Trans service

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Derek Powers

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2016 2500 6.4 creeping up on 60k miles. Book suggest trans service. What do you suggest? Full service with flush? Just filter and top off fluid?
 

68PowerWagon

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You probably will get a lot of opinions on this. I am going to do mine here in the next couple of months. I personally am going to do both filters & pump out as much fluid as possible with the tranny pump. There are several youtube videos on how to do this. And if you haven't already, get rid of that thermal bypass valve!
 

Fast69Mopar

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2016 2500 6.4 creeping up on 60k miles. Book suggest trans service. What do you suggest? Full service with flush? Just filter and top off fluid?
I wouldn't perform a flush on my lawn mower let alone a trans. Perform the service with a new sump filter and a spin-on cooler return filter and be done.
 

James L Wren

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I just did a flush with Amsoil did my transmission and transfer case front and rear diff's. the shop that does my service when they flush it they can tell with the pressure if there is a problem with the filter. I have been doing it for years never any problems. I have found with Amsoil in my transmission it runs 10 deg cooler when towing or plowing.
 
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Derek Powers

Derek Powers

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You probably will get a lot of opinions on this. I am going to do mine here in the next couple of months. I personally am going to do both filters & pump out as much fluid as possible with the tranny pump. There are several youtube videos on how to do this. And if you haven't already, get rid of that thermal bypass valve!


Ok...school me on the thermal bypass valve. What is its purpose and how do I get rid of it?
 

68PowerWagon

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Ok...school me on the thermal bypass valve. What is its purpose and how do I get rid of it?

There are a couple of theories as to why FCA put these on our trucks. One being this helps warm up the oil quicker resulting in better fuel economy. The other is it helps the engine warm up faster so it shifts smoother. I have pulled mine & found no difference except my trans temp is 30-40* cooler. When it works & is not sticking, it still reduces oil flow by something like 60-70%. It will be obvious to see why if you remove yours. And then if it does stick you have reduced your oil capacity plus doesn't let oil to flow to the cooler. Do a search on here & you will find where one user has a youtube video of how to replace this. Currently there are two companies producing the bypass. The one I bought (Revmax) has just reduced their price to $99.
 

CVX20

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Flushing causes more problems than it ever prevented.Replace the filter and as much of the fluid as you can get out(you won't get it all out).If you're real **** drop the fluid again after a few miles to get more of the dirty fluid out.Probably not necessary unless you already have issues.

Btw Would you guys that do the flush and not the filter,would you change your engine oil and not change the filter?
 

Blanked

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Drain and fill. Flushing will push the metal shavings back into the transmission . Ask me how I know from other vehicles
 

68PowerWagon

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What is the process for doing a "true" flush? Do they add lots of pressure to the system to push all of the fluid & gunk out? I am going to stick with my "generic" flush using the transmission's own pump. Can't see how that would stir up any metal shavings, especially after I have already dropped the pan, cleaned it, & then replaced filters.
 

Gr8bawana

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Ok...school me on the thermal bypass valve. What is its purpose and how do I get rid of it?
Getting rid of the factory thermal by-pass valve is totally unnecessary. Just more internet hogwash.
 

68PowerWagon

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Getting rid of the factory thermal by-pass valve is totally unnecessary. Just more internet hogwash.

I have actually have done it & have seen a more than 30* drop in trans. temp. Ask any reputable transmission shop what the single most thing that kills a transmission & they will tell you heat. If you really don't want to pay the $100 to get rid of the bypass valve, then I suppose you could cut the lines on either side of the valve & patch in a couple rubber lines to fill the void. That plumbing really wouldn't be any different than adding a oil cooler. I thought about doing that but as tight as the area is I thought it was going to be too much time & effort so I sprung for the Revmax bypass. If anyone still has their bypass valve please post a picture of the inside of it to show this gentleman how much of a restriction this thing is even at wide open. I think they claim like 67% restriction in flow & I was leary until I pulled the thing off. You might as well have straws from Mc Donalds going to your cooler.
 

Steve Tokash

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Probably depends on how you are using the truck. Occasional light towing its probably not a big deal. Regular heavy towing and maybe snow plowing it might be worth it. I will be plowing with my truck an i am considering it, but looks like we may not even get any snow here in maryland.
 

mtofell

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Pretty sure the manual for my 2014 says 60K service only for extreme duty (taxi, ambulance, etc.). Otherwise, it's 120K.

I'd only flush to keep a warranty intact but otherwise just drain/fill. Luckily, my tranny has failed twice so the fluid getting old hasn't been an issue since it gets replaced each time the dealer rebuilds it.
 

NOV87

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[QUOTE="68PowerWagon, post: 2194994, I am going to stick with my "generic" flush using the transmission's own pump. Can't see how that would stir up any metal shavings, especially after I have already dropped the pan, cleaned it, & then replaced filters.[/QUOTE]


Exactly what I do. This way I replace all of the old oil and not just slightly dilute the old used up tranny fluid.
 

RAM_Designs

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Just do both filters now, get that break-in stuff out of there so you don't have to worry about it anymore. Then every 60k just do a standard drain/fill without dropping the pan to get some fresh fluid in there. Should be fine.
 
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