Towing 4 wheels down...

[RAMeister]

Hello all,

I'm planning to tow my 2011 RAM 4x4 Crew Cab behind a motorhome, I've begun the process of adding a Blue OX base plate, and will soon be adding a supplemental braking systems and some sort of wiring for lights, which is a bit more complicated because I converted most of my running lights to LED.

So anyone here done this?

Any suggestions, recommendations?

Thanks

 

[BoldAdventure]

Oh boy! What size motorhome you pulling that thing behind?

 

[RAMeister]

Oh boy! What size motorhome you pulling that thing behind?

Ha -

This 43 footer:

 

[DavidRam]

Holy **** cakes! I don't know a thing about towing, but I do know that is a beautiful motorhome!

 

[TWILLIAMS9]

Holy hell that thing is a tour bus!! I'd love to have me one of them!

 

[Birddog]

I haven't done what you're doing but I rewired my utility trailer once and I found the wiring diagram online. It came out great. Good luck.
The motor coach is gorgeous. It reminds me of a luxury motorcoach I was in once. A company here in South Florida rents it for $4K/week. It was nice enough to keep Trump happy. Lol

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[rpasetto]

Hello all,

I'm planning to tow my 2011 RAM 4x4 Crew Cab behind a motorhome, I've begun the process of adding a Blue OX base plate, and will soon be adding a supplemental braking systems and some sort of wiring for lights, which is a bit more complicated because I converted most of my running lights to LED.

So anyone here done this?

Any suggestions, recommendations?

Thanks

I'm in the same situation you were some time ago. Just got our RAM and want to know all I can about towbar baseplates, wiring options, brake systems, etc.

Happy travels!

 

[Jerry1984]

I'm guessing if you can afford those kinds of coaches you can probably afford someone to do the wiring for you.

 

[rpasetto]

I'm guessing if you can afford those kinds of coaches you can probably afford someone to do the wiring for you.

With a question like that, I'm guessing you do not understand the issues.

There are a couple of different options for running the wiring from the trailer/toad hookup connector to the tail/turn/brake lights, and a few ways of lighting these wen the vehicle is being towed. These include use of diodes, separate taillight bulbs, separate lighting and there are choices within each option as to where the connection points are made. Making the whole assembly weather tight is another issue.

 

[Jerry1984]

With a question like that, I'm guessing you do not understand the issues.

There are a couple of different options for running the wiring from the trailer/toad hookup connector to the tail/turn/brake lights, and a few ways of lighting these wen the vehicle is being towed. These include use of diodes, separate taillight bulbs, separate lighting and there are choices within each option as to where the connection points are made. Making the whole assembly weather tight is another issue.

I didn't ask a question, it was more of a statement. My point remains, if you go where you bought it, they will more than likely have the most experience and recommendations for you with wiring it up. RV forums are another option, but when I've searched there for things, they seem to argue more than any other forum. At least get the dealers opinion on the wiring they normally choose, then you can do it yourself or shop around for better install prices/quality.

 

[Sparkyy]

Absolutely a beautiful motorhome you have there!

What I have never understood is why tow a perfectly good truck or any vehicle behind the motorhome? Why not get a trailer for the vehicle and tow the trailer. No wiring needs to be done, you can leave your vehicle fully stock (stock being a loose term, how about a nontowed virigin? ) and then roll it off.

I only ask cause replacing tires on a truck is expensive, plus they won't get used other then just rolling down the road.

Only asking that question because I have never understood why people tow a vehicle versus using a trailer.

 

[Zeak]

Because you then need to have a place to keep the trailer when set up for your stay is just one reason. You would still have to buy the trailer, tag it, upkeep it as well. I used to install base plates and wiring for this purpose and it is easy if you know what your doing and allot cheaper and easier than dragging a trailer around. This is an older post so I'm sure the OP has figured it all out by now.

