Gears are Ordered

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FlatbedHemi

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They did my initial break-in cycles because the drive home was beyond the mileage recommendation by Yukon. They made about 6 runs with cool down cycles before I got it. Now all I have to do is the 500 mile cycle and then everything says Im good for whatever I want to do, including towing. Have an appointment for the inspection and all next Friday. I plan on making a 200 mile trip the next day pulling a 24’ stock trailer so I hope it is up to it. As far as I know there isnt any special break-in for towing conditions.
 

allenmp

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They did my initial break-in cycles because the drive home was beyond the mileage recommendation by Yukon. They made about 6 runs with cool down cycles before I got it. Now all I have to do is the 500 mile cycle and then everything says Im good for whatever I want to do, including towing. Have an appointment for the inspection and all next Friday. I plan on making a 200 mile trip the next day pulling a 24’ stock trailer so I hope it is up to it. As far as I know there isnt any special break-in for towing conditions.

There might not be on the Yukon gears
On the nitro there was like 3 15 mile trips with a trailer with 30 minute break to cool them
Or something like that.
I just hooked to my trailer and had a lap of 15 miles that landed me right back at my driveway lol
This was part of my 500 mile break in procedure
Then inspect and oil change and good to go
 

Blanked

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Did the shop say how the water got in? Do you have stock size tires?
I live 1 1/2 hours from Lufkin. What’s the name of the guy your dealing with
 
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FlatbedHemi

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Most likely the water happened when I got stuck during deer season. He said they also see it a lot with people who launch boats from a boat ramp. The seals are designed keeping the heavy gear oil in, but arent tight enough to be water tight.

The owners name is Cody. Hes a great guy and was extremely accommodating. I dropped it off after hours on Tuesday, they did the work Wednesday and Thursday, and finished the break-in Friday. I couldn’t pick it up until well after they closed so he charged it out to my credit card and left the key and the receipt in my truck with the old gears packed in a box in the bed. Through the whole process he kept me informed and was a really good sport about my constant emails and questions during the install. If I was to do it again, they’ll be my shop of choice.
 
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FlatbedHemi

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I am running 295/70/18 which were 34.25” new. When these wear out I am going with a true 35” tire, or maybe a 36” if I can find one thats not ridiculous expensive, if it will fit. I am only running a 2” leveling kit.
 

GsRAM

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Glad to hear all went well and you were treated good by the shop. That's so important. Customer service is really lacking these days sp that's great to hear...and i think you paid a fair price for the swap
 

DodgeDude99

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Damn $3100, did they even give you a kiss afterwards?

Parts are only $1300 for F&R gears & installs from a place like Alligator Performance. $500 install per axle is normal.
 
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FlatbedHemi

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Damn $3100, did they even give you a kiss afterwards?

Parts are only $1300 for F&R gears & installs from a place like Alligator Performance. $500 install per axle is normal.


Not too far off once you factor in the fluids and other parts I wouldn’t think of getting, the extra time they spent doing the entire break-in process for me, and the fact that they were extremely accommodating and wonderful to work with. May have cost me a little more than some, but I only had 2 shops in my area, and Im extremely pleased with these guys.

C2AD5F60-B97A-4FF0-B952-D9C0F07E9B98.png

98C75DB3-2EB9-4BB9-B370-CD12A9CAD431.png
 
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FlatbedHemi

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Nope no programming just dropped it off and picked it up when they were done.
Curious. What gears you using i used nitro

Well took it about 300 miles this weekend, and needless to say Im very please. Ran varying speeds from 55-80 and still averaged 14.6 (EVIC). She pulled effortlessly up the rolling hills of I20 to maintain the 75-80mph flow if traffic. Im loving it so far and cant wait to tow something and flog on it a lit bit.

Since I was smoking some ribs today and had nothing else to do but watch my fire and enjoy the day, I was playing with the AphaOBD software today and came across a place to change the axel ratio, so I did. Took it for a drive and didn’t notice any difference. I don’t know if its a critical change for shift points or line pressure or anything, but the service manager at my local dealership said it should be done. Again, I don’t know if it was necessary since it didnt seem to affect the driving characteristics any, but its a little piece of mind for me anyway. Will see if the program changes make any difference after some miles.
 

allenmp

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Well took it about 300 miles this weekend, and needless to say Im very please. Ran varying speeds from 55-80 and still averaged 14.6 (EVIC). She pulled effortlessly up the rolling hills of I20 to maintain the 75-80mph flow if traffic. Im loving it so far and cant wait to tow something and flog on it a lit bit.

Since I was smoking some ribs today and had nothing else to do but watch my fire and enjoy the day, I was playing with the AphaOBD software today and came across a place to change the axel ratio, so I did. Took it for a drive and didn’t notice any difference. I don’t know if its a critical change for shift points or line pressure or anything, but the service manager at my local dealership said it should be done. Again, I don’t know if it was necessary since it didnt seem to affect the driving characteristics any, but its a little piece of mind for me anyway. Will see if the program changes make any difference after some miles.


I think they done that as part of my swap since i had it done at the dealer but good point I'll check it out.
I am liking the alphaobd since i have added a few things to the tuck it has saved me some money. Hell just programming the mirrors it paid for itself lol
I really like the gears i used nitro and on rapid deceleration i get a little low gear whine but other than that they are smooth as butter
Now in used to them so sometimes i forget how much different they are. Lol
Till i decide I'm in one of those moods Haha
 

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Not too far off once you factor in the fluids and other parts I wouldn’t think of getting, the extra time they spent doing the entire break-in process for me, and the fact that they were extremely accommodating and wonderful to work with. May have cost me a little more than some, but I only had 2 shops in my area, and Im extremely pleased with these guys.

