Won't Stay running after timing chain replacement

[jdelliott]

Hey guys, new member here. This may be a little long, but I want to make sure that all info is given so that maybe we can get this truck running right, and from experience with other forums, a lot of members just say "HALP!!! It wont work" and expect you to figure out that they are out of blinker fluid. LOL

Anyway, the tl;dr version for those that are impatient: timing gear broke on my FIL's '01 1500 5.9L, replaced it, now it won't stay running. It does what is depicted in the video:

Dodge ram won't stay running after timing chain sw - YouTube

Now the long version:

My father in law and his next door neighbor replaced his water pump on his 2001 Ram 1500 5.9L due to bearing noise and seepage from the weep hole. After they replaced it, he went to go start it up, heard a sound that he described as nuts in a tin can, and would not even try to fire up.

I was called, and came over to inspect. Checked for spark, nothing. Did research, and he replaced the cam sensor in the distributor because that is the code that was being thrown. Replaced coil, and still nothing.

I got to thinking about it, and had him crank the engine with the cap off. Rotor did not move, and that gave me my answer: something wrong with the timing chain.

Pulled the water pump back off, AC compressor, alternator, power steering pump, and then the timing cover, and we were greeted with a cam gear shattered in four pieces. That explained the nuts in a tin can sound.

Bought the new timing set. I have replaced timing belts and chains before, but never after they have broken. I am more proactive than that with my vehicles.

So, I am basing what I am doing off of my knowledge of what should happen and when inside the engine while I am replacing it. Dots on the gears facing each other, straight up and down, from my research rotor bug at about the 1 o'clock position. I put my cylinder leak down tester on #1 cylinder, and was getting ~15% loss, which is acceptable according to the instructions that came with it.

Below is a picture of the timing marks as we had them aligned. If you cannot see the picture, let me know how to fix it, please.

Put it all back together, new oil, coolant, thermostat while we are there, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and coil. Anti-seize on the plugs, dielectric grease on the wires

Go to fire it up, and it will start, but you have to keep your foot on the gas in order for it to stay running, and putting it in drive and moving it is out of the question.

Checked the spark plug wires against an online firing order diagram, and #2 and #4 were accidentally swapped, so put them where they go. Still the same result, runs like crap.

I took this video after everything listed above was done, and I am hoping someone here can help me figure out what is wrong.

Dodge ram won't stay running after timing chain sw - YouTube

Thank you very much for you time and expertise. Like I said above, I have never done this when the crank and cam have been rotated in relation to each other, but I know the general principles of how to put it right, and I am afraid I missed something.

John Elliott

 

[Merc225hp]

Dot to dot or 12 and 6 is tdc for jug #6, both dots at 12 is tdc for jug #1. You could be 180 out depends on where you set the dizzy rotor. Was fuel sync set? I will try to watch the vid but I have a very slow isp.

Edit to add c/p from the fsm.

INSTALLATION
If engine has been cranked while distributor is removed, establish the relationship between distributor shaft and number one piston position as follows:

Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction, as viewed from front, until number one cylinder piston is at top of compression stroke (compression should be felt on finger with number one spark plug removed). Then continue to slowly rotate engine
clockwise until indicating mark (Fig. 18) is aligned to 0 degree (TDC) mark on timing chain cover.

(1) Clean top of cylinder block for a good seal between distributor base and block.

(2) Lightly oil the rubber o-ring seal on the distributor housing.

(3) Install rotor to distributor shaft.

(4) Position distributor into engine to its original position. Engage tongue of distributor shaft with slot in distributor oil pump drive gear. Position rotor to the number one spark plug cable position.

(5) Install distributor hold down clamp and clamp bolt. Do not tighten bolt at this time.

(6) Rotate the distributor housing until rotor is aligned to CYL. NO. 1 alignment mark on the camshaft position sensor (Fig. 19) .

(7) Tighten clamp hold down bolt (Fig. 20) to 22.5 N·m (200 in. lbs.) torque.

(8) Connect camshaft position sensor wiring harness to main engine harness.

(9) Install distributor cap. Tighten mounting screws.

(10) Refer to the following, Checking Distributor Position.

Checking Distributor Position

To verify correct distributor rotational position, the DRB scan tool must be used

 

[jdelliott]

Uh oh. I have been doing a bit of research since posting this. From what I am reading, the 5.9L Magnum is an interference design. Any one have any confirmation on this? From my experience, mostly foreign car, and some smaller engines from the big 3 (4 cylinder, etc) are interference, I never would have thought that an engine that has been around for as long as the magnum has would be that way too. If that is the case, the hour or so total that he spent cranking it over total over a week or more trying to get it to fire, plus turning the crank and cam over by hand to get the timing marks to align, probably means that the motor is trashed, correct?

It looks like I can get all the parts to rebuild for abut $750 online. Not looking forward to that, but if the valves and pistons did collide, then I am sure there is major damage, which explains the crappy running now.

 

[Merc225hp]

Im my book yes they are an interference motor, but over the years I have seen some get away with what's happened to your motor. Pull the rockers and look for bent pushrods that will be the best way to find out.