Levelling or 3” lift that rides as close to stock as possible

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dieseldave

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Very nice looking good! if you had a shop do it and they didn’t break in and just did the alignment right after keep an eye out on the camber View attachment 483953of your front tires I’d hate to see them get trashed in six months like what happened to me with my kt0s. You always need to break in your new suspension before alignment.
How many miles for the break in are you suggesting
 

Keifus

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How many miles for the break in are you suggesting
At least 30 miles or so in town. If the shop that did the lift did your alignment they shouldn’t have a problem checking it for free. Here's a copy of mine after driving two weeks of installing the lift and day of new tires and wheels 11/4/2120220127_092019.jpg
 

j-b

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I was thinking about this kit but going up 4 inches just seems like it's going to be a headache without being done properly. Driveline spacers and all of that definitely need to be considered. I mean the ready lift gives you the look, but no longevity.

For the price difference, you should see if you can get your money back and go with Superlift 4 inch.

4" Lift Kit - 12-18 (19-21 Clc) Ram 1500 4WD - w/ Bilstein Frt Struts/Rr Shocks
K1019B

From any of the research I have done, this is the most budget-friendly, and I do believe they are the suppliers of the RAM MOPAR OEM 4 inch lift or Extremely similar.
The Superlift or Zone is what I would go for on anything higher than 2.8" of lift.

You are correct. They are the ones who make the "mopar" lifts.
 
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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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Very nice looking good! if you had a shop do it and they didn’t break in and just did the alignment right after keep an eye out on the camber View attachment 483953of your front tires I’d hate to see them get trashed in six months like what happened to me with my kt0s. You always need to break in your new suspension before alignment.
I’ll watch out for this for sure, but the springs weren’t changed, so there really isn’t anything to ‘break in’ right? Maybe waiting a week then doing an alignment would work in that case but, but we shouldn’t be driving around without an alignment after a big suspension change either I think.
 

Keifus

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I’ll watch out for this for sure, but the springs weren’t changed, so there really isn’t anything to ‘break in’ right? Maybe waiting a week then doing an alignment would work in that case but, but we shouldn’t be driving around without an alignment after a big suspension change either I think.
I just used 3” & 2” spacers on the ram and that’s all. Sorry I was saying break in when I was meaning waiting a couple of days for suspension settling before you do it.
 
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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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Just an update, I finally got the chance to take the truck in the highway today, around 100 - 115km/hr and to my surprise I didn’t feel any crazy amount of vibration or hum, noise etc. from the LT tires, alignment is good and straight, and these new larger sidewall tires are actually even MORE quiet and smooth over bumps on the highway than my passenger stock sized Toyo’s were.

As well since the speedometer is slightly off now, it still holds 8th gear as it should but actually runs at a little lower rpm at cruising flow of traffic speed, so there’s a slight improvement in drone/hum from the Flowmaster 50HD and 3.92 gears (which I’m guessing is actually working something like 3.72 gears now approx. due to the increased wheel/tire diameter)

So overall very pleased with the lift, tire choice and alignment.
 

lukeadamson88

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Hey guys,

I put the bilstein's in at 2.8
The front of the truck is 1 inch higher than the back now. Definitely notice the tennis ball effect that has been mentioned. How do I get rid of this? Correct the rake with some spacers in the back? Or just lower the strut level which will cost me another shop rate to re-set them to a lower setting?

Ride quality seems ok but super bouncy.
Maybe just give it a week to settle out?
 

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kurek

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Hey guys,

I put the bilstein's in at 2.8
The front of the truck is 1 inch higher than the back now. Definitely notice the tennis ball effect that has been mentioned. How do I get rid of this? Correct the rake with some spacers in the back? Or just lower the strut level which will cost me another shop rate to re-set them to a lower setting?

Ride quality seems ok but super bouncy.
Maybe just give it a week to settle out?

You installed the lower spring seat upside down. If you paid a shop to do that, that's their mess-up and they should fix it free of charge.
 

lukeadamson88

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Yepp I see it now. They have warranty on their work up to 20k kms. Great catch though I didn't even think to look at that!!

Thank you!
 

Quick_Shifter

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Yepp I see it now. They have warranty on their work up to 20k kms. Great catch though I didn't even think to look at that!!

Thank you!
LOL That is waaaaaaaayyyyyyy above 2.8"

The directions come in the box? so they had 2 sets
 
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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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Good catch on the upside down spring perch.

I believe even at 2.8” setting you might be a little higher in the front than the rear though, typically from my understanding 2.5” front lift is the highest you should go if you want the truck levelled out. Anything higher and you might want to do at least a 1” spacer/lift or 1” lift springs in the rear to keep at least a .5” rake and not have the front of the truck look nose high.

Just a thought as well, check your balljoint angles up front, if you’re getting in the 2.5” - 3” lift height range, you might really want to think about putting in new angle correct control arms (something like the Zone, Readylift, Rough Country, etc.)
 

lukeadamson88

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Good catch on the upside down spring perch.

I believe even at 2.8” setting you might be a little higher in the front than the rear though, typically from my understanding 2.5” front lift is the highest you should go if you want the truck levelled out. Anything higher and you might want to do at least a 1” spacer/lift or 1” lift springs in the rear to keep at least a .5” rake and not have the front of the truck look nose high.

