Alpine system speaker upgrade

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bigred90gt

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So, a couple of months back, I pulled the alpine sub and replaced it with a Kicker shallow mount 8” sub. I covered most of the interior and exterior of the OeM box with dynomat and stuffed some polyfill in it. It was a bit better than stock originally, but as time has gone on, it is now far better. It hits harder without the muddy kind of “blub” sound of the stock sub. I have never heard the pioneer sub, but I would personally recommend the kicker all day. It’s more expensive, but to me well worth it. At some point, I’ll get an LC2i and an amp for it, but for now it’s good.

that leaves me to the rest of the speakers. The center dash speaker and the ones in the headliner are staying. I just don’t see them as worthwhile to upgrade personally.

For the other 2 dash speakers, I ordered JBL GX302 and the corresponding metra adapters. I was going to save $15 and try to use the stock plugs as some have done, but at this point, what’s $15 more really?

for the front and rear doors, I ordered JBL GX963 6x9. I know the front doors only get a mid bass signal, so the tweeters are pretty much useless, but I’m ok with that. I’ve read enough of people saying they helped sound, I’m good with the idea. I was planning to get a set of the Club 9600 components and just not using the tweeter, just to have an uninterrupted 6x9 mid bass speaker, but that pair was nearly double the cost of the 3 ways. If I install the 3 ways and am not happy with the sound, I’ll pull them from the front doors, return them, and go with my original plan. Only concern there is the 9600 are 3ohm, vs the 2.3ohm of the GX. With the oem speakers being 2 ohm, I don’t want a big variance in volume coming from the doors vs everywhere else.

I also ordered 2 sets of 1/4” spacers and adapters for the door speakers. Not sure if I need the spacers for the back, but I can always return them pretty easily if not.

everything except the 3.5” should be here this Friday. The 3.5” will be here next Friday (they weren’t available on prime, unfortunately).

I’m looking forward to getting them in and I’ll come back and give my impressions (and specifically the 3 ways in the front) once they’re in.
 
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bigred90gt

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The 6x9s, spacers and adapters showed up today. Unfortunately, I only ordered 1 pair of spacers, instead of the 2 I thought I did. Fortunately, from what I read, it seems the rear doors do not need spacers and have plenty of room to accommodate aftermarket speakers.

The dash speakers and harness adapters for them are due to arrive next Friday, so I won’t be installing anything till then. I want to do it all at once and just get it done instead of splitting it up.

I’m already leaning toward just biting the bullet and ordering the amp and LC2i just to go ahead and complete everything at once. Still debating it internally, but it’s looking like that’s going to happen. I reckon I’ll give it a bit and see what happens with my job first (may be having hours cut to 24/week, which is gonna suck hard).
 

regal81455

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Good luck on the job front bro - hope that doesn't happen. Ill be following this as I want to upgrade too.
 
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bigred90gt

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Good luck on the job front bro - hope that doesn't happen. Ill be following this as I want to upgrade too.
It’s pretty much happening. I’m working 2 projects now. One has me restricted to 3 days/week, the other is full in as necessary. The fill in work will be finished end of next week.

thanks for the well wishes. It’s been a long time since I’ve had to look for work. Got a kid starting 3rd year of college in 3 weeks (first year away at university). This is the last thing I need right now.
 

regal81455

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Dang - that's rough man. Keep your head up and your feet moving - something will come along. If you don't mind me prying - what is it you do? Maybe take to PM so we're not cluttering up your thread???
 

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The 6x9s, spacers and adapters showed up today. Unfortunately, I only ordered 1 pair of spacers, instead of the 2 I thought I did. Fortunately, from what I read, it seems the rear doors do not need spacers and have plenty of room to accommodate aftermarket speakers.

The dash speakers and harness adapters for them are due to arrive next Friday, so I won’t be installing anything till then. I want to do it all at once and just get it done instead of splitting it up.

