Alright guys.. BILSTEINS post your pics!!!

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Addicted2fishing

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Personally I will be going 2.8 front. 1.5 rear and staying in the 33 stock size. Might go with a 17x9 wheel or 20x10. Haven’t decided. To each their own however, to me it looks like 35’s on a level make the truck look stock again and fills up the wheel wells. At least with a beefy 33 you’ll have the lifted appearance. Stock wheels and tires look a little small but the illusion created by an aggressive 33 and some lower offset wheel like -12 or less gives it an aggressive look without sacrificing too much MPG loss. In my humble opinion 35’s and a 4” lift is PERFECT. 6” 37’s. A simple level lift of 2.5 inches should still be stock size. There a few members here that had pics of their trucks with stock wheels and tires with 2.8 and I didn’t think they looked out of place. Look how much higher the 2500’s are and the tires aren’t that much bigger of any and they look perfect IMO


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E-rok

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Personally I will be going 2.8 front. 1.5 rear and staying in the 33 stock size. Might go with a 17x9 wheel or 20x10. Haven’t decided. To each their own however, to me it looks like 35’s on a level make the truck look stock again and fills up the wheel wells. At least with a beefy 33 you’ll have the lifted appearance. Stock wheels and tires look a little small but the illusion created by an aggressive 33 and some lower offset wheel like -12 or less gives it an aggressive look without sacrificing too much MPG loss. In my humble opinion 35’s and a 4” lift is PERFECT. 6” 37’s. A simple level lift of 2.5 inches should still be stock size. There a few members here that had pics of their trucks with stock wheels and tires with 2.8 and I didn’t think they looked out of place. Look how much higher the 2500’s are and the tires aren’t that much bigger of any and they look perfect IMO


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35s on 2.8 with a 1.5 body lift ;)
 

Ssanders

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Personally I will be going 2.8 front. 1.5 rear and staying in the 33 stock size. Might go with a 17x9 wheel or 20x10. Haven’t decided. To each their own however, to me it looks like 35’s on a level make the truck look stock again and fills up the wheel wells. At least with a beefy 33 you’ll have the lifted appearance. Stock wheels and tires look a little small but the illusion created by an aggressive 33 and some lower offset wheel like -12 or less gives it an aggressive look without sacrificing too much MPG loss. In my humble opinion 35’s and a 4” lift is PERFECT. 6” 37’s. A simple level lift of 2.5 inches should still be stock size. There a few members here that had pics of their trucks with stock wheels and tires with 2.8 and I didn’t think they looked out of place. Look how much higher the 2500’s are and the tires aren’t that much bigger of any and they look perfect IMO


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Yep, definitely a personal thing.
I don't necessarily need the "lifted" look, I'm ok with just a "stout" look.

I'm not swapping wheels or adding wheel spacers right now, so I'm leery of going over a 285 width for fear of rubbing the UCA.
It's looking like Bils at 2.8, UCAs, a 1" rear spacer, and 285/65/20 may be the ticket? Although I'll probably need to add 5100s in the rear with that setup?

I definitely want nice ride quality, no noises, pops, vibrations, squeaks, etc.... I just got done fighting all that on my other lifted truck even with all top shelf components, and I'm over it.
 

Addicted2fishing

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Yep, definitely a personal thing.
I don't necessarily need the "lifted" look, I'm ok with just a "stout" look.

I'm not swapping wheels or adding wheel spacers right now, so I'm leery of going over a 285 width for fear of rubbing the UCA.
It's looking like Bils at 2.8, UCAs, a 1" rear spacer, and 285/65/20 may be the ticket? Although I'll probably need to add 5100s in the rear with that setup?

I definitely want nice ride quality, no noises, pops, vibrations, squeaks, etc.... I just got done fighting all that on my other lifted truck even with all top shelf components, and I'm over it.

