Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

[ToxicFire]

I have a 14 5.7. purchased at 69k. when I first switched to redline I went 7500 miles and did a used oil analysis with tbn reading. I was told to go on out to 10k. Second oil change was at 8130. I did another uoa with tbn and was again recommended to go to 10k. I'm not exactly comfortable going 10k, but the analysis was showing the oil was supporting it. I will always do a used oil analysis from here on out. It's a small price to pay to keep me updated with the health of my motor. I now have 86.5k miles and have 2 great low wear analysis. I agree with @Burla and would go 7500 miles and get an analysis done. I drive zero highway. I am curious how highway driving effects our engines. I'm a firm believer these hemis needs working. Not a beating, but getting into it often. Don't just putt around at low rpm where factory programming wants you.

And don't give up on redline after 500 miles. Stick with it!! Commit to a full run. It may get slightly worse before it gets better. But it will get better.

Well i just did my oil change on 14 sport. Has 52k miles on it. Has no noise and ran great but its hot here in the summer so i put in redline 5w30 and amsoil oil filter. Will change it to redline 5w20 for the winter.
Im going to get a analysis done and report back here. Also my driving is at least 90% highway driving if not 95% as we are rural and work 20 minutes away straight down the highway.



As for my oil change i decided on the 5w30 redline because thats what i bought and burla hemi and everyone else who have good info i decided to try the 5w30 and so far the only chage i notice was the oil pressure. up a bit on idle and driving.
Temps are same and MDS seem to work the same.

While i was at the dealer here a well rated one i was picking something up i spoke the service manager and there mechanic and he said 5w30 redline was a perfect choice in nice warm weather and will do great in the engine and they only do 5w20 for warranty and because thats all to do with fuel econo. They said here in canada 5w30 would be a better choice in summer then 5w20 in the winter but most people just buy a vehicle and drive it and it they see use this oil in summer then use this in winter it gets complicated so 5w20 is good it gets good millage and people dont know better well most he said.

So im a 5w30 redline guy for the summer haha.

 

[Burla]

0w30 for the year round play is probably would I look at doing. Then you don't have to overthink it. This thread will never apply to you, because my bet you wont ever get the tick. looking forward to seeing the uoa, there is a thread for it blackstone. First redline run is rarely good, but future ones look great. many reasons for that, leaching of ions and high aw additives that encourage wear before they discourage wear.

 

[ToxicFire]

0w30 for the year round play is probably would I look at doing. Then you don't have to overthink it. This thread will never apply to you, because my bet you wont ever get the tick. looking forward to seeing the uoa, there is a thread for it blackstone. First redline run is rarely good, but future ones look great. many reasons for that, leaching of ions and high aw additives that encourage wear before they discourage wear.

Yes 0w30 starting after winter is the plan. As i already have the 5w20 here purchased. It will go in probably end of october or mid november then ow30 will be purchased.

Oil filter is such a stupid location. Not sure if worst then of grand vitara we had as that one was at the bank of the motor half way down.Had to lay on top and reach down and feel for it haha.

 

[jlongjohn]

2nd oil change since purchase, I bought with 140k miles. No UOA yet.


2014 Ram 1500 5.7l CrewCab
Sent via Tapatalk

 

[NJ Zimaura]

Great read!

Man, I am bummed out that I had purchased 4 gallons of Amsoil 5W20 and also a bunch of "Hot Shot's Secrets" Stiction Eliminator Oil additive. Has anyone had experience with these?

Debating whether I should bite the bullet and just buy Redline 5W30 and the Lube Gard for the next oil change, instead of using the Amsoil and the Stiction Eliminator.

Any thoughts and advice would be helpful and thank you in advance.

2006 RAM 2500 with 5.7L Hemi @ 160K miles

 

[dexter]

Great read!

Man, I am bummed out that I had purchased 4 gallons of Amsoil 5W20 and also a bunch of "Hot Shot's Secrets" Stiction Eliminator Oil additive. Has anyone had experience with these?

Debating whether I should bite the bullet and just buy Redline 5W30 and the Lube Gard for the next oil change, instead of using the Amsoil and the Stiction Eliminator.

Any thoughts and advice would be helpful and thank you in advance.

2006 RAM 2500 with 5.7L Hemi @ 160K miles

"Hot Shot's Secrets" Stiction Eliminator Oil additive - do you have sludge?

 

[Burla]

Great read!

Man, I am bummed out that I had purchased 4 gallons of Amsoil 5W20 and also a bunch of "Hot Shot's Secrets" Stiction Eliminator Oil additive. Has anyone had experience with these?