I’m already leaning toward just biting the bullet and ordering the amp and LC2i just to go ahead and complete everything at once. Still debating it internally, but it’s looking like that’s going to happen. I reckon I’ll give it a bit and see what happens with my job first (may be having hours cut to 24/week, which is gonna suck hard).

Might wanna try the new kicker key 500-1, you wont need the lc2i as the amp flattens the input signal. Im gonna go this route also but have a custom 12 that fits in same spot.
I was thinking of modding the stock box also, cutting out the indents and fiber glassing the whole thing, would be nice to keep the fold flat.
 
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bigred90gt

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Might wanna try the new kicker key 500-1, you wont need the lc2i as the amp flattens the input signal. Im gonna go this route also but have a custom 12 that fits in same spot.
I was thinking of modding the stock box also, cutting out the indents and fiber glassing the whole thing, would be nice to keep the fold flat.
I have considered (and still am considering) that amp, but I have always been one to match power to speakers. The sub is 300w rms. The key amp at 1ohm is 500w rms, and at 4ohm is 150w rms. The Fosgate amp I’m looking at is 300w rms. The fosgate amp and LC2i combined are roughly the same cost as the key amp.

i’ve never burned up an amp or blown a sub doing this (I’ve owned more sub/amp combos than I have vehicles, and I’ve had 14 vehicles). I’m the kind of person that if something has always worked for me, I see no need to change it, so I’m hesitant to feed the sub with an amp that puts out nearly double the spec’d Power.
 
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bigred90gt

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Dang - that's rough man. Keep your head up and your feet moving - something will come along. If you don't mind me prying - what is it you do? Maybe take to PM so we're not cluttering up your thread???
Quality assurance/quality engineer in the manufacturing and installation side of subsea oil and gas. I work for a major oil company, covering the manufacturers that manufacture our subsea distribution systems. Hydraulic controls, chemical injection, electrical power/signal controls, fiber optic signal and communications. We’re basically the lifeline between the platforms and the wells, hence the product name “umbilical”.
 
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Cableman

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I have considered (and still am considering) that amp, but I have always been one to match power to speakers. The sub is 300w rms. The key amp at 1ohm is 500w rms, and at 4ohm is 150w rms. The Fosgate amp I’m looking at is 300w rms. The fosgate amp and LC2i combined are roughly the same cost as the key amp.

i’ve never burned up an amp or blown a sub doing this (I’ve owned more sub/amp combos than I have vehicles, and I’ve had 14 vehicles). I’m the kind of person that if something has always worked for me, I see no need to change it, so I’m hesitant to feed the sub with an amp that puts out nearly double the spec’d Power.

Im guessing the sub you have wont run the amp in 2ohms?
 
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bigred90gt

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Im guessing the sub you have wont run the amp in 2ohms?
No, it’s a 2ohm DVC sub. So it’s either 4ohm or 1ohm depending on how I wire it.

if I could get it to 2ohm, that would be perfect.
 
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bigred90gt

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I went ahead and installed the 6x9s before the 3.5s arrived. Sounds weird with all of the crisp highs coming from the back. Really makes the dash speakers sound flat and muddied, even more than they did. 3.5s should be here Wednesday.

as for the front doors, I would echo what I’ve read already, probably not worth the money to put 3 ways in. If there was a good 6x9 midbass speaker on the market that was not part of a component system and came in around 2.5ohms, it would be great. I’m probably just going to leave them instead of Messing with putting stock back in and returning them.


the holes on the speakers and spacers didn’t really line up well with the holes on the mounts. It was a bit of work getting the screws in, but they all went in. I’ll update again after I get the 3.5s in. Probably won’t be till Friday, since that’s when my wife goes back to work so I’ll have some free time.

I think I’m gonna go ahead and order the amp and LC2i for the sub. I can already tell with the additional loudness and clarity of the doors and presumably dash, the bass is going to need a kick.
 
