DIY - Homelink buttons used as AUX switches!

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firemedic10584

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Hey guys,

Recently took on the task of wanting to have an OEM switchbank in my truck but didn't want to put an aftermarket switch somewhere on my dash. So, I did some research and figured it out. I purchased this - 20 Amp Heavy Duty 12 Volt On/off Wireless Remote Control Switch - Agricultural Equipment - Amazon.com

Once it came in, I got to work.

Here's the module when it arrived - 20160401_091252_zps5q28dpni.jpg

I cut the original connections off and used male/female quick connects - 20160401_092100_zps3rs7y5vj.jpg

Pretty straight forward - 20160401_092107_zpseolbvz12.jpg

Next it's time to remove the center console. These are the two screws under the little mat just below the AC controls. Just lift up the rubber piece that is there to expose the 2 screws. 20160401_091549_zpsn7k95zpp.jpg

Next pull up the rubber piece down in the center of the console. There was only one screw here and it was a 7mm. (I believe my 2013 truck had 2 or screws here, so it may vary with your truck year). 20160401_091542_zps0cxvsklc.jpg

With the 2016s, the console part just lifts up. I pulled up from the back then worked my way to the front. It's just held in with retained clips. 20160401_092413_zpsnq8bjvpa.jpg

Disconnect the cigarette plug, the white piece just unclips. Then you can set the plastic console part out of the way. 20160401_092426_zpsnmyqdzb0.jpg

I decided to just mount the module under the console to keep it well within the range of the homelink buttons. Just testing it here to make sure everything is working so far. 20160401_092659_zpsv6gumvsg.jpg

After everything worked, I secured all the connections and I mounted the module using 3M double sided tape under the dash on just a flat surface close to where your right knee would be when you're driving. 20160401_093447_zpsdahojncr.jpg

Then after all that, just plug back in your cigarette outlet, put the plastic console part back on and put all 3 screws back. The remote that comes with the module is pretty much dummy proof. It has an ON and an OFF button. Simply program the ON button to one of the homelink buttons and program the OFF button to another.

Here's the video of it. I had to do the best I could making the video with my phone lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nHPQhgFER4

That's it guys. Make sure you use a fuse at the battery for your power wire for protection should something ever go wrong.

Hope this gives you guys some ideas. PM me if you have any questions or I'll check back on here.
 
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firemedic10584

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Important to note - as stated, some steps may slightly vary with the year of your truck when it comes to taking the console apart. I know on my 2013 truck, the chrome circle piece around the center that most people take off to paint black - the one on this 2016 truck is bolted to the plastic console part. Where as my 2013 you had to pry it up and off to remove the console part. Just be careful if you do this mod and don't break anything. You've been warned lol
 

grozier

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That's pretty cool. I just use mine to open the garage doors. Wonder if you could make just one button turn on and off auxiliary stuff?

2015 ram sport 4x4
 
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firemedic10584

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That's pretty cool. I just use mine to open the garage doors. Wonder if you could make just one button turn on and off auxiliary stuff?

2015 ram sport 4x4

If you find the right remote. I couldn't find one that had just a single On/Off button. Everything I could find had one button for one and one button for off. I only need one homelink button for a garage opener so it works fine for me.
 

moonshinexxx

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Bringing this one back up for clarity... OP, you ran the power from the battery into the cab to connect to the transmitter mounted in the console, correct? Would it be possible to mount the transmitter under the hood so no wires would have to come into the cab? Seems like a cleaner install process to me, but could it affect the signal transmission?

And from what I understand if one bought a toggle remote (remote transmitter would just have one button, not two) it should work with only 1 Homelink button - press the button for on, press the button again to cut off.
 
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firemedic10584

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Bringing this one back up for clarity... OP, you ran the power from the battery into the cab to connect to the transmitter mounted in the console, correct? Would it be possible to mount the transmitter under the hood so no wires would have to come into the cab? Seems like a cleaner install process to me, but could it affect the signal transmission?

And from what I understand if one bought a toggle remote (remote transmitter would just have one button, not two) it should work with only 1 Homelink button - press the button for on, press the button again to cut off.

Everything you said is correct - I'd venture to say if you mounted the transmitter in the engine compartment somewhere, it MIGHT affect the signal quality, but I don't know.

If you can find a remote with a single button that does both on and off, then it should only require the use of one homelink button.
 

9th

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Would it be possible to mount the transmitter under the hood so no wires would have to come into the cab? Seems like a cleaner install process to me, but could it affect the signal transmission?
I am using different wireless switch for my LED, transmission of signal affects. I just extend the external antenna.
Fog LED Lights wireless switch
sFaZcso.jpg
 

brownsanta

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been looking for something like this for my lights thanks
 

tcnoakes

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Sub'd

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RamRGud

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If you find the right remote. I couldn't find one that had just a single On/Off button. Everything I could find had one button for one and one button for off. I only need one homelink button for a garage opener so it works fine for me.

Is there any way you could get a multimeter to that wireless control module and test the 12v output for the light bar when pressing the on button on the homelink while the light bar is already on? If the voltage drops while holding the switch down or when it's depressed let me know. If so I can get this to work off of just one homelink button for on and off. Which will free up the possibilities for this mod!
 

AlienInferno

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So y'all think this will work with the homelink system. Want to get some lights and maybe a horn later on down the road. Supposedly you can set it up 3 different ways. The main two I'm interested in is the inching mode. Press and hold for on. Release for off. And the self lock mode. One press on. One press off.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XY60YEY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_VcOCybACESTF0

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moonshinexxx

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So y'all think this will work with the homelink system. Want to get some lights and maybe a horn later on down the road. Supposedly you can set it up 3 different ways. The main two I'm interested in is the inching mode. Press and hold for on. Release for off. And the self lock mode. One press on. One press off.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XY60YEY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_VcOCybACESTF0

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Don't know if this has enough load handling capability at only 10A... even with LEDs it wouldn't take much to overload it.
 

AlienInferno

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Don't know if this has enough load handling capability at only 10A... even with LEDs it wouldn't take much to overload it.
Ok so if I get some heavy duty relays (saw some rated up to 60/70A) and have this control them, then it should work fine?

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Damion

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My 42" lightbar came with a wireless switch. Synced it with the home link buttons and works great. I is on and II is off. No wires run into the cab.
 
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