Debating whether I should bite the bullet and just buy Redline 5W30 and the Lube Gard for the next oil change, instead of using the Amsoil and the Stiction Eliminator.

Any thoughts and advice would be helpful and thank you in advance.

2006 RAM 2500 with 5.7L Hemi @ 160K miles

So there is a chance the amsoil will work with lubegard biotech, I might try that if I was you and give it t least 500 miles. The hot shot would be something I would try now with the current oil, and let us know if it changes anything. So it has a nano lubricant, but also a "cleaner" I need to look into, kind of counter intuitive as you want a film in that spot, and if this cleans it away, it might not help tick much. So I would try it now, maybe it will work, hard to say, but we know what actually works, putting a metallic film in the right spot.

 

[Burla]

So good news, the cleaner they use is not a solvent but rather an ester, which is both good at cleaning and for metal. Try that stiction eliminator now with current oil would be my play. If not, then try lubegard biotech and amsoil, use redline as your last move. Have you ruled out exhaust bolts? From link...

A Group V synthetic ester assists in bringing deposits and additives back into solution, reducing friction and lubricating your oil system. Patented carbon nano particles are blended into Stiction Eliminator, filling in microscopic irregularities on the machined surface to provide a smoother surface for the lubricating film to form, which reduces friction and wear. Adding Stiction Eliminator to your engine oil results in a 62% decrease in wear over oil alone as verified by ASTM G-133 Third Party testing. The result is a cleaner, better running and longer lasting engine.

 

[NJ Zimaura]

"Hot Shot's Secrets" Stiction Eliminator Oil additive - do you have sludge?

No, I don't think so, just read that its good for older engines.

 

[NJ Zimaura]

So good news, the cleaner they use is not a solvent but rather an ester, which is both good at cleaning and for metal. Try that stiction eliminator now with current oil would be my play. If not, then try lubegard biotech and amsoil, use redline as your last move. Have you ruled out exhaust bolts? From link...

A Group V synthetic ester assists in bringing deposits and additives back into solution, reducing friction and lubricating your oil system. Patented carbon nano particles are blended into Stiction Eliminator, filling in microscopic irregularities on the machined surface to provide a smoother surface for the lubricating film to form, which reduces friction and wear. Adding Stiction Eliminator to your engine oil results in a 62% decrease in wear over oil alone as verified by ASTM G-133 Third Party testing. The result is a cleaner, better running and longer lasting engine.

Thank you very much for your advice and time!
I actually do have 1 broken bolt on the driver side that I could easily tell by pulling on the exhaust manifold heat shield. (Going to fix that soon, currently researching whether I should just fix or upgrade with long tube headers and fix it at the same time)
The stiction eliminator is more for prevention, and I am not sure if I really have any issues at the moment. From one of the threads you have posted, I got the feeling that it's not if the lifters will go bad, instead, it's when they will go bad, due to insufficient lubrication. So just want to help the engine as much as possible.

I currently have the Amsoil 5W20 and the Stiction Eliminator in the engine and it's been about 500 miles, and the engine seems to run a bit smoother. But cannot really tell.

Thank you for the good info!

 

[NJ Zimaura]

So good news, the cleaner they use is not a solvent but rather an ester, which is both good at cleaning and for metal. Try that stiction eliminator now with current oil would be my play. If not, then try lubegard biotech and amsoil, use redline as your last move. Have you ruled out exhaust bolts? From link...

A Group V synthetic ester assists in bringing deposits and additives back into solution, reducing friction and lubricating your oil system. Patented carbon nano particles are blended into Stiction Eliminator, filling in microscopic irregularities on the machined surface to provide a smoother surface for the lubricating film to form, which reduces friction and wear. Adding Stiction Eliminator to your engine oil results in a 62% decrease in wear over oil alone as verified by ASTM G-133 Third Party testing. The result is a cleaner, better running and longer lasting engine.

Also, did you mean to link something in your post?
I would love to read through whatever I can.

 

[Burla]

Also, did you mean to link something in your post?
I would love to read through whatever I can.

That was just the marketing on the stiction eliminator, I didn't post link because I copied the important part. If you want to read the entire page it is on the product page. As stated, the good news about stiction product is it is similar to redline as in it has esters. As far as battling these ticks, the question is how little esters can you get away with and end tick, maybe save money. You can't have all esters as the product would not be balanced and the seals would suffer. So additives are likely safe when dropped into group 3 oil, and we know redline is safe and balanced as many of us have used it for ten years. Let us know how it works.

 

[Anonymous007]

Following*


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RAMLUVR69]

Hey guys, don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a quick question.

You may have seen my other post where I recently switched to redline and had awesome results and my tick was completely gone but it has since returned after 500km (310 mi).

