AlfaOBD

[aimvee]

A few have successfully made changes with alphaobd on a 19 classic


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Was the bypass needed for the changes your speaking of here?

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[Lawsuit11]

Was the bypass needed for the changes your speaking of here?

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Yes it was. Go to M2Mods a vendor on this forum and Deereguy makes them. He will get you fixed up.


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[Lawsuit11]

I want to jump in to getting either the OBDLink MX or the MX+ scantool.

I read better reviews on the MX then the MX+, but I have an iPhone. I also have a spare laptop and an old android tablet so I could go either way. Going to also purchase the Alfa software.

SO... which one is the better OBDLink? MX or MX+

thanks

Either should work I use the MX but I would say use android. Don’t use windows. I’ve found a few things that would not work on my windows version so I switched to android and haven’t had a problem.

Mx we have heard no problems at all

MX+. Haven’t heard any problems but does support iPhone so you can use their regular OBD app if you want.


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[Wayne Stella]

When I installed my 7” Evic I thought I was missing the settings menu on my EVIC after changing IPC feature configuration to yes. I now have the settings menu on it.

@Ghost_RAM.
Should probably add this to the know working list. Cause like me I was clueless I was missing this menu until I seen the post above.


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Where in AlphaOBD is the IPC Feature Configuration?

 

[kyle.adams.171]

Guys Im looking for some help. Ive searched through the forum and cant seem to find an answer. I have a 2015 Express. I purchased heated mirrors with turn signals. I am trying to find the setting in Alfa to turn on the turn signals but am not finding the function in the doors section or the BCM. Anybody have some advice?

 

[Wayne Stella]

Guys Im looking for some help. Ive searched through the forum and cant seem to find an answer. I have a 2015 Express. I purchased heated mirrors with turn signals. I am trying to find the setting in Alfa to turn on the turn signals but am not finding the function in the doors section or the BCM. Anybody have some advice?

Body Computer/Car Configuration Change/Doors-Heated Mirrors Present & Mirror Turn Signals Present are the 5th and 6th ones down in Doors after Wireless. I added tow mirrors that are heated and have turn signals with puddle lights and they work fine.

 

[Wayne Stella]

Here is mine.

 

[Reefer]

17 ram 2500 5" touchscreen, oem backup camera, is there a step by step alfaobd video or right up? I cant get my camera to work and I tried to program it already with alfa but I don't know the process. Thanks

Never mind, I got it

 

[nicholsr11]

The relay harness can go also. Those are two points of failure that aren’t required anymore when the hid setting is enabled.

How do you wire the truck without the harness? Do you run out of wire length to tie in the ballast? I’m looking to ditch my resistors and relays. They have been nothing but a headache for me for 3 years. If there is a wiring diagram amongst this super popular thread I missed it.

Thanks


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[Jimmy07]

How do you wire the truck without the harness? Do you run out of wire length to tie in the ballast? I’m looking to ditch my resistors and relays. They have been nothing but a headache for me for 3 years. If there is a wiring diagram amongst this super popular thread I missed it.

Thanks


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Once you get rid of the relay harness, you should be left with something similar to this no matter what kit you have (bulb, ballast/igniter, grommet with extension)-
Connect the to circled in red together. Connect the one circled in green to the low beam connector inside the headlight housing (the one that got unplugged from the original halogen bulb).

 

[them0difier]

Once you get rid of the relay harness, you should be left with something similar to this no matter what kit you have (bulb, ballast/igniter, grommet with extension)-
Connect the to circled in red together. Connect the one circled in green to the low beam connector inside the headlight housing (the one that got unplugged from the original halogen bulb).

The biggest problem with our trucks, and running HID’s is that there’s no way to adjust when the headlights come on when they are switched to “auto”. HID’s require at least a 5 sec delay when you first start the vehicle to give it enough time to get to full voltage before engaging the headlamps. The lower voltage puts a serious strain on the bulbs and ballast. That’s one of the many reasons there a failures with aftermarket HID’s.


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[Jimmy07]

The biggest problem with our trucks, and running HID’s is that there’s no way to adjust when the headlights come on when they are switched to “auto”.

I’ve never heard of this or had a problem with this. When the headlights come on in the “auto” setting, is determined by the amount of ambient light detected by the sun sensor in the middle of the dash by the bottom of the windshield, not the type of bulbs being used.

HID’s require at least a 5 sec delay when you first start the vehicle to give it enough time to get to full voltage before engaging the headlamps. The lower voltage puts a serious strain on the bulbs and ballast.

You don’t have to wait to turn the headlights on. The ballast is just sitting there waiting for power. Once power is supplied from the source, the ballast steps up the voltage to the igniter and excites the gases inside the lamp. You can take a 12v battery on the bench that is 90% discharged, hook it up to an HID kit, and the ballasts will still be able to ignite the bulbs. Why? Because ballasts can operate down to 9v, as long as there’s enough amps for the ballast to draw to fire the lamps. There is a couple seconds delay, but it’s not to turn the bulbs on. The bulbs come on immediately. It’s to get the lamps fired to full brightness. For this reason, I wouldn’t use them as high beams.

That’s one of the many reasons there a failures with aftermarket HID’s

For our trucks, it’s not that the HIDs fail, but the fact that the low beam circuit uses PWM (pulse width modulation). This is the rapid throttling on and off of the 12v supply to the bulbs so that halogen bulbs will last longer. A ballast needs consistent 12v supply to fire the bulb, and when PWM is used, the ballast struggles to step up the voltage, and ultimately flickers and shuts off. The relay harness is used so that the ballast can get it’s consistent 12v straight from the battery, and use the low beam circuit as the trigger. These relay harnesses are subject to failure because PWM is still being used as the trigger, which creates relay chatter, which reduces the life of the relay itself.
So, all that being said, the AlfaOBD has the capability to shut off the PWM, therefore allowing any HID kit (even the cheap ones) to operate as designed for a long time.

