How To: Install a 2018 4C (UAQ/UAS) Radio in 2013 - 2017 RAM

[Errol Smith]

There’s absolutely no rush either life needs to come first and we’ll get it done when we get it done
I’m just glad we can work on it and come up with a solid solution

I still think if we could figure out a way to do a hard trigger that would be a better set up even if it needed a relay to come off of that reversing lights

The reverse signal on the CAN-C line seems very repeatable. The main benefit of a hard trigger, though, would be only needing one CAN transceiver instead of two. Of course, using CAN-C you can put this little module anywhere you have access to the CAN line like behind the radio. If we use a hard trigger we'd have to grab it from the BCM in the driver's footwell or from the switch itself on the tranny.


EDIT: Jesus, sorry for spamming posts guys! Didn't realize I was doing that...

 

[likes2build]

@Errol Smith your posts are fascinating. I'm the guy that can build/rebuild any kind of vehicle from a pile of Parts laying on the floor or from the parts department. But when it comes for this modern day BCM /canbus electrical I'm like a deer in the Headlights. That you have the ability to figure out and work around an issue it's been known for quite a while puts me in awe and I personally enjoy following it.

 

[ManualCummins]

The reverse signal on the CAN-C line seems very repeatable. The main benefit of a hard trigger, though, would be only needing one CAN transceiver instead of two. Of course, using CAN-C you can put this little module anywhere you have access to the CAN line like behind the radio. If we use a hard trigger we'd have to grab it from the BCM in the driver's footwell or from the switch itself on the tranny.


EDIT: Jesus, sorry for spamming posts guys! Didn't realize I was doing that...

What other thing that you could do that would be super nice would be add a 10 Second off Delay
So the back up camera would stay on for 10 seconds after we shifted out of reverse

I know this was a factory option but because were using a workaround solution He won’t be able to access it from the radio

 

[Errol Smith]

@Errol Smith your posts are fascinating. I'm the guy that can build/rebuild any kind of vehicle from a pile of Parts laying on the floor or from the parts department. But when it comes for this modern day BCM /canbus electrical I'm like a deer in the Headlights. That you have the ability to figure out and work around an issue it's been known for quite a while puts me in awe and I personally enjoy following it.

Thanks for that, bud. Believe it or not, I'm a mechanical engineer so this isn't exactly my strong suit but I've spent my career in robotics and love a challenge. It's been a good opportunity to learn about CAN-BUS stuff and helps anyone with a G56 who might want to do this conversion in the future.

 

[Errol Smith]

What other thing that you could do that would be super nice would be add a 10 Second off Delay
So the back up camera would stay on for 10 seconds after we shifted out of reverse

I know this was a factory option but because were using a workaround solution He won’t be able to access it from the radio

That wouldn't be too hard to add, actually. What's weird is my backup lines disappear after the 10 second delay but when I swap in a 2018 camera the lines stay all the time. This function seems to be part of the camera and not the radio.

 

[Mpgrimm2]

@Errol Smith
As L2B said, keep on trucking; this issue doesn't affect many people, but the ones that run into it will appreciate it.
I'm good at wiring and documentation but suck at programming and can't help much beyond some basics (did manage to build an Arduino chicken coop controller once, took me 2.5 months).

M² Mods.

 

[ManualCummins]

That wouldn't be too hard to add, actually. What's weird is my backup lines disappear after the 10 second delay but when I swap in a 2018 camera the lines stay all the time. This function seems to be part of the camera and not the radio.

100% the grid lines are a function of the actual camera
The Radio Basically only plays the
Image
The camera always has power

Everybody that has a 16 or newer doesn’t need to swap out the camera only the 13-15 I already swap my out
Just so I can use it going forward over 12 miles an hour

 

[ManualCummins]

Are you using constant power
Or is Swtched
There’s no switch power behind the radio
I was just kind of wondering about battery drain

 

[Errol Smith]

Are you using constant power
Or is Swtched
There’s no switch power behind the radio
I was just kind of wondering about battery drain

Right now it's powered off the USB port but could run from either a switched source or hot all the time. The microcontroller draws 100mA at full speed but is sitting basically idle when the truck is off. I'll measure current draw, though, and make sure. I know there are ways to put the thing to sleep if needed so I can look at implementing that as well.

 

[ManualCummins]

Switching it to switch power
Might fix picture not coming on When you start it in reverse

 

[ManualCummins]

bought the center jumpseat
From laq out of a 2019
That had a UAS so I got it with the hub and the updated insert
For 100 bucks
I read drilled all the mounting bolts and moved it back a half an inch and it clears the stick perfectly

 

[Mpgrimm2]

....

