What all I need to regear

[newrammer]

Ok I had originally planned to go with new 33's with my stock 3.55 ratio but said to hell with that and am going to go 35's with a 2 inch leveling kit. What do I need to regear front and back? I have a family member who owns a ma and pa shop so he will be guiding me in this, but I'd like to plan out all the parts I need from you guys. I'd like to go 4.56, or is that a big price jump from 4.10s?

 

[xb1230]

Can't help on the price piece, and some research might get you the info you are looking for.

As for the parts, you need the new ring gears/pinion for both front and back diff. While you are there, it might be a good idea if you have the $$$ to change the bearings and seals as they are readily accessible when you disassemble everything.
You will need Carrier shims and some gear marking compound for backlash adjustment, as well as a dial gauge. The crush bearing sleeve and seal for the pinion. Have a good look at your u-joints while you are there they are inexpensive and you'll have to remove them to complete the work. And of course gear oil and additive.

Someone else might chime in if I forgot anything.

Hope this helps.

 

[MagSport]

The price difference between 4.56 and 4.10 is not that large:
4.10: 130$
Chrysler Dodge RAM 9 25" 4 10 41 10 Ring Pinion Gear Set 12 Bolt 1976 2010 | eBay

4.56: 190$
Motive Gear 4 56 Ring and Pinion Gearset Chrysler Dodge 9 25 inch Rear | eBay

The dana 44 gears are also within that price range, so if you ran 4.56's you're looking at (generous estimate) a cool 400$ for the gears and tack on another 100$ for all the little crap like xb1230 was saying. Of course this is also assuming you are trying to go the cheapest route out there. However, when it comes to swaps like this it's always better to splurge a little and buy quality parts. That way you only have to do it once. As stated above do some research into what kind of product you want to buy and get some input from what others run around here. But as far as price differences between gear sets, no matter which way you go, the prices are not that far apart.

 

[BBartow]

Ring, Pinion, Install kits. Front and rear. Look for packages that have both R&P sets and install kits.


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[Stegs]

go 4.56 ratio, i have them and you will love them

whats fun is when you put something like 31s on with gears


those tires just smoke....they dont stand a chance

oh while your doing it, make sure you doing all new bearings etc...

do it all, do it right, never worry about it again

also, that would be the time to ad a limited slip or full locker

 

[newrammer]

Thank you guys, I'm going to slowly start getting everything together.

 

[Merc225hp]

Ok I will bite

Just for a gear swap, simple list.

For the front, you can go thick cut gears or you need a new carrier for the gear ratio spec'd. Shim kit, minor install kit, all axle seals, axle shaft bearings for the intermediate shaft (cad area). You do need a case spreader for the Dana 44 to work on it right, prying the carrier out and hammering it back in is NOT the right way to do things.

For the rear new gear set, minor install kit.

All new ring gear bolts, YES you need new ones do not reuse these bolts. 9.25 ring gear bolts are reverse thread.

My op on bearing replacement; Is inspect them before replacing them, they are not cheap and do not need to be replaced if they are in good shape. Replacing bearings on the carrier requires special pullers if you don't have these tools you will need to get them.

Cost between the two ratios is negligible.

Me I would at least install a Truetrac in the front diff, extra cost but no time like now to do this.

 

[newrammer]

You said something about Dana 44's, as did someone else. I do believe I have 60's, will that make a difference?

 

[Merc225hp]

****** that right up, my mistake sorry I see 2500, so yes Dana 60's is what you have. Same applies to the 60 as to the 44. Rear has changed though you need thck gear or a new carrier there as well. You do have the opt to find stock M/T carrier cases for the ratio and swap all your parts to it, much cheaper but more labour to do it.

 

[newrammer]

Sounds like I'm gonna have myself a project

 

[xb1230]

...You do need a case spreader for the Dana 44 to work on it right, prying the carrier out and hammering it back in is NOT the right way to do things.
...

Forgot about the case spreader... I knew someone would chime in over me possibly forgetting something...

Thank's Merc225hp

 

[BBartow]

You do need a case spreader for the Dana 44 to work on it right, prying the carrier out and hammering it back in is NOT the right way to do things.

And who would do that

 

[Merc225hp]

So if you are not into the thick gears and not into going with say a truetrac this is what I meant by m/t carrier case. Saves cost and lets you use reg gears much better route to go in my op.

Taking for granted you have a Track loc now in the rear diff.

Yukon replacement Trac Loc carrier case for Dana 60, 4.56 & up - YC D706039

Yukon replacement standard open carrier case for Dana 60, 4.56 & up - YC D706041

 

[newrammer]

Due to cost I might have to go with that option. Thanks Merc!

 

[Merc225hp]

No problem

Not a lot know about that option, and I will take that over thick gears or ring gear spacers anyday of the week. As I posted it will add time to the job but not to bad. The front diff will take the most time as wheels, brakes, hubs, axles full tear down expect 5-7 hrs there.

Sure you don't want to go 37's and 4.88's lol.

 

[newrammer]

lol I think that's more your department. Definitely good at 35's, I still got family that needs to get in an out of it, it's already hard enough for some of them at stock height

 

[rowdyram]

You also need a dial type in-lb torque wrench to set rolling torque and the 60 uses preload shims no crush sleeve can be a real SOB to set up