 

[chrisbh17]

In regards to the 5 second warmup, Im thinking they were referring to something like a tunnel where you will go in, a couple seconds later the auto headlights would trigger but less than 5 seconds after that you are out of the tunnel and the headlights are back off.

They never got to full warm in the tunnel which in itself is probably not a HUGE issue, but the extra cycle of on/off wasnt great for the bulbs or ballasts.

Im curious if there is a setting in Alfa for something like a light level threshold for the auto headlights.

 

[g-ram]

I’ve never heard of this or had a problem with this. When the headlights come on in the “auto” setting, is determined by the amount of ambient light detected by the sun sensor in the middle of the dash by the bottom of the windshield, not the type of bulbs being used.

You don’t have to wait to turn the headlights on. The ballast is just sitting there waiting for power. Once power is supplied from the source, the ballast steps up the voltage to the igniter and excites the gases inside the lamp. You can take a 12v battery on the bench that is 90% discharged, hook it up to an HID kit, and the ballasts will still be able to ignite the bulbs. Why? Because ballasts can operate down to 9v, as long as there’s enough amps for the ballast to draw to fire the lamps. There is a couple seconds delay, but it’s not to turn the bulbs on. The bulbs come on immediately. It’s to get the lamps fired to full brightness. For this reason, I wouldn’t use them as high beams.

For our trucks, it’s not that the HIDs fail, but the fact that the low beam circuit uses PWM (pulse width modulation). This is the rapid throttling on and off of the 12v supply to the bulbs so that halogen bulbs will last longer. A ballast needs consistent 12v supply to fire the bulb, and when PWM is used, the ballast struggles to step up the voltage, and ultimately flickers and shuts off. The relay harness is used so that the ballast can get it’s consistent 12v straight from the battery, and use the low beam circuit as the trigger. These relay harnesses are subject to failure because PWM is still being used as the trigger, which creates relay chatter, which reduces the life of the relay itself.
So, all that being said, the AlfaOBD has the capability to shut off the PWM, therefore allowing any HID kit (even the cheap ones) to operate as designed for a long time.

Which setting in alfa do you use to turn off pmw

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[Lawsuit11]

Where in AlphaOBD is the IPC Feature Configuration?

ECU config 4


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[Jimmy07]

Which setting in alfa do you use to turn off pmw

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VehicleConfig 3: high intensity discharge lamps enable.

 

[Jimmy07]

In regards to the 5 second warmup, Im thinking they were referring to something like a tunnel where you will go in, a couple seconds later the auto headlights would trigger but less than 5 seconds after that you are out of the tunnel and the headlights are back off.

They never got to full warm in the tunnel which in itself is probably not a HUGE issue, but the extra cycle of on/off wasnt great for the bulbs or ballasts.

Im curious if there is a setting in Alfa for something like a light level threshold for the auto headlights.

This is true, but personally, I would consider the argument in that situation moot. It takes a good few seconds for that sensor to pick up on the tunnel and turn the headlights on anyway, then, after leaving the tunnel, another few seconds to shut off, so I’m left not being able to see the cluster or radio. I do wish the sensitivity was adjustable, but it’s kind of a catch 22, because when the sun is rising or setting, I think they come on too soon in auto.

 

[TonyMM]

For our trucks, it’s not that the HIDs fail, but the fact that the low beam circuit uses PWM (pulse width modulation). This is the rapid throttling on and off of the 12v supply to the bulbs so that halogen bulbs will last longer. A ballast needs consistent 12v supply to fire the bulb, and when PWM is used, the ballast struggles to step up the voltage, and ultimately flickers and shuts off. The relay harness is used so that the ballast can get it’s consistent 12v straight from the battery, and use the low beam circuit as the trigger. These relay harnesses are subject to failure because PWM is still being used as the trigger, which creates relay chatter, which reduces the life of the relay itself.
So, all that being said, the AlfaOBD has the capability to shut off the PWM, therefore allowing any HID kit (even the cheap ones) to operate as designed for a long time.

My HIDs were working fine without Alfa and with that stuff (resistors etc..).

But for the reasons cited above I however changed in Alfa the setting to HID in order to get rid of the PWM and in order to achieve a longer life of my HID. I also turned the auto switch off so that I have less on/off cycles.

 

[gapi]

Heh, I stopped messing with factory lighting way back. Big can-o-worms money pit usually resulting in minimal improvment or glaring other motorists. But have at it guys.

 

[RipTheDuke]

Hey guys. Over here in Austin, TX. 2013 ram 2500. Laramie package.

Everything has been running great with the changes. Did have a code pop up.

Tried to include a picture but the app says it is spam like. Code is U0100.

Lost connection with ECM/PCM. The error is intermittent. Last test is positively completed. Failure warning lamp ‘ON’: Not requested.

Problem is that it causes my auto start to turn off. I tried to clear the code (engine off with the ignition in the RUN position).

Says that it cleared the code but the check engine light does not turn off.

Any ideas? Anyone seen this code before? Hell, overall thoughts?


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Wanted to update everyone on what I found in case anyone runs into this. Connections were all good. No bad wires. Turbo replacement required. Cheapest I have found so far was 2700 after market with a one year warranty. OEM is 4400.

Expecting to see quite a bit of build up in the turbo. Def is already gone but going to full delete since I have to put in the new turbo.

Company with the turbos said for some reason business is booming and they are back ordered. Said they were not sure if trucks are all hitting mileage at the same time or what.

Only have 107k miles. Thanks 100 thousand mile warranty. Stupid def!!


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