So my question is, has anyone else had the tick return? also for those with redline success, were your results immediate? or did it take some time for redline to "work in" and completely eliminate your tick? Thank you so much for any info.

EDIT - I did read the first 10 pages of this thread but I'm at work and have a new baby at home so if i missed this info somewhere else in this thread I aplogize. 0 free time these days

 

[Burla]

Congrats on new baby man!

Correct me if I'm wrong, I can't remember everyone's deal, but you had the high mileage ram? So I think you are blazing your own trail here, as the other guys haven't kept up with us. As you can see from the poll, even 1/3 of the people that have had success with redline still deal with tick issues from time to time. If that is you with the high mileage ram, we might have to make adjustments due to tolerances, widening tolerances is a real thing, so what is successful for someone with right tolerances like almost everyone else, and you, might be two things. We still have some moves to make, maybe even non redline moves, we just need some more time to figure out your deal.

 

[Fitz-0518]

RAMLUV, what I found when I went to RL from Royal Purple in my 2003 1500 5.7 QC with 265k miles. First 200-300 miles quite start up and hot idle. Started getting start up rattle and hot temp rattle. Got worse with miles and time. Changed over to Pennzoil 10-40 High miles. Butter smooth no rattle ever. What the techs and oil masters on the forum/thread suspect, concluded. RL is a high detergent oil. It cleans the engine well and quickly. On high miles vehicles this removes the sludge etc and the engine wear begins to rattle. My POV only. RL is not designed for high mileage engines. Works great/best when we start using after break in and before 20k miles.
My 2018 2500 6.4 had engine rattle on 0-40 PUP. Went to RL 5-40. Not a single internal sound now. Fitz

 

[Burla]

RAMLUV, what I found when I went to RL from Royal Purple in my 2003 1500 5.7 QC with 265k miles. First 200-300 miles quite start up and hot idle. Started getting start up rattle and hot temp rattle. Got worse with miles and time. Changed over to Pennzoil 10-40 High miles. Butter smooth no rattle ever. What the techs and oil masters on the forum/thread suspect, concluded. RL is a high detergent oil. It cleans the engine well and quickly. On high miles vehicles this removes the sludge etc and the engine wear begins to rattle. My POV only. RL is not designed for high mileage engines. Works great/best when we start using after break in and before 20k miles.
My 2018 2500 6.4 had engine rattle on 0-40 PUP. Went to RL 5-40. Not a single internal sound now. Fitz

Like the best post ever, thanks. I agree, but I am also conflicted because part of me thinks redline CAN be part of the answer with HM vehicles, but we will have to go outside that box, way outside, as in 5w40 in a 5,7. But bottom line, whatever works.

 

[Fitz-0518]

Like the best post ever, thanks. I agree, but I am also conflicted because part of me thinks redline CAN be part of the answer with HM vehicles, but we will have to go outside that box, way outside, as in 5w40 in a 5,7. But bottom line, whatever works.

Burla I was very surprised to see the difference in pour rate RL 5-40 is (slower) thicker than RL 5-30. RL 5-30 and Amsoil 5-30 pour (fast). Out of the bottle they are thinner. The only wariness I have with RL 5-40 is how it will circulate, pump and spray in our 6.4 engines. So far,,,,can't beat quite. Fitz

 

[RAMLUVR69]

RAMLUV, what I found when I went to RL from Royal Purple in my 2003 1500 5.7 QC with 265k miles. First 200-300 miles quite start up and hot idle. Started getting start up rattle and hot temp rattle. Got worse with miles and time. Changed over to Pennzoil 10-40 High miles. Butter smooth no rattle ever. What the techs and oil masters on the forum/thread suspect, concluded. RL is a high detergent oil. It cleans the engine well and quickly. On high miles vehicles this removes the sludge etc and the engine wear begins to rattle. My POV only. RL is not designed for high mileage engines. Works great/best when we start using after break in and before 20k miles.
My 2018 2500 6.4 had engine rattle on 0-40 PUP. Went to RL 5-40. Not a single internal sound now. Fitz

Appreciate the reply and that all makes perfect sense but my truck only has 86000km or 54000 miles. I'll just keep driving and see. Like I said I've only put like 300 mi on it since I put the redline in. My type a and impatience gets the best of me sometimes

 

[Fitz-0518]

Appreciate the reply and that all makes perfect sense but my truck only has 86000km or 54000 miles. I'll just keep driving and see. Like I said I've only put like 300 mi on it since I put the redline in. My type a and impatience gets the best of me sometimes

glad you only have type A. OCD and Type A can make you crazy. I know.