View attachment 178628

View attachment 178629


If you are happy then the money doesn’t matter. With a lvl you can clear 37”s with minor trimming depending on wheel offset:
 

warwagon98xj

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Since my 2500 has become more of a hauler/tow rig than a daily I have been thinking of going to 4.56 gears


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FlatbedHemi

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Since my 2500 has become more of a hauler/tow rig than a daily I have been thinking of going to 4.56 gears


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Gas or diesel? If gas, just jump to the 4.88. I just finished a 200 mile trip with mine pulling a pretty good sized heifer in a 16’ trailer (estimate 4500 lbs give or take a hundred) and it did great. Only actually used tow haul mode a couple time when it got hilly. Otherwise maintained 70-75 in 6th gear with ease. I know that’s not much weight compared to the max rating of the truck, so if you’re towing heavy, you wont regret the 4.88. I debated on 4.56, but figured 150 RPM at 70 didnt affect much, so I opted for the lower ratio for a little extra torque.
 

BarronTG

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Y'all are clearly knowledgeable about gearing, so I'm gonna hijack and pick y'all's brain. I have a Cummins, 68rfe, with 3.42 gears. I recently added 35's, and am about to delete the truck. I don't pull much, it's really just a mobile office, with an occasional small boat haul. Once these 35's wear out, I'd like to go with 37's. What gear ratio is ideal for my proposed setup?
 

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Y'all are clearly knowledgeable about gearing, so I'm gonna hijack and pick y'all's brain. I have a Cummins, 68rfe, with 3.42 gears. I recently added 35's, and am about to delete the truck. I don't pull much, it's really just a mobile office, with an occasional small boat haul. Once these 35's wear out, I'd like to go with 37's. What gear ratio is ideal for my proposed setup?
37s are not just 2 more than 35s. They're a lot heavier and can be wider also, adding more rolling resistance. You will need rims that are going to add more weight too. Add that to the reduction in gearing due to the larger tire circumference and you'll begin to understand why you'll need the shortest gearing possibly.

My truck is a 2017 2500 Crew Cab Long Bed 4x4 with a 6.4 and 4.10 gears. I plan on going to 37s too, but with the least amount of lift/level possible. I did all my computations and I've settled on 5.13 gears. That might sound radical but, these trucks have a 0.625 overdrive 6th gear. 4th gear is a true 1:1 ratio and will "feel like" your running true, old school 5.13s. Once you're in 6th gear, it'll only be a 3.21 gear. If you really want to know how that "feels", go drive a truck with the 3.21 rears in 4th gear.

Good luck. Lot of knowledge here along with many, many documented conversions. Read as much as you can, then gear down with a passion![emoji41]
 

Iron Outlaw

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37s are not just 2 more than 35s. They're a lot heavier and can be wider also, adding more rolling resistance. You will need rims that are going to add more weight too. Add that to the reduction in gearing due to the larger tire circumference and you'll begin to understand why you'll need the shortest gearing possibly.

My truck is a 2017 2500 Crew Cab Long Bed 4x4 with a 6.4 and 4.10 gears. I plan on going to 37s too, but with the least amount of lift/level possible. I did all my computations and I've settled on 5.13 gears. That might sound radical but, these trucks have a 0.625 overdrive 6th gear. 4th gear is a true 1:1 ratio and will "feel like" your running true, old school 5.13s. Once you're in 6th gear, it'll only be a 3.21 gear. If you really want to know how that "feels", go drive a truck with the 3.21 rears in 4th gear.

Good luck. Lot of knowledge here along with many, many documented conversions. Read as much as you can, then gear down with a passion![emoji41]


His is a diesel. I would go .410
 

Ingue86

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With the diesel on 37’s, you will need an axle ratio between 3.73 and 4.10. And like RoadRambler said, the larger tires and wheels will have more inertia and drag so 4.10 are really ideal to get back to feeling like stock. I also have a diesel and plan to run 37’s and I plan to use 4.30 gears. I want a little more torque at the wheels since I do tow on occasion and am willing to run a couple hundred rpm cruising on the highway.
 

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With the diesel on 37’s, you will need an axle ratio between 3.73 and 4.10. And like RoadRambler said, the larger tires and wheels will have more inertia and drag so 4.10 are really ideal to get back to feeling like stock. I also have a diesel and plan to run 37’s and I plan to use 4.30 gears. I want a little more torque at the wheels since I do tow on occasion and am willing to run a couple hundred rpm cruising on the highway.
:welcome: to RamForum!
 

Ingue86

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Thanks! Been lurking for too long...
 
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FlatbedHemi

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Y'all are clearly knowledgeable about gearing, so I'm gonna hijack and pick y'all's brain. I have a Cummins, 68rfe, with 3.42 gears. I recently added 35's, and am about to delete the truck. I don't pull much, it's really just a mobile office, with an occasional small boat haul. Once these 35's wear out, I'd like to go with 37's. What gear ratio is ideal for my proposed setup?


The shop that did mine said they did a cummins truck on 37s and put 4.56s in it. Said the guy uses the truck to drive to south Texas a couple times a month and he loves the gears. Might look into the 4.56. Since the cummins makes power so low in the rpm range, I would look at the peak torque curve, figure out what gear puts you there at cruising speed. I haven’t done the research so i don’t know what those numbers look like, but you can use the Grimjeeper gear calculator to play with different sets and see where your rpm will be.

FWIW, without doing the math, I think a diesel needs 3.73s in stock form, so with 37s, I dont think the 4.56 will be too low at all. Again, that’s without doing the math myself though.

Edit: Just did the calculations and 4.56 on a 37 (36.5”) nets a cruising Rpm of 1900 between 70&75.
 
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