- Joined
- Jul 17, 2019
- Posts
- 547
- Reaction score
- 483
- Location
- stl mo
- Ram Year
- 2017 Ram 1500 Express Quad Cab 3.6L 4x4 20x9 Wheels
- Engine
- 3.6
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Those are your custom user settings (sound horn when lock doors, etc). Put the truck in park.
The canbus wires from the radio can only be accessed at the security gateway module connectors, not the junction blocks that the kaodtech harness accesses. Access to the radio is the only difference between the two.OK, what's the difference between the two cables? One doesn't access the Radio Head Features? Or is there more?
The canbus wires from the radio can only be accessed at the security gateway module connectors, not the junction blocks that the kaodtech harness accesses. Access to the radio is the only difference between the two.
That's correct, the Kaodtech (Deereguy) bypass method leaves the radio and it's cellular connection behind the Security Gateway to prevent the possibility of someone hacking/taking control of the truck systems (accelerator, brakes, door locks, etc) via the radio as was demonstrated on the 13-17 FCA vehicles. This is why FCA installed the gateway.Oh ok. So that's what you were saying when I asked about it.
Makes sense because I tired to access the radio and it would not connect.
Is that because I have 18 and it's locked out even using the Kaodtech by pass?
I tested it out. I think MP3s sounds much clearer with it disabled. That's how I'm going to leave it.
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2015 Ram 2500 AlphaRex Nova headlights keep getting left turn signal out. I have set everything to led and cleared the codes. They work for a while then boom hyper flash and turn signal light out message. Any advice?
Yikes not good.I have the same issue with my custom alpharex g1 headlights. I haven't found a solution yet
2018 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
1990 5.9L 12v Cummins W250
I have the same issue with my custom alpharex g1 headlights. I haven't found a solution yet
2018 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
1990 5.9L 12v Cummins W250
One "solution" may be using a cluster from a 2013. I noticed when testing clusters that when I replaced my 2013 cluster with a 2019 and 2018 cluster I received light out messages that I normally never see. I suspect the 2013 cluster is slightly less capable then 2014+ clusters and doesn't have as many warnings programmed to display.Yikes not good.
2015 Ram 2500 AlphaRex Nova headlights keep getting left turn signal out. I have set everything to led and cleared the codes. They work for a while then boom hyper flash and turn signal light out message. Any advice?
One "solution" may be using a cluster from a 2013. I noticed when testing clusters that when I replaced my 2013 cluster with a 2019 and 2018 cluster I received light out messages that I normally never see. I suspect the 2013 cluster is slightly less capable then 2014+ clusters and doesn't have as many warnings programmed to display.
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As @1500ram12 mentioned, I have a similar issue.
Mine only occurs if I have the turn signal engaged and the auto-headlights turn on at the same time. The signals will blink a few times then throw up the error and hyperflash. Sometimes it clears up by itself, other times it does not. Most of the time it only happens with the left signal on.
Its not really that bad since it only happens under a certain condition...I can usually avoid the condition altogether.
The only reason I can think of is that when the headlights go from DRLs to full-on-headlights, they "blank" the power between the two modes, which drops power just long enough to make the truck think the signal is out. It might be a timing thing (i.e. if that blank happens while the signal is either on or off). In my case, my AlphaRex headlights are modified such that the upper and lower LEDs serve as DRLs, but the lower LED also does sequential and switchback for a signal. So maybe the truck thinks its a DRL but when the headlights come on and the DRLs go off, maybe it drops power to what it thinks is a DRL, but is actually my turn signal which then triggers the error.
I was thinking of putting either a resistor to make the truck see a load, or a smoothing capacitor to try and save some "reserve" power for when the headlights switch on.
I believe mine only occurs when the headlights are on (99.9% of the time are on auto) and using the left signal. But doesn't happen always. Not sure if related to a certain number of uses or x amount of duration of use. But once it happens I just leave the left signal on until the hyper flash stops. Usually under 10 seconds.
2018 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
1990 5.9L 12v Cummins W250
I've heard that but it works in my 2014 Express...one thing that's off is you can't add the settings menu to a 2013 cluster and I think Turn by Turn graphics are missing/corrupted when getting NAV prompts from a UAQ.You'd be solving one issue and creating another. 13s use a different frequency for the tpms. So you'd lose that feature
2018 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman
1990 5.9L 12v Cummins W250
I've heard that but it works in my 2014 Express...one thing that's off is you can't add the settings menu to a 2013 cluster and I think Turn by Turn graphics are missing/corrupted when getting NAV prompts from a UAQ.
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The 13 cluster TPMS should work in the 14 to 17 trucks. I have a 13 in my 14 and it works fine. The problem is when you put a 14 up cluster in a 13 truck. This is when the TPMS doesn't work properly. At least this is what I've experienced in many of the trucks I have upgraded. I have no idea why it doesn't seem to affect them the other way.I've heard that but it works in my 2014 Express...one thing that's off is you can't add the settings menu to a 2013 cluster and I think Turn by Turn graphics are missing/corrupted when getting NAV prompts from a UAQ.
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I was able to stop the problem with my switch backs shutting down park side by using 300 ohm resistors. 2 watt is big enough but I used a 10w metal cased for the extra heat dissipation ability.Mine used to reset itself pretty quickly, but some point along the way that stopped happening. I now just flick the headlights off with the signal on until the hyperflash goes away.
I thought mine worked a little better once I used more sane voltages for the LEDs (12V instead of 14V or something like that), but again that eventually became short lived.
I know the answer is probably a resistor, but and too lazy to try and find the bare minimum amount of resistance necessary to trick it. I surely dont want a huge honkin generic load resistor if its not necessary.