 

[tncruiser]

when i toad my wranglers a 2010 an 2011 i just drilled hole in the tail light assembly and installed light sockets and bulb n NO connection to the toad didn't want to do anything that might affect the canbus wiring it was just an aux light with 4 wire flat connector on my current toad a 2012 explorer i use magnetic lights simple and as the 2 previous toads NO connection to the car system for brake i use a brake buddy easy to use and portable i believe the aux brake is important not so much to stop as to cya if your are in an accident . im 12 feet shorter than you and gas (2011 georgetown) and no problems toading or stopping . explorer is about 4400# so i know your 450 hp diesel will be just 1 step better than perfect
safe travels
see u in a campground
brianj

 

[tncruiser]

I didn't ask a question, it was more of a statement. My point remains, if you go where you bought it, they will more than likely have the most experience and recommendations for you with wiring it up. RV forums are another option, but when I've searched there for things, they seem to argue more than any other forum. At least get the dealers opinion on the wiring they normally choose, then you can do it yourself or shop around for better install prices/quality.

no offense because that would be great advice but if we were to do a poll of 100 motorhome owners (and i have had 2 brand new coaches a 110 of them would respond with never go to a dealer for this kind of work and i didnt misprint 110 out of a hundred would be unhappy with the service
when i read on these threads about lousy dealer service i just think how lucky they are as you can find another dealer for warranty and service regretfully is just AINT so your advice on RV forums is excellent
brianj

 

[rpasetto]

I didn't ask a question, it was more of a statement. My point remains, if you go where you bought it, they will more than likely have the most experience and recommendations for you with wiring it up. RV forums are another option, but when I've searched there for things, they seem to argue more than any other forum. At least get the dealers opinion on the wiring they normally choose, then you can do it yourself or shop around for better install prices/quality.

I prefer the opinions and experiences of the actual users, rather than the words of the dealership, in determining my choices. I've done the wiring for more than a half dozen "toad's" over the years and have learned a lot from those who've done similar installs.

Also, there are really only three choices of sources for towbar baseplates (that is the bracket system to which the towbar is hooked - BlueOx, Demco, Roadmaster). I've used each brand in the past and learned that the application to the particular vehicle is sometimes much more important than brand. Again, I prefer the perspective and experiences of the user.


[OK I should have said "With a statement like that..." ]

 

[rpasetto]

@RAMeister: An update to those interested.

Baseplate: I decided to get the Demco version. Install was a little tougher than average, in my experience. Needed four hands for the first time to hold steel bumper in place while installing the baseplate to bumper studs. (maybe I'm getting weaker in my old age.) Install instructions were about average.

Wiring: First I ordered a "wiring kit" (from a manufacturer I won't mention here). I discovered that there were NO DIODES protecting the vehicle side... a no-no which the manufacturer rep denied. I returned the kit to dealer and explained why. I would up using Roadmaster diodes.

(note here: finding the brake/turn wire is a bit tricky since the test-with-meter method shows two wires hot when the brake or turn signal is on. One of the wires is an indicator for lamp failure and is not be the one to use.)

 

[rpasetto]

I know this is an old thread but I thought by posting here the message would get to some of us who tow our RAM 1500s behind motorhomes.

Recently I have been hearing that Jeep Grand Cherokees built since 2016 have been experiencing severe wobble under certain rare occasions. This has been noted on some of the RV forums. I'm talking about the "WK2" Grand Cherokee not the "KL" Cherokee, the latter having had a known wobble issue, and a fix, for years.

I learned that in 2016, WK2 Grand Cherokees were changed from an Electric-Hydraulic power steering system to an All-Electric one, similar to the KL Cherokee with servo type motors to provide the assist. For reasons I cannot get into it appears the cause of the wobble condition on the WK2 may be due to the differences between the older Electric-Hydraulic system and the newer All-Electric; both of these steering systems are referred to as "EPS".

So the question for us RAM 1500 owners is, which type of EPS do we have? I see references to EPS for the RAMs going back to MY 2013, so for us its important to know.

My thought is that the Grand Cherokee, unlike the Cherokee shares many components with the RAM 1500, the V6 and V8 engines and 8-speed ZF transmission for example. Could we be facing the same problem?