You should be good with that width and set up. I’d change the rear shocks like you mentioned also. The stock shocks aren’t the greatest. At least in my case. I blew one very early into ownership and my truck is never off-road

If you are concerned about MPG try using the wheel size comparison tool. Just google it and have fun. You can find the tire size that best suits your needs and compares it to the 275/60/20. Only issue I’ve noticed is oddball tire sizes get stupid in price. I was actually surprised at the weird sizes you can find but like I said the price becomes prohibitive


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Ssanders

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You should be good with that width and set up. I’d change the rear shocks like you mentioned also. The stock shocks aren’t the greatest. At least in my case. I blew one very early into ownership and my truck is never off-road

If you are concerned about MPG try using the wheel size comparison tool. Just google it and have fun. You can find the tire size that best suits your needs and compares it to the 275/60/20. Only issue I’ve noticed is oddball tire sizes get stupid in price. I was actually surprised at the weird sizes you can find but like I said the price becomes prohibitive


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I actually think the 35x11.5 Ridge Grapplers are the ticket... expect that the extra tread depth makes them much heavier than the 285/65r20s. Like 7lbs per tire heavier. Ouch. I'm not real interested in throwing 71+lb tires on the truck.

There's still that voice in my head that says just level the front and stick 275/65/20s on, but I've been down that road with other trucks, and the allure to go bigger haunts you.
 

Taylor513

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Hello everyone,
Just picked up a silver 2017 Longhorn, and need to liven it's look up a bit.

I've spent the last two days scrolling through this thread, and I'm on the fence on whether to stay conservative, (5100s at 2.1, and some 275/65/20 Ridge Grapplers) or go ahead and raise it up (5100s at 2.8, Mevos, 1.5 rear spacers and 35x11.5 Ridgegrapplers).

I do travel in the truck a lot, and when you go to the 35" Grapplers with the deeper tread they get pretty heavy, so losing significant mpg's is a concern.

I thought about a middle ground, of just leveling at 2.1, and going with 285/65/20, but a 34.8" tire may look a little disproportionate on a non lifted truck.

Any thoughts?

If you don't go off road a lot then I'd find a less aggressive tire and go with the 2.8 - IMO you wont see a huge difference in MPG's from 2.1 to 2.8 so may as well go bigger otherwise you'll probably wish you did later on. You could go 2.8 with the 34.8" so close to a 35" you wont know the difference
 

Ssanders

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If you don't go off road a lot then I'd find a less aggressive tire and go with the 2.8 - IMO you wont see a huge difference in MPG's from 2.1 to 2.8 so may as well go bigger otherwise you'll probably wish you did later on. You could go 2.8 with the 34.8" so close to a 35" you wont know the difference

Well, now I’ve been reading that the 3.21 rear end doesn’t like 35s and will hunt 7/8 gear on the highway.

I don’t have the truck here right now, but I’m pretty sure it has the 3.21. It’s a 2017 Longhorn 4x4.
 

Taylor513

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Well, now I’ve been reading that the 3.21 rear end doesn’t like 35s and will hunt 7/8 gear on the highway.

I don’t have the truck here right now, but I’m pretty sure it has the 3.21. It’s a 2017 Longhorn 4x4.

I have 3.92 gears so I couldn't tell ya but I believe I have read that. I'd do a vin search on your truck and see what gears you have to make sure
 

Addicted2fishing

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Well, now I’ve been reading that the 3.21 rear end doesn’t like 35s and will hunt 7/8 gear on the highway.

I don’t have the truck here right now, but I’m pretty sure it has the 3.21. It’s a 2017 Longhorn 4x4.

If you have he VIN you could look up the build sheet. Seems like they slap those 3:21’s in everything. It’s mostly to bolster their MPG claims I think and keep customers happy with MPG. The only 3:92’s I’ve heard of are people that specifically asked for it or bought used like in your case and ensured they have them. I commute way too long to
Justify that gear ratio and 35’s. I have 3:21 and stock size duratracs which are pretty aggressive in my opinion and have a softer compound it seems. If I stay off the city street and drive like a normal person I can hover around 20 MPG. Once I hit the city streets that goes down the toilet.

If you can afford the extra gas get the tires you want right away. Or get a less aggressive AT tire. There are some out there that have mild tread but slightly more aggressive sidewalls. Fuel tires come to mind and some **** cepek tires. I think maybe the Mickey Thompson ATZ also [emoji2369]. Find the middle ground and make sacrifices where it’s needed.

