How-To: 4th gen hemi cam installation

[msedly]

Thanks for the response msedly. Is your Tick towards the rear of the engine on the driver side? I haven’t had any time to really look into the tick but had a couple brief moments where I did and it almost sounds like it could be an exhaust manifold leak as I did replace the gaskets. But it’s just an assumption. The truck runs great except for that darn tick. I have been thinking about running the same Redline 5w30 but was worried about having issues with MDS. Did you remove your MDS?

Definitely from the bottom side of the engine. Seems more pronounced on the drivers side. Engine is quiet as ever up top with the hood open, just some valve & injector noise like normal.

I went with the non-MDS camshaft and used the tuner to disable it so I don't get any codes.

I don't think slightly thicker oil will hurt anything other than your gas mileage maybe. The lighter oil is probably better if you still have MDS, but many folks are running Redline 5w30 on both with good results.

 

[2012batteringRAM]

Definitely from the bottom side of the engine. Seems more pronounced on the drivers side. Engine is quiet as ever up top with the hood open, just some valve & injector noise like normal.

I went with the non-MDS camshaft and used the tuner to disable it so I don't get any codes.

I don't think slightly thicker oil will hurt anything other than your gas mileage maybe. The lighter oil is probably better if you still have MDS, but many folks are running Redline 5w30 on both with good results.

All good info...thanks again msedly!

 

[Wild one]

I'd clear codes..and maybe prime engine prior to starting... if you have ignition key and not the push start... hold foot down on gas pedal and crank... it won't fire the motor but will build some oil pressure

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You don't want to use the starter to build oil pressure,you're better off starting it.It'll build oil pressure faster and won't hurt the bearings.Doing it your way,means it takes more revolutions to get oil to the bearings and they actually run dry longer.Ask any reputable engine builder .

 

[ColeRamsWorld]

Update and request for some guidance, please!

2012 Ram 1500 5.7L with 93K miles. Just completed replacement of MDS cam to non-mds cam with hellcat lifters. Kit came from Modern Muscle Extreme with Diablo tuner.

Everything is in and buttoned up. Truck fires up and when it is above 1000RPM it seems to be fine but once it gets to idling zone it begins to shake and want to cut off. Also, changed camshaft sensor since everything was off.

My research says there are a number of parts that can be replaced or inspected. Starting with vacuum leak, crankshaft sensor, 02 sensors and the list goes on.

Curious what you all have experienced here because the truck wont stay running sounds good over 1000RPM but wants to shake and cut off at idling zone.

 

[ben dasinger]

fixing to do the cam swap with a non mds stock cam. i hear both you need the truck at tdc or you dont. i have never done this befor and was thinking that as long as you mark everything you dont need it at tdc, right? as long as the crank or the chain dont move and you line up the marks you should be good right?

 

[Jeff Krawczyk]

Great write up...love the info that there is in the forum

 

[Headbanger531]

This write up was perfect, very well done. I have a #5 misfire and I hope that I don't have to do this yet because it winter here and my truck is to big to fit in the garage.

 

[bobeast]

Outstanding write-up!!! You have firmly convinced me to pay someone else to do it.

 

[upstech76]

I have a 2009 Ram with the 5.7 Hemi that has lifter failure. Not looking for added HP, just a replacement cam/lifters. I'll be replacing the head bolts, all gaskets, etc as part of the install. If I do a MDS Delete, do I need a programmer to disable it permanently in the computer? Any recommendations on where to purchase the Cam/Lifters?

 

[DVTyr]

View attachment 195147 View attachment 195148 Great article but I need some assistance here. I have a '12 1500 5.7. Lifter on 2 seized and ate the cam. I do have MDS. Lifter and cam were replaced with stock from rockauto. I didnt have the time to do it so I had a good friend who's a mechanic do it. Truck is all back together.
Problem is, it started and idled fine. They test drove it and it died. I got it to start again but when I drove it, it wouldn't go over 1k rpm. I got it back around front to the bay and it died pulling in. It tried to start a couple times, the rpms jumped for a moment then back to nothing. Now it doesnt try at all. Battery is good, all fuses and relays are good. Hes gone over every connector multiple times and they're all connected.
We cant figure out why it wont start.

 

[Wild one]

Kurtis Holland isn't on here much anymore.You can find him on facebook usually. If it's got spark and fuel which it sounds like it has,do a compression test,if it's down on compression,good chance the cam is out of time.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/930...00988252790&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic

 

[DVTyr]

Kurtis Holland isn't on here much anymore.You can find him on facebook usually. If it's got spark and fuel which it sounds like it has,do a compression test,if it's way down on compression,good chance the cam is out of time.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/930...00988252790&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic

Roger,I was thinking the same unfortunately

 

[Wild one]

Roger,I was thinking the same unfortunately

There's some pretty crafty cam guru's on this facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/803402953067098/

 

[DoubleJ]

Appreciate the write up and all the comments. I'll be using this thread up when I go for the install in a short time.

 

[Colin15]

Hey there. I just finished following this thread to do a cam swap of my own and have a couple tips that might help someone out.

When timing I pulled the oil pump off. Got the open end of a wrench on the pickup tube bolt lifted the pump with it and slowly got it out. Getting the bolt back in proved to be much harder than getting it out (I didn't drop the oil pan). Have a magnet handy to fish it out of the oil pan if it drops. To get it back in I put a rag into the oil pan and wrapped 10 wraps or so of fishing line around the Bolt. Put the Bolt into the pickup tube and placed a small magnet on top of it to hold it there. The rag also helps to hold it in place. Put the oil pump back on and twist it so it's seated properly together. Use a finger or the fishing line up the bolt then pull the line so the bolt threads itself in. It worked for me. Hopefully It'll work for someone else too

I deleted the MDS system and found the easiest way to remove the solenoids was to break the top off them. In the middle there's a little plastic cylinder with a hole in it and a slot on either side. Use a small flathead to keep it from spinning and put a screw in a couple turns then use a nail puller screw driver to pop it out.

 

[Colin15]

Sorry I don't know how to get the pictures in order.

To remove and replace the crank bolt I used a 5 foot cat bar with a u bolt for my exhaust and a bunch of washers to keep the crank from turning I removed the heads to do lifters and reinstalled them with bbk shorty headers. If you're gonna do Shorty's I would suggest doing them when the heads are out. The only thing that needs to be done before the heads go back on is bending the oil dipstick tube down so it clears the headers.
Taking the cam out I found it binding until I moved cylinder 1 to TDC then it was easy.
That last photo there should go with the MDS plug thing in the last post.

Once timing is set, cylinder heads (if you're removing them) and rocker arms are torqued I had a friend advise me to pull a spark plug from each cylinder and turn the motor over by hand a couple times to ensure there is no resistance made from the valvetrain (timing is correct)

 

[Joe Pitz]

Awesome write up and great step by step pics. I will mark this for later use.

Cheers
Joe

 

[deck60]

wow, this is one hell of a read awesome!!!

I have a 12 5.7 I have the extended warranty and they said because I did my own oil change I have to pay for this out of pocket not happy!!

I am looking at the mmx with hellcat lifters doing the delete can the oil pump be changed without dropping pan?? and if the pan needs to be dropped does the engine have to be lifted

great read

 

[dell1991]

Nice how much does an cam install roughly cost for labor???

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[gapi]

Hi Guys,

We know coolant gets into the oil system pulling heads.....

I would like to know if you had to deal with oil in the coolant. I may have missed it in this thread. Was it mentioned?