DIY IPA wipedown knowledge

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ramportin1

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A really good read on mixing ratio for a affective AND SAFE IPA wipedown with knowledge from chemists, as many people mix it WAY to strong or just simply use it straight out of the bottle. This is from autogeek:

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

Here are the easiest ways to mix an approximate 10% solution for the most popular concentrations of Isopropyl Alcohol available at the retail level.


91% IPA
To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
Pour 4 ounces or ¼ of a 16 ounce bottle of 91% IPA into a 32 ounce spray bottle and top the rest of the bottle off with water. This will make 32 ounces at 11.375% IPA to Water solution.


70% IPA
To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
8 ounces (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounce of 17.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container, pour in 8 ounces, (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 70% IPA and then fill the rest of the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 17.5% IPA to Water solution.


50% IPA
To mix a 32 ounce Spray Bottle
8 ounces, (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) will make 32 ounces of 12.5% IPA to Water solution. Get a 32 ounce container and pour in 8 ounces, (or ½ of a 16 ounce bottle) of the 50% IPA then fill the container up with water and you get 32 ounces of 12.5% solution.



Why dilute concentrated IPA to an approximate 10% IPA to Water Solution
The most common dilution levels you can purchase over the counter are 70% and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, sometimes you can find 50% version. At the time I'm writing this article, there are no other articles on this topic to give people a general guideline as to how to dilute and use Isopropyl Alcohol to chemically strip paint. I actually made a post to an AG forum thread where I encouraged someone else to write this article, but to date there's been no takers, so here's my offering.

Most of what I've read are forum members recommending one of two options,


Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1

Use it straight out of the bottle




Most recommendations I’ve read from Anonymous Forum Members, (posting under Nicknames, not their real names that would tie them to their words and their reputations), are:

Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1

Diluting 91% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 45% dilution of IPA to water solution.


Diluting 70% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 35% dilution of IPA to water solution.


Diluting 50% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.


After talking to my chemist friends, they all felt that these dilution levels were overkill and too strong for removing residues after compounding and/or polishing paint. Most quality name brand compounds and polishes are water soluble and don't need a strong solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to dissolve, emulsify and loosen any leftover residues on the surface.

Their recommendation was for approximately a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution. The reason for this recommendation besides their chemistry background, is that a strong solution of IPA can stain and even soften some clear coat paints.

High Solids Clear Coats paints are "Alcohol Friendly", meaning products like Isopropyl Alcohol, can and will penetrated into, soften, wrinkle and/or stain the paint. To avoid any of these problems, a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution is recommended and adequate to remove any compounding and polishing residues without risking any danger to your car's paint or your customer's car's paint.


Another colleague in the industry coined the term Hot to describe strong solutions of Isopropyl Alcohol used to chemically strip paint.


Hot = How fast a liquid will bite into the paint, the strength of the dilution and the flash time for the liquid to evaporate off the finish.

Full strength IPA is a HOT chemical stripper, the stronger the ratio, the hotter it is.


My colleague agrees with my chemist friends that 50%, 70% and 91% dilution levels are all too strong to safely use to chemically strip paint. This person's recommendation was to stay at or below 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.


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As a chemist myself, I completely agree with the no-more-than 25% IPA concentration on painted surfaces. In fact, I would be more comfortable down in the 10-15%. I like the "Hot" adjective to describe the reactivity.
 
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ramportin1

ramportin1

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As a chemist myself, I completely agree with the no-more-than 25% IPA concentration on painted surfaces. In fact, I would be more comfortable down in the 10-15%. I like the "Hot" adjective to describe the reactivity.
Awesome! Yeah I have mine mixed at 15% perks of my brother being a paint genius. But almost everywhere you see people saying 1:1 ratios making it around 35-45%

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chrisbh17

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What do they use in the off-the-shelf "panel wipe" products? Is it just IPA or are there other ingredients that at least help provide some lubrication while wiping?

Im not a fan of IPA because I always feel like I did all the work to make the panel perfect, then use alcohol to wipe it off but the alcohol may or may not provide enough lubrication to prevent more marring (OK on my white truck, not OK on my black car)
 
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ramportin1

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What do they use in the off-the-shelf "panel wipe" products? Is it just IPA or are there other ingredients that at least help provide some lubrication while wiping?

Im not a fan of IPA because I always feel like I did all the work to make the panel perfect, then use alcohol to wipe it off but the alcohol may or may not provide enough lubrication to prevent more marring (OK on my white truck, not OK on my black car)
I have a bottle of wipe out, When I get home I'll see if it gives a full ingredient list or not.

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Thanks!

Ive also started to resign myself to polishes that claim to be compatible with whatever coating Im using (i.e. Optimum Hyperpolish before applying Optimum Gloss Coat)

IPA wipedowns dont seem 100% necessary at that point, but Optimum does make their own panel wipe product as well, that even claims to help the coating adhere better.