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bigred90gt

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I did some driving and listening today, And noticed something strange. When I swapped my 6x9s out, I lost most of my bass. I had it Up pretty loud and actually had to fold up my back seat to make sure the sub was working. I was moving around the cab and if I lean forward toward the dash, the bass is there. Sitting in my regular position, almost no bass. It is the most bizarre thing. It almost has me wanting to pull the 6x9, go back to stock, and just install the 3.5s in the dash for some highs and call it a day. I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of multiple amps and rework g everything (I’ve done that in every vehicle prior, and just really do t want to mess with it in this one).

I’m going to amp the sub and see what happens, but if it’s not significant, the 6x9s will be coming back out.
 
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bigred90gt

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I did some driving and listening today, And noticed something strange. When I swapped my 6x9s out, I lost most of my bass. I had it Up pretty loud and actually had to fold up my back seat to make sure the sub was working. I was moving around the cab and if I lean forward toward the dash, the bass is there. Sitting in my regular position, almost no bass. It is the most bizarre thing. It almost has me wanting to pull the 6x9, go back to stock, and just install the 3.5s in the dash for some highs and call it a day. I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of multiple amps and rework g everything (I’ve done that in every vehicle prior, and just really do t want to mess with it in this one).

I’m going to amp the sub and see what happens, but if it’s not significant, the 6x9s will be coming back out.

anyone experience anything similar when swapping out speakers?
 

Team Horner

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I did some driving and listening today, And noticed something strange. When I swapped my 6x9s out, I lost most of my bass. I had it Up pretty loud and actually had to fold up my back seat to make sure the sub was working. I was moving around the cab and if I lean forward toward the dash, the bass is there. Sitting in my regular position, almost no bass. It is the most bizarre thing. It almost has me wanting to pull the 6x9, go back to stock, and just install the 3.5s in the dash for some highs and call it a day. I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of multiple amps and rework g everything (I’ve done that in every vehicle prior, and just really do t want to mess with it in this one).

I’m going to amp the sub and see what happens, but if it’s not significant, the 6x9s will be coming back out.

Sounds like it could be a phasing issue. Make sure you re-verify that you have all your speakers in-phase (essentially the cones are all moving in the same direction) all positive poles are connected to positives and all negative poles are connected to negatives.

This may still need to be swapped based on frequency response, placement, and distance, but is a good place to start if you feel like some 'fullness' is missing in your sound. If anyone or more speakers is out of phase you can get frequency cancellation at certain frequencies causing that dip in your response.

Worth a try...
 
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bigred90gt

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If any of them are wired out of phase, the metra harness adapters are manufactured incorrectly. I've read about that with one particular harness people used for the dash speakers (harness made for Mazda vehicles, but fits for the dash speakers), but have not heard of the issue with the dodge specific harness adapters used for the doors.

And, I wouldn't think shifting my listening position to over the steering wheel would change the fullness of the sound if it was out of phase either.
 

LoadedExpressRam

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So, a couple of months back, I pulled the alpine sub and replaced it with a Kicker shallow mount 8” sub. I covered most of the interior and exterior of the OeM box with dynomat and stuffed some polyfill in it. It was a bit better than stock originally, but as time has gone on, it is now far better. It hits harder without the muddy kind of “blub” sound of the stock sub. I have never heard the pioneer sub, but I would personally recommend the kicker all day. It’s more expensive, but to me well worth it. At some point, I’ll get an LC2i and an amp for it, but for now it’s good.

that leaves me to the rest of the speakers. The center dash speaker and the ones in the headliner are staying. I just don’t see them as worthwhile to upgrade personally.

