Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Sash

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I enjoy reading this lots of nice info, anyone have done Blackstone on a quaker state full synthetic the new formula ?
 

Burla

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Pennzoil Yellow Bottle? I think that has more moly doesn't it? Interesting uoa here, max pro. But looking at the tbn, it is likely a blend or conventional anyhow?

Didnt post well, moly 167ppm, tbn 6.1, 5w30 maxpro.

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Awe Burla missed something, it isnt 5w30 but rather 0w30 which means? Yes, synthetic. Maxpro 0w30 looks like a good oil.
 

Burla

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oci calculator, lol? The issue is tbn lowers at different rates, it decreases real fast on fresh oil, then slowly loses tbn as you get lower tbn, and they don't consider any variables. 5 methods on when it is best to change your oil, pick one.
 

Rod Knock

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The quality f gasoline has something to do with TBN, something you can't know beforehand.
 

MontanaHandyman

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Earlier in this thread (like 1000 pages back) there was a discussion about using tuners to reset the idle to a higher rpm. I had purchased a Banks tuner sometime ago which has the option to do that, but it drops back to the "normal" setting of 600 rpm every time you shut the engine off. Is there a tuner out there that will reset the idle speed permanently? (I have a '14 1500 5.7 hemi, if that makes a difference)
 

Bill Blackmon

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I really wonder if the people that buy the EV understand where their electricity comes from. There are still a lot of coal burning sites around the country that produce their electricity. Second I wonder if people have thought about the cost to replace the batteries in their 5 or 10 year old EV after they have cycled several hundred times.
 

Rod Knock

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I really wonder if the people that buy the EV understand where their electricity comes from. There are still a lot of coal burning sites around the country that produce their electricity. Second I wonder if people have thought about the cost to replace the batteries in their 5 or 10 year old EV after they have cycled several hundred times.
No, no, they don't think about that. Neither do they buy EVs to save the planet. They do it because it's the latest trendy thing to do. There are too many people, way too many, that come into money way too quickly, so they like to blow it on toys. Easy come, easy go...
 

Burla

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Fuel for hemimann's theory that it is the esters in redline that stop the tick instead of the moly. Lubrizol has a line of sulfurized polymeric esters, so just like when you add sulfur to a moly atom you get an EP additive, when you add sulfur to an ester you also get an EP (Extreme Pressure) additive. So if this is the case, and redline uses a sulfurized ester, then we can look at other formulas known to have this in their formula. Hold on to your seat, another such oil known to contain this..... Royal Purple. Now, we know redline kills ticks, what we don't know is do they used sulfurized esters.

From some white paper out there, sulfurized ester is a legit replacement for chlorine, which is one of the if not the single best additive for lubricity. Of course, this one contains a downside that sulfur does not.
 

HEMIMANN

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Well, actually its the metal-wetting ability of esters I was getting at. The ester base oil sticks to the metal surfaces. Should make a big difference for startups and also on the marginally-lubricated parts like the lifter rollers @ idle rpm. Add good EP additives to the wetting and you get a great semi-permanent lubricant film.
 
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Rod Knock

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Well, actually its the meta wetting ability of esters I was getting at. The ester base oil sticks to the metal surfaces. Should make a big difference for startups and also on the marginally-lubricated parts like the lifter rollers @ idle rpm. Add good EP additives to the wetting and you get a great semi-permanent lubricant film.

How well do they stick? I recently pulled off the passenger side valve cover and underneath it was very clean and almost bone dry. Been running Red Line 5W-30 for a few months now and several thousand miles.

The only true negative I noticed about Red Line 5W-30 is that my MPG went down when compared to 0W-40, and seriously went down when compared to 5W-20 ILSAC oils. I am looking at 15 highway and 13 city. That can't be just the crappy winter gasoline, or can it? I also run a 180F t-stat.

I wonder if I should be concerned about how quickly Red Line turns brown and the smokey smell that I noticed on the dipstick oil. Euro oils have almost no smokey smell to them. Do you think that means anything?