I was leaning towards GTechniq CSL for the next full detail on my truck, but keep thinking of staying with Optimum since their products seem to gel together so well.
 

McBroom

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I’m subscribed but am also clueless. I’m still trying to learn about detailing


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Pull Ya

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ramportin1--did you find any information on autopia? If not, I think I'll ask the question over there and see what kind of response I get from the detailer's over there. I found the info you have gathered so far to be very interesting and I haven't read anything anywhere else that goes into the detail you have. Thanks!
Jay
 

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Thanks!

Ive also started to resign myself to polishes that claim to be compatible with whatever coating Im using (i.e. Optimum Hyperpolish before applying Optimum Gloss Coat)

IPA wipedowns dont seem 100% necessary at that point, but Optimum does make their own panel wipe product as well, that even claims to help the coating adhere better.

I was leaning towards GTechniq CSL for the next full detail on my truck, but keep thinking of staying with Optimum since their products seem to gel together so well.

I have Crystal Serum Ultra on both my vehicles now. It is the best you can get in my opinion. I previously had Crystal Serum Light on my truck and it is just not as slick as the ultra. If you do go with the light top it with Exo V4. It is amazing to see the water just try to jump of the truck with that stuff on it.
 

chrisbh17

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I have Crystal Serum Ultra on both my vehicles now. It is the best you can get in my opinion. I previously had Crystal Serum Light on my truck and it is just not as slick as the ultra. If you do go with the light top it with Exo V4. It is amazing to see the water just try to jump of the truck with that stuff on it.
Ultra is too expensive for my blood plus I don't think I can buy it myself anyway?



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ramportin1

ramportin1

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ramportin1--did you find any information on autopia? If not, I think I'll ask the question over there and see what kind of response I get from the detailer's over there. I found the info you have gathered so far to be very interesting and I haven't read anything anywhere else that goes into the detail you have. Thanks!
Jay
This is actually from autogeek [emoji106] though I did find a bit of chat about it, this was by far the most in depth and backed by chemistry

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McBroom

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Ultra is too expensive for my blood plus I don't think I can buy it myself anyway?



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Why can’t you buy it yourself?
More info please.


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ramportin1

ramportin1

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Why can’t you buy it yourself?
More info please.


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road
I dont know about that specific product but there are many coatings that a regular consumer can not purchase themselves, professional level ceramics and what not

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Joshwaa

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Why can’t you buy it yourself?
More info please.


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road

GTechniq will not sell ultra to a consumer. You have to go through their training course to be able to get it. Main reason is if you mess up bad during application with ultra you need to sand it off. When applied it is rated at 10h hardness. It can withstand between 2-13pH.

From their website:

If you miss removing residue and it cures fully you will need to carefully wet sand the affected panel, repolish and then reapply Crystal Serum Ultra. Unlike C1 Crystal Lacquer or EXO you cannot remove the fully cured film with a cutting compound.
 
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McBroom

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GTechniq will not sell ultra to a consumer. You have to go through their training course to be able to get it. Main reason is if you mess up bad during application with ultra you need to sand it off. When applied it is rated at 10h hardness. It can withstand between 2-13pH.

From their website:

If you miss removing residue and it cures fully you will need to carefully wet sand the affected panel, repolish and then reapply Crystal Serum Ultra. Unlike C1 Crystal Lacquer or EXO you cannot remove the fully cured film with a cutting compound.

That’s way the **** above my skill level.


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chrisbh17

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GTechniq will not sell ultra to a consumer. You have to go through their training course to be able to get it. Main reason is if you mess up bad during application with ultra you need to sand it off. When applied it is rated at 10h hardness. It can withstand between 2-13pH.

From their website:

If you miss removing residue and it cures fully you will need to carefully wet sand the affected panel, repolish and then reapply Crystal Serum Ultra. Unlike C1 Crystal Lacquer or EXO you cannot remove the fully cured film with a cutting compound.

This.

And that is why I wanted to go with the "Light" version anyway. On a white truck I found it a huge PITA to not only find swirls to correct (they are there but the color is so bright its sometimes hard to stare at it and find them) but its also hard to tell if/when the coating is flashed and if there are any high spots left.
 

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Yea white is a hard color to deal with. I found that if you point a good LED flashlight at a 45deg vertical angle and look at it from a 45deg horizontal angle is about the easiest way to see swirls and marring. However trying to apply a coating this way is not feasible. To do a coating on a white vehicle you really need a garage with a bunch of lights (ceiling and walls).
 

chrisbh17

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Yea white is a hard color to deal with. I found that if you point a good LED flashlight at a 45deg vertical angle and look at it from a 45deg horizontal angle is about the easiest way to see swirls and marring. However trying to apply a coating this way is not feasible. To do a coating on a white vehicle you really need a garage with a bunch of lights (ceiling and walls).
Yep, except my ram doesn't fit inside my garage lol

The gloss coat came out good. I found it easiest to apply around dusk where there was some natural light but the sun was down.

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