Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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chrisbh17

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No oil would fix that.

Starting with basically a brand new truck, is there a recommended process (breaking in, etc) and product (oil, filter, etc) that will prevent the Hemi tick from ever occurring?
 

U&A

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No oil would fix that.

Redline has stopped that many times on this thread. Hemi tick is not a slight ticking noise, it is obnoxious and loud. sounds like a ball peen hammer. If you've never heard it in person you would be amazed.

Yes redline has fixed that many times

What have we been doing on this thread all along if redline hasnt stopped the tick.
 
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Rampant

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Starting with basically a brand new truck, is there a recommended process (breaking in, etc) and product (oil, filter, etc) that will prevent the Hemi tick from ever occurring?

Personally, if I ever did get the tick, I wouldn't fiddle with magic potions. There is a problem with one or more of the components in your valvetrain. Plain and simple. Likely a collapsed lifter or a cam lobe is wiped. Once you hear that noise, the damage is done and it will not get better on it's own. Anyone who knows anything about engines will tell you that. You can mask it if you like, but it will inevitably come back.

To begin with, I'd never let a stealership tell me "it's normal" as I've heard of them saying to others. Educate yourself and don't let them feed you full of their bs. Your truck is likely somewhere in the top 3 investments you'll make. Part of that investment is the warranty. Hold them accountable.

The answer to your question is no. There is nothing that will absolutely keep your engine from ever getting the tick. Engines are machines and machines break. But, what you can do is do your part and do it well. Take your best educated guess as to what oil/filter combo fits your needs and budget and run with it. Document your maintenance. Keep receipts. Pull samples and run UOAs. The more ammo you have when something does happen, the less chance there is of the onus being on you.

There are a lot of great oils out there these days. Burn a few calories on researching what's "best" for you. Personally, I've ran Amsoil in everything I own for 10+ years and have never had an issue. Nit-pick everything on that truck while it's under warranty and make them fix it. All of it. You paid for that. Get your money's worth. After that, it's all on you. Do what you can to ensure the longevity of your investment by properly [read: overly] maintaining and meticulously documenting. A little food for thought... Where does the manufacturer's interest lie? The end of the factory warranty is their finish line, not yours.
 
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Hemi395

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Starting with basically a brand new truck, is there a recommended process (breaking in, etc) and product (oil, filter, etc) that will prevent the Hemi tick from ever occurring?
Personally I would stick with PYB fir 3-5000 mile intervals. Plenty of moly and most people report their Hemis run smooth on that oil.
 

tsielski

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Starting with basically a brand new truck, is there a recommended process (breaking in, etc) and product (oil, filter, etc) that will prevent the Hemi tick from ever occurring?

Think there are two ways to approach that. One way would be when you dump the FF, begin using Redline 5W-30. As Redline has fixed engines with the tick, it certainly ought to prevent it from occurring. Another way, (the method I'm using), would be to run a more viscous oil than the CAFE BS 5W-20 other than Redline, after dumping the FF, such as a 5W-30, or 0W-40 and use a moly additive such as Liqui-Moly or Lubeguard.

There's no data whether the 2nd method will absolutely prevent the tick, however I'm currently running Castrol (black) 0W-40 with Lubeguard and my engine is smooth and quiet. My next OC will be to Schaeffers 5W-40, an oil that has decent levels of Moly, tho not as much as Redline, nor does it have the ester content of Redline. I've had excellent results with Schaeffers on other vehicles and I'm going to give it a whirl in the Ram.

And although the question does come up from time to time, there is no issue with a more viscous oil than 5W-20 and the MDS. Been running thicker oils for over 12K miles with no issue. I do tho turn the MDS off every time I start the truck (using the paddle shifters). Truck runs smoother and actually gets slightly better highway mileage than with MDS engaged.
 

U&A

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Just remember that most 0w40's shear down to clost to a 30w or they start out closer to a 30w to begin with. Stick with the closest viscosity range you can in your environment.

For example. I think RLK has a stock pile of redline 10w30
 
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S0CAL

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Can someone please dispell the myth that Redline has “high zinc levels” which is problematic for catalytic converters? I find it hard to believe such a well recommended 5w20 true synthetic would do such a thing. Cheers!
 

U&A

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Can someone please dispell the myth that Redline has “high zinc levels” which is problematic for catalytic converters? I find it hard to believe such a well recommended 5w20 true synthetic would do such a thing. Cheers!

Redline will probobly have an average of around 1300 ppm of zink. Some viscositys more...say 1500 and some less, closer to 1100. That much is not going to hurt you cats. But it will help your $5,000 engine. And if by chance it does hurt your cats....it will take like 10 years and cats cost about $200. Vs a $5,000 hemi

Everything is given and take
 

Burla

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I think we just learned something about Kyle, not a fisherman :)
 

U&A

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I think we just learned something about Kyle, not a fisherman :)

On a serious not, I get bored quick with fishing. I can admit that i dont see sarcasm in text somtimes. It happens to us all.:favorites13:

Funny note....Burla

Are you trying to one up me ****!!:roflsquared:

(You got me good, Payback's a ***** right.. LOL)
 
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Burla

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Fisherman don't misspell Bate :)

And I'm not trying to one up you, I just one upped you, there is a difference.
 

Burla

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Thanks man, I am finally breaking out of this funk I'm in. Needed someone to pick on I guess. Wife took the day off work today, moving all of our stuff back in. Redline back to the garage, but not for long, I aint procrastinating anymore.
 

U&A

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Thanks man, I am finally breaking out of this funk I'm in. Needed someone to pick on I guess. Wife took the day off work today, moving all of our stuff back in.

Im taking my ball and going home.

Screw you burla.:baby:

And HAY! \/\/\/


"BATE"

(Just kidding glad you in a better mood. Even at my expense) :favorites13:

EDIT: im check my spelling now....give me a min for error corrections.
 

Burla

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Some weird stuff happened going up my freaking hill the other day, my truck lost gear. I don't know how this can happened with an auto and the th engaged. I have been a little out of it, and I was saying to myself why the hell did I put it in neutral in the middle of the hill, and looked down and everything looked normal on the evic. Gonna change fluids, I guess it is official I will have to drop the pan and just look for metal. Never had anything like this happen.
 

U&A

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Some weird stuff happened going up my freaking hill the other day, my truck lost gear. I don't know how this can happened with an auto and the th engaged. I have been a little out of it, and I was saying to myself why the hell did I put it in neutral in the middle of the hill, and looked down and everything looked normal on the evic. Gonna change fluids, I guess it is official I will have to drop the pan and just look for metal. Never had anything like this happen.

Wow. Good luck bud.



Checking spelling now.........
 

chrisbh17

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Personally I would stick with PYB fir 3-5000 mile intervals. Plenty of moly and most people report their Hemis run smooth on that oil.

But this is the SYNTHETIC oil thread!!! :)

Oddly enough, I hadnt even thought about straight PYB. Checking some of the latest VOAs it really does look like good stuff.

The thing is I can get Pennzoil Platinum (5W-20) or Pennzoil Ultra Plat (5W-30) for only a few bucks more than the conventional Pennzoil. Doesnt necessarily mean they are better, though.
 
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