Valves or Rings?

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neonhomer

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Bought a 99 Ram 1500 w/ the 5.2. The motor has a known dead cylinder. The previous owner did a compression test on the motor and found most of the cylinders were in the 120-140 psi range, except for # 3 (I think, 2nd back on the driver's side). It had 50psi.

Between me and a mechanic friend of mine, we are thinking it is a valve issue, based on these things:

  • There is an exhaust leak at the manifold for this cylinder
  • There is no oil smoke from exhaust

Now here's the good part. I have access to a complete 5.9 engine. I was going to take the heads off this motor and put on the 318. (I thought about just swapping in the 360, but I don't want to take the mileage hit or have to cough up the extra parts.)

So, hopefully, after this is done, and a few other minor details are fixed, I should have a fairly good running truck...
 

dapepper9

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Well 360 swap wouldn't be much, flexplate and pcm is really all you'd need. PCM could even come later.

But, go for the head swap. If it turns out that you had bad heads on the 318 and this fixes it, great. If not, swap the 360 block. There really isn't any mileage difference, in fact 360 will often get better mileage.
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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I remember something about being able to run the 360 on the 318 PCM, but didn't know what the problems would be.
 

crazzywolfie

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if you got access to a compression tester you may want to do your own compression check and make sure to do both dry and wet compression tests. the wet test will help you figure out if it is the rings. if you had access to a leak down tester it should let you know exactly where your issue is if the cylinder truely has that low of compression
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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Well... this just went from bad to worse. Me and a friend started tearing into the motor. The first sign of trouble was when some bolts were tight, and some were not (like the bracket bolts). As we got further into the motor, we finally get the intake off...

and run into about a 1/2" of sludge and crap on top of the lifter retainer bracket.

So... now we have pulled back and are going a different route. Motor is coming out for a rebuild. We already have reman heads. We're gonna order a Engine Rebuild Kit from Rock Auto, which comes with bearings, gaskets, freeze plugs and galley plugs, pistons, rings, oil pump, and timing set for around $250. The make of the parts is EngineTech. (The next kit they have includes the cam and lifters and is $450). I've never heard of EngineTech...

Other option is to go with part brands I know... Like Sealed Power, Melling, etc etc...

Stay tuned... and comments welcomed!
 

crazzywolfie

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may want to pull the head off the engine before ordering a rebuild kit to inspect the cylinder for any possible damage. no point repairing a damaged engine.
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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The motor is coming apart and the block is going to the machine shop before anything gets ordered. I want to be able to order over/undersized items as needed.

Found another company online that sells Master Rebuild kits, but they have components like Melling (cam, oil pump, timing set, freeze plugs), Federal Mogul (Lifters, pistons, rod & main bearings), Perfect Circle (rings), Victor (Gaskets), and Durabond (cam bearings).

Price: $650....
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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Better put your boots on... it's getting deeper...

Got the heads off last night. No obvious damage to the valves on the dead cylinder. Also noticed that there were no exhaust gaskets installed. Even better....


I don,t understand why you don,t just put the 360 in?

Because the 360 was a pull from the junkyard. Originally, it was going to go in my friend's 94 Jeep ZJ, but he decided to get out of Jeeping.

That and I would like to take some time (and save some money) to build the 360 a little.


So... I have a dilemma here. Three choices really..

1> "Poor Man's Rebuild" on current 318. Cost about $1000 (rebuild kit + Machine work to block)

2> Take the above 360 (which originally came out of a 96 or 97 Durango) and throw that in. Cost about $250 for necessary gaskets and finding a 360 PCM.

3> Take the 318 out of a junked 95 ZJ, convert over to 99 intake setup and use. Cost about $250 for gaskets and such.
 

crazzywolfie

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dodge never used exhaust manifold from the factory and if the manifolds and heads are still clean you can put them back together without it.

it is likely best to rebuild what you have. even that 360 or a used 318 could be a gamble unless you have them running or hooked to a transmission to even do a compression check on it.
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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I think we are going to go with the 360. I need to get this truck up and running.

Only thing I am trying to remember is if I need a 360 specific torque converter, or is all the weight in the flexplate now?
 

crazzywolfie

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if the 360 engine is new enough it should have the weighted flex plate. if not the best route is to get a weight flex plate.
 
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neonhomer

neonhomer

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Upon further inspection, it does have the weighted flexplate. I think I was thinking of the old LA series...

From what we remember (and what we scribbled down somewhere), this motor came out of a 99 Durango with around 90k miles. We put a borescope down the cylinders, and can still see the crosshatch pattern in them. Pistons have some carbon on them, but other than that they look clean.

Bad thing is the motor has been sitting for a few years in storage. We aren't even going to try to turn it until we get my prelube tool to spin the oil pump to lube the motor.
 

crazzywolfie

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all 360 are the same and externally balance. just the balanced flex plate made things simpler.

personally wouldn't worry about getting a pre-lube tool. pull all the plugs, put a bit of oil ot atf in the cylinders, removed the fuel pump relay and crank the engine till you start seeing oil. i think it will get there a lot quicker than you think since there is an anti drain back valve in the oil filter.
 
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