Where is the best place to order the oil and filter for ZF 8HP70 Transmission

[cak446]

I'm going service the transmission on my 2014 Ram 1500. Who has the best price on oil and the filter/pan assembly. I'm in Canada, but I'm willing to buy in the states, as I'll be making a trip south next week.

Thanks!


Carl

 

[Dinky]

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-B-453-Au...qid=1568227785&s=gateway&sprefix=8hp70&sr=8-1

https://www.xtremediesel.com/ppe-zf...MVwh3eZ_bQdCBo9q8LdIkFY08HQBj0KxoCH4AQAvD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/search...E&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending


Not many places keep them in stock or even can get them in the states. Most auto parts places comes up dealer part. Dealer wants like $260 for it state side.

 

[Pull Ya]

Check with Benny from Mopar Parts--they are a vendor on this site.
Jay

 

[16RamHemi]

i went with redline fluid and the atp pan/filter. got the redline through @Nick@GotExhaust (vendor on here) and pan on rockauto. i had no issues since the service. atp pan has replaceable filter so if you decide down the road, you can replace just the filter.

one piece of advice: measure your clearance between exhaust and pan. i struggled mightily getting the stock pan off. literally no room and the exhaust doesnt move much there. i actually broke off little plastic pieces on the valve body getting it off. atp pan cleared no problem going on as it is a little shallower (not enough to matter). watching videos on youtube made it look easy and no issues. but my truck was a little different.

 

[meedom]

i went with redline fluid and the atp pan/filter. got the redline through @Nick@GotExhaust (vendor on here) and pan on rockauto. i had no issues since the service. atp pan has replaceable filter so if you decide down the road, you can replace just the filter.

one piece of advice: measure your clearance between exhaust and pan. i struggled mightily getting the stock pan off. literally no room and the exhaust doesnt move much there. i actually broke off little plastic pieces on the valve body getting it off. atp pan cleared no problem going on as it is a little shallower (not enough to matter). watching videos on youtube made it look easy and no issues. but my truck was a little different.

Hey 16, what was your mileage when you did the change, what did your fluid look like, and did you level the pan as recommended? Getting ready to do mine with the OEM filter\pan and Redline D6 fluid....

 

[QwikKota]

If you are out of warranty I would look at the aftermarket fluid that is only $12/qt. Quantum Blue fluid. I believe BND sells the pan kit as well. Watch out for knock off pans.

http://www.bndautomotive.com/

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[16RamHemi]

Hey 16, what was your mileage when you did the change, what did your fluid look like, and did you level the pan as recommended? Getting ready to do mine with the OEM filter\pan and Redline D6 fluid....

my truck had around 68k miles. fluid was actually decent. not much debris in it. no idea of its history. didnt smell burnt at all. yes i did raise the rear end. i parked nose down on a slight incline in driveway and jacked the rear end about 10" to level the trans.

 

[QwikKota]

my truck had around 68k miles. fluid was actually decent. not much debris in it. no idea of its history. didnt smell burnt at all. yes i did raise the rear end. i parked nose down on a slight incline in driveway and jacked the rear end about 10" to level the trans.

How many quarts did it take?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[16RamHemi]

How many quarts did it take?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

sorry for the delay. i purchased 2 gallons. used one. i plan to do another dump sometime soon (possibly).

 

[46RamMan]

When I service mine " I will service it every 75,000 miles". I am going to put a drain plug in it so next time it will be less messy... Much easier than without because the exhaust pipes in the way to drop the pan without spilling it and making a mess...

 

[QwikKota]

sorry for the delay. i purchased 2 gallons. used one. i plan to do another dump sometime soon (possibly).

That seems a bit on the low side. Did you refill with tranny pan level and engine running and all that jazz? I bought 6 quarts, hopefully I don't need more.

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[16RamHemi]

That seems a bit on the low side. Did you refill with tranny pan level and engine running and all that jazz? I bought 6 quarts, hopefully I don't need more.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

yes. jacked rear end up level, filled, did shifting/accelerating procedure, checked level then shut her down. then went for a drive to get it up to 180 yo make sure bypass valve opened up. went home, leveled trans and once it cooled down to required temp i checked iy again.
i was surprised too. i bought 2 gallons anticipating it taking more.

 

[Gero]

I think I'll be going with the ppe pan. I like that it's not plastic and should help with heat dissipation. I believe it will also allow for a bit more fluid capacity. I plan to backup onto some rhino ramps which will give it a good 10inch of lift.

Haven't decided on what fluid to use yet but I still have 2 or 3 years to decide. Currently only at 45,000km and I plan to change it at around 80,000km.

 

[Stefan N]

Buying OEM from Germany is the best way for me here in Sweden, but shipping may kill it for you?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Z...AM-1500-2500-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE/152807347286

 

[QwikKota]

yes. jacked rear end up level, filled, did shifting/accelerating procedure, checked level then shut her down. then went for a drive to get it up to 180 yo make sure bypass valve opened up. went home, leveled trans and once it cooled down to required temp i checked iy again.
i was surprised too. i bought 2 gallons anticipating it taking more.

