How to Fluid Film your truck

[U&A]

Wow nothing like putting a sponge in a rust prone area........

Soak that crack with a penetrating oil and then hit it with FF right after. The penetrating oil will pull it in. It wont rust id you do this asap (newer truck) and keep at it


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[2966]

Wow nothing like putting a sponge in a rust prone area........

no kidding .....maybe so ur truck rusts out in 8yrs or so and u buy new one again???

 

[Hemi395]

no kidding .....maybe so ur truck rusts out in 8yrs or so and u buy new one again???

Yup. Get it thru the warranty period and force you to buy a new one.

And I love these Ford guys that think aluminum won't rust [emoji23]

 

[2966]

Yup. Get it thru the warranty period and force you to buy a new one.

And I love these Ford guys that think aluminum won't rust [emoji23]

yea...funny we use oil to kill tick and rust...

 

[U&A]

Yup. Get it thru the warranty period and force you to buy a new one.

And I love these Ford guys that think aluminum won't rust [emoji23]

Ever seen the all aluminum on a firetruck that is in the salt belt.

Once it starts It oxidizes FASTER than steel.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

Ever seen the all aluminum on a firetruck that is in the salt belt.

Once it starts It oxidizes FASTER than steel.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Yup[emoji23]

 

[U&A]

Yup[emoji23]

LMAO

Im glad the ranger is steel. [emoji16]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

Years ago my folks had a sailboat with a retractable keel that was supported by an aluminum bracket that was sort of a C channel shape. It was a good 1/4in thick, if not 3/8. It had a rope next to it that was regularly soaked in salt water that sometimes rested on the aluminum bracket depending on how low the keel was.

Where the rope was literally ate thru the bracket to the point they had to have a new piece welded on.

When Ford announced they were making their truck bodies aluminum this was the first thing I thought of...

 

[U&A]

Years ago my folks had a sailboat with a retractable keel that was supported by an aluminum bracket that was sort of a C channel shape. It was a good 1/4in thick, if not 3/8. It had a rope next to it that was regularly soaked in salt water that sometimes rested on the aluminum bracket depending on how low the keel was.

Where the rope was literally ate thru the bracket to the point they had to have a new piece welded on.

When Ford announced they were making their truck bodies aluminum this was the first thing I thought of...

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Gus0316]

Aluminum dislikes being bolted to steel.
All the Military applications I saw used teflon gaskets between the two.
Galvanic Corrosion sets in fast.
Aluminum does have a natural barrier against corrosion but if any mechanical means removes that "skin" it's over fairly fast.

I remember the door sill plates on my old '79 IH Scout just ate away, once the filiform corrosion set in and ate the paint from steel around the stainless screw points and edges it was over. Wish I knew about FF then. But I did beat on the old Scout pretty hard and still have it lol

Been a busy couple weeks here guys but I am still going to go after pics. Had to put on hold for a minute.

 

[Gus0316]

I went through a Gallon (whole truck) in about 2 hours once started using a 60 Gallon 11.5 CFM Compressor and 8 Rattle Cans. (Used in the doors, hood, inside fender flares, tailgate etc.) I mixed the FF using a drywall mud mixer on my Milwauke drill after the gallon sit in hot water before opening. It was dripping out on the ground several days later. Check your spray pattern and adjust if needed. I would say if your Compressor is small then you will see a difference in the spray pattern when pressure drops. Equals more pause time. I used the kit from Amazon for Woolwax. I did think about switching to a 3/8" hose but it wasn't seemingly needed and the kit worked well. Just be careful not to kink the long hose.

 

[Gus0316]

To be sure 2 Hours only was the 1 Gallon. It went fast. The prep time, rattle cans etc and re assembly was time intensive. Me being Me I took my time over the weekend. Bought new hardware where needed. And my total truck down time was three days. But hey I'm a detail oriented Ex Military Guy with other things to drive.

 

[canadiankodiak700]

Soak that crack with a penetrating oil and then hit it with FF right after. The penetrating oil will pull it in. It wont rust id you do this asap (newer truck) and keep at it


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

No need to use penetrating oil...FF will do exactly that. It creeps right in

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[U&A]

No need to use penetrating oil...FF will do exactly that. It creeps right in

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I hear ya.

Just give my opinion, FF is far from a penitrating oil.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Hemi395]

Update on Woolwax application after 1 year

 

[chrisbh17]

Getting lazy (and sore and slow) in my old age, Im going to this process:

Alternating years, I will do a full (under body, frame, wheel well liners removed, etc) spray with NHOil or Corrosion Free

During "odd" years I will shoot through the rear taillight openings to get the rear wheel well. Through the plugs in the lower A pillars to get into the front wheel wells. Through each "ridge" in the underside of the bed. Through the plugs in the B and C pillars to get into the rockers. n the front and rear suspension just by kneeling down and spraying at them.

Just getting too much to roll around under the truck all day on a creeper and dont want to pay $280 for someone to do the same (or worse) job than my "easy" years.

 

[PoMansRam]

That's how I roll with my yearly re-applies.

You might catch some areas you missed the previous time and skip over areas that have a lot of build-up.

That's the beauty of the oil type sprays. Once they get some dirt mixed into the mix, the product sticks and builds up. It's a greasy mess over time, but better to deal with than rust and stuck bolts.

Even if I pull a wheel off for brake work or tire rotation, if I've got the time, I'll grab my spray gun kit of FF or WW or an aerosol can of FF and catch areas I can get it.

 

[chrisbh17]

That's how I roll with my yearly re-applies.

You might catch some areas you missed the previous time and skip over areas that have a lot of build-up.

That's the beauty of the oil type sprays. Once they get some dirt mixed into the mix, the product sticks and builds up. It's a greasy mess over time, but better to deal with than rust and stuck bolts.

Even if I pull a wheel off for brake work or tire rotation, if I've got the time, I'll grab my spray gun kit of FF or WW or an aerosol can of FF and catch areas I can get it.

Reminds me....if you can safely do it, always hit the back plate of the brakes, especially the rears. Those "blocks" are raw, so surface rust shows up, but in the future having them as rust free as possible will become important.

The rear dust shields on my old Frontier rusted out and you cannot find them anymore (used, everyone else's rusted too...new is no longer available, not even aftermarket).

I usually aim the sprayer parallel with the shields/backing plate so the overspray just about touches them while spraying on the control arms, fuel tank, etc.

 

[PoMansRam]

For sure on the backing plates and dust shields. I hit the rears inside and out on my 2019 Ram 1500 a couple weeks ago when I pulled the rear brakes apart to slather some never-seize on the parking brake actuators. Lots of raw steel and cast parts in there that were disturbingly rusted on my 2019 at 20K miles.

 

[Hemi395]

Every year I do my truck, my father's Pathfinder, and my father in laws Frontier and this year bring the 4th year I did my truck and the 3rd year I did their vehicles. This time it was a very light application on all of them. The high wash areas needed touching up but everywhere else was still soaked with FF with a coating of dirt.