Transmission Flush

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

N8Vbighorn'98

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2016
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Ram Year
1998
Engine
Magnum 5.9
I am in the process of getting a case of Amsoil and want to do a transmission flush n drain. I been reading that disconnecting the cooler line is the best way to do this in terms of a total flush and drain process. And also are the band adjustments really necessary at this point?
 

ramburger

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2015
Posts
123
Reaction score
37
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.2 318
dont flush, just drain and fill with atf+4
if you are shifting all good then dont worry about bands
get a new filter
solenoids and transducers are cheap and since u have the cover off....
 

dapepper9

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Posts
5,908
Reaction score
2,224
Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Adjust the bands every time you service fluid and filter. They need to be set. Otherwise they loosen up and wreak havoc
 

tommyboi87

Senior Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Posts
861
Reaction score
224
Location
houma louisiana
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.2 Magnum
I 2nd doing a band adjustment. Peace of mind is a hell of a lot cheaper than a rebuild. Also a shift kit would add to the peace of mind while you have it open.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
In my experience on heavy duty trucks, if you think it needs a flush, it needs a rebuild. Saying that, most budding problems are solved by regular servicing. There is a reason road trucks regularly rack up a million miles, they are serviced so very often. On the trucks we had that were automatic we did a complete service every 60K miles or as close as possible.

What we did to those trucks roughly translates to fluid and filter change, band adjustment, valve body partial disassembly and cleaning, solenoid removal/inspection/cleaning. Most trucks would run the same set of clutches and bands for about 200K miles before needing replacement.

I've been maintaining my parents vehicles for years, I do a fluid and filter change, band adjustment and valve body inspection/cleaning every 60K miles. The vehicles have 210K, 198K and 170K aprox. at the last time I changed the oil. The engine and drivetrain just purr on those cars and SUVs.

Don't flush it, at best it does nothing, at worst it forced contaminates from the bottom of the pan into the workings of the transmission.
 

Meatball12

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Posts
78
Reaction score
17
Location
Carroll County, MD
Ram Year
2004
Engine
5.7 Hemi
In my experience on heavy duty trucks, if you think it needs a flush, it needs a rebuild. Saying that, most budding problems are solved by regular servicing. There is a reason road trucks regularly rack up a million miles, they are serviced so very often. On the trucks we had that were automatic we did a complete service every 60K miles or as close as possible.

What we did to those trucks roughly translates to fluid and filter change, band adjustment, valve body partial disassembly and cleaning, solenoid removal/inspection/cleaning. Most trucks would run the same set of clutches and bands for about 200K miles before needing replacement.

I've been maintaining my parents vehicles for years, I do a fluid and filter change, band adjustment and valve body inspection/cleaning every 60K miles. The vehicles have 210K, 198K and 170K aprox. at the last time I changed the oil. The engine and drivetrain just purr on those cars and SUVs.

Don't flush it, at best it does nothing, at worst it forced contaminates from the bottom of the pan into the workings of the transmission.
I was taught to drop the pan and let it drip for an hour then replace the amount of fluid lost and filter, bolt it back on, then flush it with the return line until the fluid come out new, adding more fluid as it drains to make up for lost fluid. Isn't that a better change than just dropping the pan while avoiding pumping the junk into the trans?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

dudeman2009

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
1,562
Reaction score
208
Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
I was taught to drop the pan and let it drip for an hour then replace the amount of fluid lost and filter, bolt it back on, then flush it with the return line until the fluid come out new, adding more fluid as it drains to make up for lost fluid. Isn't that a better change than just dropping the pan while avoiding pumping the junk into the trans?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

The only way to pump fluid out of the transmission via a cooler line is to start the truck and let it idle in neutral (I think our pumps disengage in park). I would never do that to a vehicle, becuase you just cannot add fluid through that tiny fill hole as fast as it will pump oil. Besides, the only way doing that would benefit you is if you took it through every gear and waited for it to clear up on each one.

The whole point of a new filter is to remove most of the contaminates left behind in the rest of the transmission as well as pickup large debris. I have never flushed a transmission, nor have I had it done to any of my vehicles. I simply have never come across a situation where such a thing is necessary. If you are going to flush it, just rebuild the thing. Flushing only removes old fluid, not any buildup inside the transmission.

A transmission flush has been perverted by oil change places and carried over from old technology that is no longer in use today. Modern transmission oils remove all need to flush anything, along with modern seals and gasket materials.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
195,597
Posts
2,872,368
Members
156,406
Latest member
1Popeye
Top