If I didn’t commute far or had a beater I’d have a 4” lift and 35 inch nitro mud grapplers lol. But reality sets in and I realize life’s not fair lmao.

Anyways, time Is on your side and take your time researching exactly what you want/need. That way no buyers remorse and you won’t have to deal with low ballers trying to sell your stuff at a fraction of original price


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co-pilot

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Well, now I’ve been reading that the 3.21 rear end doesn’t like 35s and will hunt 7/8 gear on the highway.

I don’t have the truck here right now, but I’m pretty sure it has the 3.21. It’s a 2017 Longhorn 4x4.

OK.....just gonna throw this out here.......my truck is an 18 1500 2wd ....... with stock tires and 3.21s it would " hunt 7/8 gear on highway"
after 4" lift & 35's it seems to hold better! ?? ........ of corse you gotta be running almost 70mph before it wants to go in 8
 

E-rok

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Well, now I’ve been reading that the 3.21 rear end doesn’t like 35s and will hunt 7/8 gear on the highway.

I don’t have the truck here right now, but I’m pretty sure it has the 3.21. It’s a 2017 Longhorn 4x4.

I have 35s and ~4" lift with 3.21s and it definitely does not use 8th as much when going around 70 unless on flat ground. Go a little faster and it uses 8th more, go like 60 and it uses 8th more.

You notice it for a week or 2 then just kinda forget about it.
 

hardcharger77

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Bilstein 6112 up front at 2” setting. 5100 in rear with stock coils for now. Sitting maybe 0.5” low in the rear, but Icon 1.5” coils are on the way.

Now:

d052f338965f50e7381f4d2b455e17b2.jpg

Before:

c167463a2c98d8716c06d2ac4bd35f08.jpg


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Ssanders

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I have 35s and ~4" lift with 3.21s and it definitely does not use 8th as much when going around 70 unless on flat ground. Go a little faster and it uses 8th more, go like 60 and it uses 8th more.

You notice it for a week or 2 then just kinda forget about it.

I just pulled my build sheet, and confirmed that it's a 3.21.

My commute is mostly 70mph on flat ground, but it will make road trips all around the south east. It will see plenty of muddy, gravel, and hunting camp roads as well.

I don't really drive with a heavy foot anyway... so long as you don't notice a big hit in "passing" ability, or can easily hear/feel the more frequent 8/7 shifting, then I'll probably go with the 285/65r20s.
 
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E-rok

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I just pulled my build sheet, and confirmed that it's a 3.21.

My commute is mostly 70mph on flat ground, but it will make road trips all around the south east. It will see plenty of muddy, gravel, and hunting camp roads as well.

I don't really drive with a heavy foot anyway... so long as you don't notice a big hit in "passing" ability, or can easily hear/feel the more frequent 8/7 shifting, then I'll probably go with the 285/65r20s.

Acceleration is definitely not a problem, id say the MDS is more annoying than anything, but I also have a Flowmaster muffler which makes the MDS more pronounced.
 

Ssanders

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Acceleration is definitely not a problem, id say the MDS is more annoying than anything, but I also have a Flowmaster muffler which makes the MDS more pronounced.

Does it not use the MDS as often?
 

Addicted2fishing

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Acceleration is definitely not a problem, id say the MDS is more annoying than anything, but I also have a Flowmaster muffler which makes the MDS more pronounced.

Turn off MDS. I use the poor mans way of just putting it in 8 as soon as I select D. Hit the downshift to 1 and select 8. Drive away. No MDS


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bchap05

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I have 35s and ~4" lift with 3.21s and it definitely does not use 8th as much when going around 70 unless on flat ground. Go a little faster and it uses 8th more, go like 60 and it uses 8th more.

You notice it for a week or 2 then just kinda forget about it.

I usually just go one mph higher than I really want to go with cruise. Let it get to speed then drop it back 1-2 mph and it will shift and hold 8th pretty well unless you hit a hill.
 

E-rok

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Turn off MDS. I use the poor mans way of just putting it in 8 as soon as I select D. Hit the downshift to 1 and select 8. Drive away. No MDS


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Yea I do that when it bugs me
 
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