My tick is gone since I replaced my passenger side manifold with a brand new one (Mopar) and nine brand new bolts.

As you can see I got no varnish in the engine at 40K miles. The valve cover was really easy to clean as all it had on it was some oil. I used degreasing foam and then distilled water to clean it up and air to dry it. The little bit of brown oil you see on the bottom of the spark plug holes is Red Line 5W-30.

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Rod Knock

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Fuel for hemimann's theory that it is the esters in redline that stop the tick instead of the moly. Lubrizol has a line of sulfurized polymeric esters, so just like when you add sulfur to a moly atom you get an EP additive, when you add sulfur to an ester you also get an EP (Extreme Pressure) additive. So if this is the case, and redline uses a sulfurized ester, then we can look at other formulas known to have this in their formula. Hold on to your seat, another such oil known to contain this..... Royal Purple. Now, we know redline kills ticks, what we don't know is do they used sulfurized esters.
It's not just the clinging to the metal parts, I believe more importantly it's the cleaning ability of POE, as it's a mild solvent. I'm sure @HEMIMANN can chime in on this.

One theory I'd like to test if someone is willing to do it is to flush a Hemi with the tick with Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush, then do another oil change to get out the rest of the stuff (run the engine with fresh oil for 30 minutes), and then run a good Euro oil, preferably Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. If that works then there might be some credence to my theory that one of the things that Red Line does is clean the lifters and keep them clean. I like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 because it bleeds down the slowest, even slower than Red Line. I am very impressed with how well Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush cleans, though it helps to do a second oil change after a flush to have a spotless engine.
 

Travis8352

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It's not just the clinging to the metal parts, I believe more importantly it's the cleaning ability of POE, as it's a mild solvent. I'm sure @HEMIMANN can chime in on this.

One theory I'd like to test if someone is willing to do it is to flush a Hemi with the tick with Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush, then do another oil change to get out the rest of the stuff (run the engine with fresh oil for 30 minutes), and then run a good Euro oil, preferably Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. If that works then there might be some credence to my theory that one of the things that Red Line does is clean the lifters and keep them clean. I like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 because it bleeds down the slowest, even slower than Red Line. I am very impressed with how well Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush cleans, though it helps to do a second oil change after a flush to have a spotless engine.
I forget his name but one member used seafoam engine flush then switched to edge 5w20 and has been tick free since
 

Treburkulosis

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I run seafoam through my Hemi about every 15k miles. I run 60 mph for 100 miles and then I dump it and put new Castrol edge and puralator boss filter. I am also running lube guard. Thats been my solution. I was one of the early hemi tick survivors, this was back before all of the new knowledge was really out there.
 

Burla

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Sulfur allows for molecules to attach to each other, the one we know most about is binuclear moly compared to tri nuclear, the difference between the 2 being an additional sulfur atom for the tri nuclear. I see they have sulfurized olefins as well, so both pao or esters have the ability to become extreme pressure additives with this sulfur attached. gotta see some of the paper before anything else.
 

Rod Knock

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I run seafoam through my Hemi about every 15k miles. I run 60 mph for 100 miles and then I dump it and put new Castrol edge and puralator boss filter. I am also running lube guard. Thats been my solution. I was one of the early hemi tick survivors, this was back before all of the new knowledge was really out there.
What viscosity Castrol EDGE are you running, and what kind of MPG are you getting?

I used this stuff to clean 3 GDI engines of soot and other crap that accumulated over the years: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AICLM2037?impressionRank=1

That Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush is way more effective than Lubegard Engine Flush (I used it once in my Hemi). I never tried Seafoam, though.
 

HEMIMANN

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You guys are reminding me of my dreaded 2007 LS 5.3L Chevy with the AFM debacle. The thing pumped oil like a well. Blogosphere said to rinse out the crank case with a solvent oil, which would loosen the ring packs up enough to cut back the oil pumping. It worked. I went from 1 quart in 1,000 miles to 1 quart in 5,000 miles, then promptly sold it.

I was so p.o.'d @ GM I never went back. First new gen Ram in 2012.
 
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