Make sure your 2018 jumpseat/usb hub is NOT constantly illuminated with the key off as it may drain the battery. This is a known issue with the console lid swap ... Depends on the year/config of your truck.... You may have to remove the hub illumination wire from a connector if it happens... +12v B+ on earlier trucks). See post 5 for issue with console lid.

M² Mods.

 

[ManualCummins]

They cut the plug off so I had to swap over the wiring harness anyway lol
So the illumination wire is not connected pin 2
Even though I do notice that it does
Although it does seem to illuminate
But only when the key is on And the door is open
But thanks for the heads up anyway

 

[ManualCummins]

I think there’s a small issue
Because I have a ra4 right now
I may put it on switched power

 

[ManualCummins]

So I did a little research and figured out if you hook the illumination pin
To the hot from the cigarette lighter
And put the fuse in spot number 91 everything will work As intended

 

[CoZo6]

Make sure your 2018 jumpseat/usb hub is NOT constantly illuminated with the key off as it may drain the battery. This is a known issue with the console lid swap ... Depends on the year/config of your truck.... You may have to remove the hub illumination wire from a connector if it happens... +12v B+ on earlier trucks). See post 5 for issue with console lid.

M² Mods.

I’ve installed the 2018 console in my 2017 months ago and do recognize that the panel light is still on after the truck is off. No problem with a dead battery yet, but.... Not having a good handle on cutting certain wires and splicing another from another “source”, it would be most helpful for any other member who has done this to do a few pictures and describe your procedure for even an old guy can follow. Rest assured I’d appreciate it. I think you have given me another option in the past, but a successful method would be helpful.

 

[ManualCummins]

If you’re running a complete 18 wiring harness and consule or jump seat
You need to hook the orange wire
With a gray stripe to the purple wire underneath the driver seat as shown in the photo if u are runing a UAs/Uaq
However if you’re running an RA radio
You need to hook both the red wire and the orange wire To the purple

and then move the fuse to slot 91 from 90
Basically this uses the ignition on as the illumination feed


If you’re running just a replacement lid
You need to disconnect the orange wire
At the plug for the lid and run it to Switched hot to there Pin 7

If you just want the illumination to work and you’re running a hub adapter
you have to take the purple wire from the cigarette lighter plug by the hub and put it into Pin 2 of the hub adapter which will be empty

For somebody says about the wires just being twisted together that was only temporary to test it I soldered them now

mr. Grimm you may want to pin this to post 5

 

[CoZo6]

If you’re running a complete 18 wiring harness and consule or jump seat
You need to hook the orange wire
With a gray stripe to the purple wire underneath the driver seat as shown in the photo if u are runing a UAs/Uaq
However if you’re running an RA radio
You need to hook both the red wire and the orange wire To the purple

and then move the fuse to slot 91 from 90
Basically this uses the ignition on as the illumination feed

If you just want the illumination to work and you’re running a hub adapter
you have to take the purple wire from the cigarette lighter plug by the hub and put it into Pin 2 of the hub adapter which will be empty

For somebody says about the wires just being twisted together that was only temporary to test it I soldered them now

mr. Grimm you may want to pin this to post 5
View attachment 223285

Thank you. Yes, I have a UAQ so I’ll give it a look see and give er a go!

 

[Errol Smith]

If you want to send me the T-harness, I'll build one of these around it for you. Right now I'm tapping into the OBD port but in line to the radio would be pretty sweet.

I've found 2 problems with it so far:
1) If you shift to reverse then use the soft key (the X) to turn the display off then shifting to reverse no longer causes the backup camera to turn on. I can replicate this behavior in AlfaOBD but it's fixed by reconnecting. I have to fiddle with my code to see if I can fix this.
2) If you start the truck while in reverse, it doesn't want to work. I also think I can fix this in my code but am not sure.

Right now I use the CAN message for reverse/not reverse to trigger the messages to turn on the backup camera. If the reverse messages aren't reliable enough, I'll have to tap directly into the reverse switch.

@Roman217 has been helping me troubleshoot the above, but I've been so damned busy at work this week I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.

So thanks to @Roman217 and @ManualCummins issue #2 is resolved! Powering off of an accessory run circuit rather than a full-time hot circuit fixed this.

Since there's no key switched power behind the radio that might be out so the BCM might be the next best thing. I'll fiddle with it some more.

 

[ManualCummins]

If you set your fuse correctly you could power off of one of the power ports
I setting it to power only when the key is on in the fuse box