Ok, sounds like the correct procedure. Was the pan hard to get past the exhaust pipe? I'm going to do mine at 80k but not set in stone. I have the lifetime warranty and trying to keep it a long ass time.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[QwikKota]

Buying OEM from Germany is the best way for me here in Sweden, but shipping may kill it for you?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-Z...AM-1500-2500-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE/152807347286

We can get the pan on ebay here for around $160 to $180. Have to be careful to avoid non-OEM pans though. They have less magnets and who knows filtering. The fluid is expensive though. If I were not under warranty I would probably use one of the off brand fluids that is known to be compatible. I purchased the Mopar branded fluid to cover my ass.

 

[gixxer]

Rockauto for the parts and depending what oil you want, you have a local shop in stoon that could get you redline. Mopac in calgary has great prices too but you're paying shipping.

Amsoil is another option, you could order directly from their site.

You can have items shipped to plentywood, MT and pick them up for a small fee as well.

 

[16RamHemi]

Ok, sounds like the correct procedure. Was the pan hard to get past the exhaust pipe? I'm going to do mine at 80k but not set in stone. I have the lifetime warranty and trying to keep it a long ass time.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I went redline and the atp pan. You ask possibly the most important question in this process, from my experience. I watched all sorts of videos showing the procedure. Im no mechanic but i can follow directions. Not one video showed any problems getting the pan out. Guess what....i STRUGGLED getting my pan out. I nearly screwed myself too. Knowing the mess and the fact that i was replacing the pan, i drilled a hole in the pan to drain the fluid. Worked great. no mess. But then as i had all the bolts out and tried to slide pan out...it would not come out. And the exhaust pipes move VERY LITTLE at this location. I started having a heart attack. I ended up forcing it out. up in the valve body there was a small "trench" made of plastic fins. Like where a wire would push up into. But there was no wire. I ended up breaking off some of these fins to get the pan out. No idea what their purpose was. I have not noticed any changes before breaking the fins. The atp pan is a little shallower than the stock pan, so going back in was no problem.

That is my #1 tip for anyone doing this service. Check your exhaust to pan clearance. Im sure every truck is a little different. And watch your forearm on the exhaust when checking the level. Worst location for fill hole. The entire set up is quite dumb. From exhaust, to blocking drain plug etc. all dumb. but do able.

 

[QwikKota]

I went redline and the atp pan. You ask possibly the most important question in this process, from my experience. I watched all sorts of videos showing the procedure. Im no mechanic but i can follow directions. Not one video showed any problems getting the pan out. Guess what....i STRUGGLED getting my pan out. I nearly screwed myself too. Knowing the mess and the fact that i was replacing the pan, i drilled a hole in the pan to drain the fluid. Worked great. no mess. But then as i had all the bolts out and tried to slide pan out...it would not come out. And the exhaust pipes move VERY LITTLE at this location. I started having a heart attack. I ended up forcing it out. up in the valve body there was a small "trench" made of plastic fins. Like where a wire would push up into. But there was no wire. I ended up breaking off some of these fins to get the pan out. No idea what their purpose was. I have not noticed any changes before breaking the fins. The atp pan is a little shallower than the stock pan, so going back in was no problem.

That is my #1 tip for anyone doing this service. Check your exhaust to pan clearance. Im sure every truck is a little different. And watch your forearm on the exhaust when checking the level. Worst location for fill hole. The entire set up is quite dumb. From exhaust, to blocking drain plug etc. all dumb. but do able.

Thanks a lot for all of the details. That sounds like a nightmare. It takes a lot of force but the collectors being removed from the manifolds should let the exhaust drop down at least a few inches. Typically there is a ton of rust on those nuts/studs what have you though.

The pan looks common to all ZF 8 speeds so FCA had to design around what they had but putting the exhaust right below the drain plug had to be done on purpose. It looks like a hex key to remove but it's not reusable from what I hear. I doubt a standard hex key even fits unless cut down to next to nothing. Our 4Runner has a similar hot fill procedure but at least no exhaust crossover. The cats are pretty close though. Definitely hate these sealed trannies. I wonder if it would be better (if at all possible) to try to suction pump out the fluid and refill according to procedure? The filter may be more robust than the fluid. I don't know.

 

[16RamHemi]

Thanks a lot for all of the details. That sounds like a nightmare. It takes a lot of force but the collectors being removed from the manifolds should let the exhaust drop down at least a few inches. Typically there is a ton of rust on those nuts/studs what have you though.

The pan looks common to all ZF 8 speeds so FCA had to design around what they had but putting the exhaust right below the drain plug had to be done on purpose. It looks like a hex key to remove but it's not reusable from what I hear. I doubt a standard hex key even fits unless cut down to next to nothing. Our 4Runner has a similar hot fill procedure but at least no exhaust crossover. The cats are pretty close though. Definitely hate these sealed trannies. I wonder if it would be better (if at all possible) to try to suction pump out the fluid and refill according to procedure? The filter may be more robust than the fluid. I don't know.

there are a lot of things to ***** about, but really its not bad. just tedious. im no mechanic and i didnt have any problems