Just a thought as well, check your balljoint angles up front, if you’re getting in the 2.5” - 3” lift height range, you might really want to think about putting in new angle correct control arms (something like the Zone, Readylift, Rough Country, etc.)
I have the stock 1 inch extra height in the rear that comes with the HD springs. Also I did put on the rough country 3 inch lift forged aluminum UCAs

Should sit pretty well perfect once the springs are seated correctly. I measured 26.5 front and 25 rear from center of hub. I personally like the look of zero rake but will see how it works out tomorrow. Could get the eibach springs to replace my OEM in the rear to get that extra inch if towing isn't great.
 

dieseldave

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Hey guys,

I put the bilstein's in at 2.8
The front of the truck is 1 inch higher than the back now. Definitely notice the tennis ball effect that has been mentioned. How do I get rid of this? Correct the rake with some spacers in the back? Or just lower the strut level which will cost me another shop rate to re-set them to a lower setting?

Ride quality seems ok but super bouncy.
Maybe just give it a week to settle out?
What was the shop rate $ ?
 

j-b

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Hey guys,

I put the bilstein's in at 2.8
The front of the truck is 1 inch higher than the back now. Definitely notice the tennis ball effect that has been mentioned. How do I get rid of this? Correct the rake with some spacers in the back? Or just lower the strut level which will cost me another shop rate to re-set them to a lower setting?

Ride quality seems ok but super bouncy.
Maybe just give it a week to settle out?

LOL That is waaaaaaaayyyyyyy above 2.8"

The directions come in the box? so they had 2 sets


Wow......... these shops are getting worse and worse. you're probably sitting at 5" in the front now. I would demand they fix it asap! I'd also be tempted to get a refund on the install cost.
 

Quick_Shifter

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Wow......... these shops are getting worse and worse. you're probably sitting at 5" in the front now. I would demand they fix it asap! I'd also be tempted to get a refund on the install cost.
Unfortunately I’d like to say I was surprised. Just think how many people don’t post a picture and are driving around
 

lukeadamson88

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What was the shop rate $ ?
The shop rate was $112 total came out to $565. I would do it myself but don't have the proper spring tools and I thought these guys are licensed mechanics. They even called me and mentioned they had 4 other mechanics look at it and assured me they were correct (BACKWARDS) I just said turn them anyways because I know you're wrong.
Long story short, I got a phone call back with an apology and trucks waiting to be picked up with complementary alignment.
 

Quick_Shifter

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The shop rate was $112 total came out to $565. I would do it myself but don't have the proper spring tools and I thought these guys are licensed mechanics. They even called me and mentioned they had 4 other mechanics look at it and assured me they were correct (BACKWARDS) I just said turn them anyways because I know you're wrong.
Long story short, I got a phone call back with an apology and trucks waiting to be picked up with complementary alignment.
Unfortunately sometimes you have to print the instructions off the internet and leave them taped to your steering wheel. Im glad they got you straitened out
 

lukeadamson88

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Appreciate all of the help and knowledge on the FORUM. Love the setup, much better than stock. Roads in Canada are full of potholes and frost heaves. Rides over everything without rattling you out of the window. As you can see, the truck gets used.
 

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El_Lobo_Gris1500C

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So it’s been just over 1 month since the Readylift 4” SST lift kit install, and new wheels on 35” 12.5 tires and so far it’s been great. No creaking, noises, not super harsh ride, pretty close to stock I’d say, the rear Bilstein shocks seem to handle large dips and bumps well, more so at higher speeds (roads an highways) and around town isn’t much different than stock, maybe as many have said it feels more ‘planted’ or solid and assured feeling now.

Only issue I’ve had is that they installed the rear shock top mount extension pieces on the outside of the frame area instead of inside as they were supposed to be. I swapped them out to the correct side of the frame myself, easy enough to do in about 15 mins myself.

Over all I am very happy with this lift, I know a lot of people will say “should have done this - should have gone with that” blah blah blah, but are they actually PAYING for it? Paying for the kit or the labor? No, so in the end it comes down to what you want vs what you can afford vs what is available at the time (back orders, delays due to Covid etc.) and it’s YOUR truck, you do what you’re comfortable with. Sure single dudes can afford to go get Fox shocks, 8” lift with full diff drop brackets etc. etc. but I have bills, 3 kids to feed, other things in life to take care of so the SST 4” Readylift kit fit perfect for what I was looking for, and I’m 100% happy with it.
 
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Michael

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deciding on 2.5 or 2.8 would depends on how your truck sits now. I measured all four wheel wells and decided to go with 2.8. Here is a pic of my truck at 2.8 with the stock 17“ wheels and tires to show what it looks like. I’m giving a before and then after pics.
96B8DE6C-CAF0-4395-B2BB-2B0FA74026D7.jpeg
B7D06D0F-3D48-407F-8EAC-C18D86EA8D51.jpeg
The 5100’s gave it a firmer, not harsher, ride that I like over the oem units. Then when I went from the passenger tires that came on it to truck tires the ride got firmer again because the sidewalls of the tires have less flex in them, but can handle loads much better.
 

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