Uconnect 8.4 aftermarket amps & subs/speaker install

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by Tinmanzroad36, Feb 3, 2016.

  1. Tinmanzroad36

    Tinmanzroad36 Junior Member

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    Hey guys & gals,
    New here to the forum, so forgive me in advance if wrong area, format etc... I'm installing a set of amps, component door speakers and subs to my 2014 ram 2500 with uconnect and keeping factory head unit. I purchased amp kits & a LC2i output converter to tie into the factory wiring. However, this type of head unit, may be beyond my understanding of typical output, and I am having trouble with the system not working. Has anyone done this type of install and knows what type of inverter or plug-n-play module that may take all the splicing into wires out of the process for me? Thanks in advance!
     
  2. adrianp89

    adrianp89 Senior Member

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    You need a LOC that will present a load to the radio. The PAC LOC-PROs accomplish this.

    Not sure if your LC2i does it. How do you have everything wired in?
     
  3. Etroze86

    Etroze86 Senior Member

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    We need a little info from ya. First what 8.4 do you have? is it the alpine system? Next why go with the LC2i as it will really only be able to tie one amp into the system?
     
  4. Graygoose

    Graygoose Diplorable

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    Some amps don't need an LOC. What brand are you using?
     
  5. adrianp89

    adrianp89 Senior Member

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    Can the Kicker amps simulate the resistance load for the Chrysler's that need it?
     
  6. baum

    baum Senior Member

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    most if not all amps that offer the high level input dont have the load resistance built into it.
     
  7. adrianp89

    adrianp89 Senior Member

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    That's what I thought... I don't think I have ever even used the hi-level on amp before. .
     
  8. wsutard1

    wsutard1 Senior Member

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    I would recomend returning the LC2i and going with the LCQ-1. The LCQ will allow you multi channel output so you can run mutiple amps.

    Additionally, the equalization of the LCQ is very much needed in these trucks. The factory radios are set to pump up the high end to levels that really suck when you upgrade your system. Which is also why I would advise the LCQ even if your amps take line level input.

    If you don't have the Alpine system then this might work for you.
    Signal:
    1. Identify the speaker outputs at the head unit harness and cut them. If you are using the LC2 then only cut the front. If you are using the LCQ then cut the front and rear.
    2. Leave as much wire as possible on the harness side in case you need to reconnect them later.
    3. Connect the harness side of the cuts to new wire and run that to wherever your Audio Control is located. Some prefer soldiering, some ue butt connectors, I personally like Posi-Lock connectors.
    4. These will be your line level inputs the Audio Control will use.

    Power for Audio Controls:
    1. Two options, tap into an existing power source like the AUX power in the center console. or, use the power you are running to your amps. Both ways work.
    2. Make sure you properly ground the unit. Easiest place it to use the ground your amps are using.

    Obviously run the RCAs to the amps.
    This should be it.
     
  9. Graygoose

    Graygoose Diplorable

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    we do a lot, less chance of added noise.
     
  10. Tinmanzroad36

    Tinmanzroad36 Junior Member

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    I wired in the LC2i behind the head unit, splicing into the outgoing rear +/- wires. When I turn everything on, the subs barely come on, and the door speakers come on but drop out as soon as I start turning up the sound.
     

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