speed and traffic conditions? Those are some pretty impressive numbers.

Edit: MDS on or off?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

On the longer trips I typically drive the posted speed limit ++ no more than +5 mph or keep up with the flow of traffic if I'm going too slow . These are interstate speeds so 65 - 75 posted depending on where I'm at so my speeds are always in that range . As far a traffic , that is what it is ...I do like to travel at night and after about 10pm there's less vehicles on the road so cruise control on with very little interruptions for long stretches at a time .

I always travel with MDS on just because ( I've tested that theory in my truck ) I get essentially the same mpg with MDS on or off , meaning no notable difference. I've experienced a .2-.3 mpg increase with MDS on & Off so for me I just leave it on unless I'm towing .
Remember my truck is all stock just bills at +2.8 , +1.5" rear spacers , OCC and different fluids .

My daily driving for the most part is 35-55 mph to and from work about 40miles .
I'm not an aggressive driver at all .
I do off-road quite a bit which kills mpg and I tow and haul something at least twice a month which also kills mpg .
I think my mpgs are mainly due to my non-aggressive driving style and very little to do with me being full of hot air [emoji1787][emoji1787] I do run the AC pretty much all the time though [emoji848]
I'd venture to say if my truck was used as a grocery getter and long trips only I'd get over 20mpg year round .


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[GottaBeKD]

On the longer trips I typically drive the posted speed limit ++ no more than +5 mph or keep up with the flow of traffic if I'm going too slow . These are interstate speeds so 65 - 75 posted depending on where I'm at so my speeds are always in that range . As far a traffic , that is what it is ...I do like to travel at night and after about 10pm there's less vehicles on the road so cruise control on with very little interruptions for long stretches at a time .

I always travel with MDS on just because ( I've tested that theory in my truck ) I get essentially the same mpg with MDS on or off , meaning no notable difference. I've experienced a .2-.3 mpg increase with MDS on & Off so for me I just leave it on unless I'm towing .
Remember my truck is all stock just bills at +2.8 , +1.5" rear spacers , OCC and different fluids .

My daily driving for the most part is 35-55 mph to and from work about 40miles .
I'm not an aggressive driver at all .
I do off-road quite a bit which kills mpg and I tow and haul something at least twice a month which also kills mpg .
I think my mpgs are mainly due to my non-aggressive driving style and very little to do with me being full of hot air [emoji1787][emoji1787] I do run the AC pretty much all the time though [emoji848]
I'd venture to say if my truck was used as a grocery getter and long trips only I'd get over 20mpg year round .


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

My rational for disabling MDS is because it's always the inside 4 cylinders working. Want to keep the heat difference to a min. Hopefully it reduces the chance of exhaust manifold bolts snapping when temps are even across all ports. Also want to keep even wear across all cylinders, spark plugs, etc

I'm in the 18-19 MPG... I do have 3.21 gears too with decent amount of highway driving

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

 

[R.L.K.]

My rational for disabling MDS is because it's always the inside 4 cylinders working. Want to keep the heat difference to a min. Hopefully it reduces the chance of exhaust manifold bolts snapping when temps are even across all ports. Also want to keep even wear across all cylinders, spark plugs, etc

I'm in the 18-19 MPG... I do have 3.21 gears too with decent amount of highway driving

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Sounds like you have the 8 speed xsmn ?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk