Pktatum95
Junior Member
Hey there. Have a question guys. Wanting some of yalls opinions.
I have a 2017 RAM 3500 6.4 hemi DRW Reg cab with 4.10 and 66rfe. 209k on the clock.
Bought it brand new with 8 miles on it (I put 6 of those test driving it)
Lifter failure at 93k. New long block courtesy of FCA.
No issues with new engine. Ran mobil 1 0-40 and m1-113a filters up to 200k miles. Recently switched to redline 5-30 and still using m1-113a filters. Change air filter every other oil change. Do oil changes religiously at 4-5k miles. Tranny fluid and rearend fluid maint regularly.
I use it as my hotshot truck. It does not move unless it’s hooked to my gooseneck. So 100% towing. Either unloaded, or loaded (up to 16k, although that’s rare. 75% of loads are you 11/12k range- thats including my 5600# goose). I run about 85-100k miles a year. So give or take right at 8k miles a month. So it’s a pretty specific application obviously. The trucks got plenty of power, no complaints bout that. Tranny and shift points could be better. Especially holding gears. I’m just interested in maximizing fuel mileage. Even 1-1.5 mpg for me is huge considering the sheer volume of fuel and miles I burn thru. I’m at about 9400 gallons of fuel for the year already. So literally increasing 1-1.5/2 mpg would literally equal= 6k-8k+ Savings a year for me. I run it cab and chassis, with a 100 gallon drag up tank on it. So I buy 132 gallons of fuel at a time. (Really makes a difference when u can find it at 2.97 and fill up, and pass 3.05-3.50/gal for the next 900 miles or so.) saves a lot of money in the long run. Anyway, completely bone stock. Everythin. All I’ve done to it is plug a scan gauge 2 into it so I can have my digital Speedo plus monitor my EOT, TFT, WT, and IA/ VLTS.
Usually get round 10-10.5 mpg with empty goose- (goose weighs 5600 empty)
Usually round 7.5-8.3 mpg when loaded with average load (5-7k, +5600# goose)
Empty weight- 12,860. (Truck and trailer)
That’s with all my tools needed for the road, duffel bag, me, my bags laptop ect, empty trailer, all chains binders straps bungees tarps spares ect. Fully operational empty weight.
Average loaded weight- prolly between 16-22k (truck and trailer plus load)
I try to stay round 63-66/67 as I know speed kills fuel mileage. Feather in and out of stops. Stay off that brake pedal as much as possible. The usually truck driver/ hotshot commen sense driving to make money.
Keep tires at 80 psi. Run 87 octane.
I’m really light (the truck) seeing as how it’s a regular cab, and I’m runnin it cab and chassis. No extra weight at all. Stock wheels. Stock tires. Nothin aftermarket.
Would y’all suggest a switch to 4.56 gears?
Contacted jay greene and had a good convo with him. He suggested staying stock as far as tuning goes for my application.
What else would y’all suggest?
Any questions just ask.
“Get a diesel” yeah yeah I know. I’m makin work what I got right now ****. Wife’s 8 mos pregnant with our first boy, along with the other kids and her bein off work, tryna maximize profits without doin any major moves right now.
I have a 2017 RAM 3500 6.4 hemi DRW Reg cab with 4.10 and 66rfe. 209k on the clock.
Bought it brand new with 8 miles on it (I put 6 of those test driving it)
Lifter failure at 93k. New long block courtesy of FCA.
No issues with new engine. Ran mobil 1 0-40 and m1-113a filters up to 200k miles. Recently switched to redline 5-30 and still using m1-113a filters. Change air filter every other oil change. Do oil changes religiously at 4-5k miles. Tranny fluid and rearend fluid maint regularly.
I use it as my hotshot truck. It does not move unless it’s hooked to my gooseneck. So 100% towing. Either unloaded, or loaded (up to 16k, although that’s rare. 75% of loads are you 11/12k range- thats including my 5600# goose). I run about 85-100k miles a year. So give or take right at 8k miles a month. So it’s a pretty specific application obviously. The trucks got plenty of power, no complaints bout that. Tranny and shift points could be better. Especially holding gears. I’m just interested in maximizing fuel mileage. Even 1-1.5 mpg for me is huge considering the sheer volume of fuel and miles I burn thru. I’m at about 9400 gallons of fuel for the year already. So literally increasing 1-1.5/2 mpg would literally equal= 6k-8k+ Savings a year for me. I run it cab and chassis, with a 100 gallon drag up tank on it. So I buy 132 gallons of fuel at a time. (Really makes a difference when u can find it at 2.97 and fill up, and pass 3.05-3.50/gal for the next 900 miles or so.) saves a lot of money in the long run. Anyway, completely bone stock. Everythin. All I’ve done to it is plug a scan gauge 2 into it so I can have my digital Speedo plus monitor my EOT, TFT, WT, and IA/ VLTS.
Usually get round 10-10.5 mpg with empty goose- (goose weighs 5600 empty)
Usually round 7.5-8.3 mpg when loaded with average load (5-7k, +5600# goose)
Empty weight- 12,860. (Truck and trailer)
That’s with all my tools needed for the road, duffel bag, me, my bags laptop ect, empty trailer, all chains binders straps bungees tarps spares ect. Fully operational empty weight.
Average loaded weight- prolly between 16-22k (truck and trailer plus load)
I try to stay round 63-66/67 as I know speed kills fuel mileage. Feather in and out of stops. Stay off that brake pedal as much as possible. The usually truck driver/ hotshot commen sense driving to make money.
Keep tires at 80 psi. Run 87 octane.
I’m really light (the truck) seeing as how it’s a regular cab, and I’m runnin it cab and chassis. No extra weight at all. Stock wheels. Stock tires. Nothin aftermarket.
Would y’all suggest a switch to 4.56 gears?
Contacted jay greene and had a good convo with him. He suggested staying stock as far as tuning goes for my application.
What else would y’all suggest?
Any questions just ask.
“Get a diesel” yeah yeah I know. I’m makin work what I got right now ****. Wife’s 8 mos pregnant with our first boy, along with the other kids and her bein off work, tryna maximize profits without doin any major moves right now.
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