For the other 2 dash speakers, I ordered JBL GX302 and the corresponding metra adapters. I was going to save $15 and try to use the stock plugs as some have done, but at this point, what’s $15 more really?

for the front and rear doors, I ordered JBL GX963 6x9. I know the front doors only get a mid bass signal, so the tweeters are pretty much useless, but I’m ok with that. I’ve read enough of people saying they helped sound, I’m good with the idea. I was planning to get a set of the Club 9600 components and just not using the tweeter, just to have an uninterrupted 6x9 mid bass speaker, but that pair was nearly double the cost of the 3 ways. If I install the 3 ways and am not happy with the sound, I’ll pull them from the front doors, return them, and go with my original plan. Only concern there is the 9600 are 3ohm, vs the 2.3ohm of the GX. With the oem speakers being 2 ohm, I don’t want a big variance in volume coming from the doors vs everywhere else.

I also ordered 2 sets of 1/4” spacers and adapters for the door speakers. Not sure if I need the spacers for the back, but I can always return them pretty easily if not.

everything except the 3.5” should be here this Friday. The 3.5” will be here next Friday (they weren’t available on prime, unfortunately).

I’m looking forward to getting them in and I’ll come back and give my impressions (and specifically the 3 ways in the front) once they’re in.
Maybe i missed it but all you did regarding the sub is swap? You didnt upgrade the amp? Sounds like a fairly good deal if just a swap.
 

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I did some driving and listening today, And noticed something strange. When I swapped my 6x9s out, I lost most of my bass. I had it Up pretty loud and actually had to fold up my back seat to make sure the sub was working. I was moving around the cab and if I lean forward toward the dash, the bass is there. Sitting in my regular position, almost no bass. It is the most bizarre thing. It almost has me wanting to pull the 6x9, go back to stock, and just install the 3.5s in the dash for some highs and call it a day. I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of multiple amps and rework g everything (I’ve done that in every vehicle prior, and just really do t want to mess with it in this one).

I’m going to amp the sub and see what happens, but if it’s not significant, the 6x9s will be coming back out.
The reason you lost all your base when you upgraded your speakers is the new speakers have a larger magnet you're still driving the same power do the same size speaker but with the larger magnet so it's actually not going to put out as much Bass because it's not handling the power like the old ones did if you increase the power to them you will gain your base back if you happen to go online and watch Five Star Car Audio they actually did a video talking about this the misconception of new speakers not having as much base as the OEM. As for your amped choice for the sub you'll be way further ahead if you go with the kicker key 501 run it at 1 ohm and 500 watts to your 300 watt sub you will not blow it it's not going to be receiving 500 constantly not to mention you can keep your gains turn back slightly you'll also gain the benefit I'm having the kicker key technology fixing your audio signal and not having to buy another separate piece of equipment such as an lc2i

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bigred90gt

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The reason you lost all your base when you upgraded your speakers is the new speakers have a larger magnet you're still driving the same power do the same size speaker but with the larger magnet so it's actually not going to put out as much Bass because it's not handling the power like the old ones did if you increase the power to them you will gain your base back if you happen to go online and watch Five Star Car Audio they actually did a video talking about this the misconception of new speakers not having as much base as the OEM. As for your amped choice for the sub you'll be way further ahead if you go with the kicker key 501 run it at 1 ohm and 500 watts to your 300 watt sub you will not blow it it's not going to be receiving 500 constantly not to mention you can keep your gains turn back slightly you'll also gain the benefit I'm having the kicker key technology fixing your audio signal and not having to buy another separate piece of equipment such as an lc2i

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I understand that there will be some loss of bass due to underpowering the speakers. What I dont get is how it that would effect the output of the sub. It literally seems as if there is no sub anymore. It is hard to explain I guess, but if you sat in my truck you would think I did not have a sub at all. Whereas before I swapped the door speakers, you would have known immediately that I had upgraded the sub over the stock alpine sub. It is that drastic of a difference.
 
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bigred90gt

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Ordered the amp today.

mom going to go ahead and install the 3.5” tonight, and reinstall the OeM 6x9 in the front doors and see how it sounds. If it’s still puny sounding, I’ll wait until after I install the amp and see how it sounds then before I decide on pulling the back door speakers and reinstalling stockers there.
 
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